zKars

someone forgot to pay da ISP I think.. That site is club owned.

Soon as I get home I'll let you know. Two days and counting. I have lots of cylinders and gas doors with latch holes to test out. There are cylinders with three or fours tabs that align the thing in the holes in the doors (or gas covers!) , early had 3, later 4, but a slot can be added to a hole or a tab ground off a cylinder. No biggy.

That gas hatch door look looks exactly like a door lock cylinder. Only thing unique is the bracket on the end that engages the bracket on the body. Should be dead easy to duplicate that.

I think I still have it. Will look when I get back.

Great idea! I had previously gone part way down this path, but got stuck when the only 1157 bulbs I found were too tall to fit in the socket with the lens on, especially LED bulbs. Would love to get a part number and source for the short 1157 bulbs you used. thanks.

Gav, I believe a door lock is a more complex solution as you would need to drill a hole (71 and later here) in the door and add (weld, drill, fab etc) a loop to the body side where the latch would engage. Also sourcing the keyed latch is a issue here.

Three guesses who has some old stock couplers. Hockey pucks are also the exact correct width and diameter. Just need holes the right size to seat the metal tubes. I'll work on this when I get home. Dang this is a wide country....

The links went broken during site upgrades quite a while ago. Dave Irwin recently requested they stay broken as he now wishes to protect that "intellectual property" after several of us requested the links be re established. You could contact him directly and see what he says. He has a private website where he sells his items.

Finally! Will send you a PM with contact details.

Zup sorry to hear about your son. Thinking about you and praying for a good outcome. Sounds like he's in the best hands possible.

Some "facts" well maybe opinions from my recent view of the market. The restoration costs of that car, if you have it done by a professional, to concourse level, will leave you with a beautiful car but will be worth much less at resale than it cost you to restore. It's VIN in is not low enough. If you do ALL the labor yourself, ie that portion is "free" then you may come out even in the end after retail sale, IF it's done very very well. Any cost cutting or poor quality will DEFINITELY leave you upside down. My two cents. Things are definitely improving market-wise, but we ain't "there" yet.

2800 km behind us, 700 more to go. In Sault Ste. Marie tonight, On track to get there tomorrow afternoon. How many cottage owners can there be on their way back from northern Ontario tomorrow with us on the only road out of there? Couple hundred tops, right? At least my wheel bearings are ok..... A2 and A6, real common ones. Fronts right? Just clean and re-pack the old ones. Keep going... and going, and going..

Won't be the only name we call you, but ok. Winnipeg is actually worse then Regina. I'd heard the rumors but, geez, looks like it all needs a good power wash. My apologies to all the "fiendly Manitoban's" ... . (You have to see their license plates to get that one...)

We will be pulling into the hotel mid day Monday, staying in Sault Ste Marie the night before. You know, in all the long weekend returning traffic... yuck.... Have another Jim with me for good measure.. In Regina tonight. I'm from here, and I still don't like it everytime I come back.

Fewer Jims. Hmmm. Likely a good thing. I confuse easily. Mind you if I just say "Jim" the chances of someone answering is as good as it was before. Oh well.... For example, I'm bringing a white Nissan, but I can't remember which one I decided on...

Thank goodness Zup is coming. We need all the Jim's we can get after the unfortunate bow-out of the esteemed jfa above. I'm counting five so far.

Sent you a PM Matthew.. $350 seems pretty darn high.

I'm not exactly close, but I think I have a set if that works for you. Definitely have another set, but they are still in a 73 engine. Will check the first and PM you.

I'm just waiting for the first report of premature rubber mount failures... Says the eternal parts pessimist. If the 5/16 nuts drive you nuts and bad line up issue has you twisted, then grind the nuts off or drill them out, and go with M8 bolts and nuts like the early mounts. Something about SAE hardware on a Datsun that drives me spinny...

It will be great to catch up with any of you characters. Hardly wait to get there. Just have to survive Winnipeg to Sault St. Marie......

That seat is staying right where it is. Yes it is the seat from this car, but it's totally shot internally. Instead of getting new foam, straps and skins, I "obtained" a near new pair of seats that are just getting new blue skins. I just wish the blue color would grow on me. It's interesting, but not my fav. I'm keeping it original though.

I've just about had enough of cleaning, scrubbing, prepping, coating and painting BLUE stuff for this Z project. I am having a little bit of trouble trying to remember where it all goes. Am I close?

These hints have worked well for me in the past. Remove the weatherstripping until AFTER you get the door to fit. Use wedges/shims under the door to position it and prevent rubbing the door on the inside of the door opening harming paint. Remember the adjustment is on the hinge/body interface, not at the hinge/door bolts. Loosen hinge bolts, close the door, use shims to position the door, then tighten the bolts. Won't work well unless your hinge pins don't have any play. Good idea to take care of that first. It sucks that 280's have the hinge body bolts accessible from the outside, requiring the fender to be removed to access them. Mind you with the door closed on the 240 its tricky to contort yourself to get access to the bolt heads from the inside.

I'm not quite sure how it got started, but when I log into my account on thier site and add things to my cart, the discount is applied to the items. Never had a case yet where the discount was not applied without having to remind them. Always note your CZCC number in the comments when you submit your order to ensure they are informed. Also never had an issue getting through on the phone. Your experience my vary I guess.

Excellent. There is one exact sweet spot where I mounted it on top that was both flat and that cleared the stock fuel sender arm movement. If you do get in a bind so to speak with the sender arm, there is a great alternative sender sensor that I discovered while working on the 510 last year that you could install at the same time as the pump. Check this baby out! http://shop.classicinstruments.com/sn38t-3 They come in various lengths, and the ohm range for this one is darn near perfect for a stock gauge.