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zKars

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Everything posted by zKars

  1. Yeah I saw the Eastwood hot lamp system. How the heck to control temperature properly or is it that forgiving? I think I'll buy another matching cheap toaster oven, chop the ends off of both and "merge" them. Just imagine the roll of duct tape around and around the seam.. Think Red Green.
  2. Ah yes, another of the eternal list of decisions. Go with a "used" set of DATSUN sill plates lovingly (and slowly) restored, or use a fresh set without? Or spend $$ on someone's NOS set... Trade someone four sets of used for one NOS? At least I can offer the buyer either option. I need a longer powder coating oven.....
  3. Let's see what you can spot in the threshold strip shine.
  4. There. I'm black and blue and so is the car.
  5. I bought the seat covers from MSA. The interior panels are all original re-dyed, except the tail light panel and one quarter window cover. Just finished wrestling the seat covers on the drivers seat. Now all four pieces are done. May I again thank all the upholsterers out there for their service. And the inventor of the zip tie. Without those things to pull the back rest upholstry ends together, and a heat gun to soften that thick vinyl, I'd be a basket case. Will have them back in the car soon and pictures coming this aft. P.S. I'll also have a like new set of black seat covers just laying around if anyone would like them... I am NOT installing them for you.
  6. It goes round and round. Nothing special, its an asian "value priced" thing from Busy Bee tools here in Calgary. Wouldn't buy another one. Does the little things I need around here.
  7. Okay you bunch of crows, focus on the pretty white thing in the middle of the shop, not the shiny stuff all around. Weeeee, you're welcome to drop in anytime. Love to show you around.
  8. Some other blue interior pics. These were taken around my most recent new modern seat belt upgrade and how to do it properly in a series 1, oops I mean early Z with plastic behind the seat tool covers. It deserves it's own thread. Here the retractor reel fits right in the corner and still has room for the jack and wheel chocks. yes you have take a corner out of the cover to let the belt come thru. This is the shoulder belt extension that puts the pivot point loop just behind the drivers shoulder and puts the down going belt going straight down into the reel as its supposed to.
  9. Now about the blue interior and some pictures. Truth is I'm just putting the new blue seat covers on the seats. The rest of the blue interior parts are in place, but with the black seats, no matter how new and pretty, it just kinda spoils it. I have a whole new respect for upholstry people after struggling on the first seat cover. Second one will be easier. Skin about to go on the foam. Note I'm working on the original blue seat that now functions as a shop seat and workbench. Very handy for unholstry work too! The black seat back waiting to be stripped, and new base with blue. Comparing old and new Old and new. The new material is much thicker stock than the old. Nice and stiff in the cold out in the shop today. The seats I'm using were recently totally rebuilt with new foam and springs. Everything is shiny clean and new now
  10. A friend just sent me this link from Bring a Trailer. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-14/ And another high is set for a 240Z sale. $27,750 !!!! And its only a measly 73! (though a very nice one.) $25k for a fresh series 1 is looking pretty cheap. Just saying
  11. Blue pictures coming tomorrow. Not pictures of Blue though.
  12. Four nearly perfect "Z" hub caps to go on the nearly perfect 14x5 stock rims. I know, I know.... Don't start. I have 4 14x6 aluminum slot mags you can have if this is too "Wrong"
  13. Comes with its own "Cowl mounted LED lit tool tray" if one of "you" buy it!
  14. I've been working on a 12/70 (VIN 17813) restoration for about 10 months. It will be ready for sale shortly. I have been making vague references to this project in a few posts over the last few months, hoping to wet your appetite. I do feel strongly about the adage of "it should go to a good home and to good people" so I'm starting here. This is the only place it is currently advertised. I will keep this true for at least seven days. Here are a few details and pics to get your juices running. White on blue. Series 1. fresh single stage paint. Only minor rust was present and is all fixed. Standard disclaimer about there being "no such thing as a rust free Datsun". Lets get this out of the way now. Fresh L24 with an E31 head, but the block is NOT numbers matching. There. I said it. what a relief to get that off my chest. It is done primarily as a stock restoration but it has several small and tasteful upgrades and many important and common "Standard" improvements. Nothing that can't be easily reversed if you want to go "pure". It's not perfect. I built it as a driver, not a show car or medallion winner. There are lots of things you can still buy, clean perfectly, or improve on yourself to make it "more better" and "yours". I've take hundreds of pictures of pretty much everything that's been done to it. No secrets. I put a fresh wiper motor electrical connector on it. Just had to mention that.... There have been a couple of white on blue series 1's that have been offered in the last year that sold in the $20-25K USD range if you're wondering what I'm asking. Recent discussions by members of this forum of similar cars for sale, make this a very reasonable range to expect. I'm flexible but not like when I was 12. I want it sold sooner than later. There is still time to finish it to a buyers specification if the engine, trans, wheels, whatever are not right for you. How often do you get that offer from a seller? I will happily discuss the details with any of you that want the full story. PM me for a phone number. Pictures coming below. Jim Karst
  15. zKars posted a post in a topic in Interior
    My meager collection
  16. zKars posted a post in a topic in Interior
    Here is Eric's choke know image from his website. zparts.com/zptech/comparisons
  17. The show even got decent press. Next year there will be even more cars! http://www.theglobeandmail.com/globe-drive/reviews/classics/collecting-classic-japanese-cars-on-the-rise-as-jaguars-ferraris-become-unaffortable/article31741762/
  18. zKars posted a post in a topic in Wanted
    I'm not sure, but I really don't want to come to any croppers. ? Seems I do have one. There's one new one on flea bay for $165, a used one for $75 with shipping, I'm asking $50 + shipping.
  19. zKars posted a post in a topic in Wanted
    I think I have one. Let me check later today
  20. zKars posted a post in a topic in Help Me !!
    Pin sits flush ie all the way in. Things aren't lined up right yet.
  21. One clarification on the hot water flow through the manifold and carbs. On 72-74 carb systems there is a valve at the end of the intake where coolant exits, that CLOSES once the coolant reaches operating temps. Hence coolant flow is only used to aid the warm up portion of usage. Now if that valve is plugged open, perhaps it contributes. I'd love to know what normal everyday carb bowl temperatures actually run at then what temps rise to after shut down, including the fuel rail. BTW I'm having hot re-start issues right now as well on my ZT Su's. Electric pump only, Non stock fuel line routing, SS -6 lines, no return. wrapped headers, inspection door vents, 0 problem running once started at any temperature. Only happens after hot shut down.
  22. zKars posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Those appear to be the "black pearl" mirrors that I have seen described. I've been lucky to have a couple of sets and I love them. All metal, can be disassembled easily and tension of both ball joints is easy to set. (mirror to housing and housing to base stem). I have set on my 73. $50 is a steal. Go get'em!
  23. Ok, I feel obliged to point out a few things. 1. The liquid level you get in this experiment is dependant on the cross sectional area of the container. The boyancy effect of the float displaces a set volume of liquid, which causes the level to rise to a height that's = displaced volume/container area. If that cup is not the same diameter as a float bowl, you ain't even close.... Think about submersing a basketball into a bath tub or pool. You think maybe the bathtub level might rise a bit more than the pool? 2. Don't even get me started with the water/gas density difference being negligible. It's a 30% error in displaced volume. 3. So even with all these rather significant errors in float level settings, the car is then shown to run well. Hmmm.... It couldn't be that maybe the float level setting is not all that critical, could it? Foreshame the thought to challenge such a well accepted "truth" I feel obliged to apologize in advance for my rather gruff tone above. I seek only to bring enlightenment and to stimulate discussion. It's been one of those weekends....
  24. I've found those things from time to time inside the tip of the valve cover pipe outlet rather than in the hose. I wonder if the brissle metal type has an effect on its flame retarding/extinguishing effectiveness. Maybe I'm just trying to justify an experiment that involves explosives.
  25. I think many of us have battled with this issue including myself. I've gone from bushing-less adjustable race suspension that handled incredibly well but shook my teeth out, back to pretty much stock rubber where I still like how the car handles. the only mistake I made along the way was using shorter springs but not realizing how much shock travel you lose resulting in jarring bottoming out on not very big road bumps. I'm now a total fan of Weld on coil overs. Also watch where you put polyurethane. Just say no on the moustache bar, trans and engine mounts. These have nothing to do with suspension and everything to do with noise and vibration conduction to your arse and ears. I'm also quite perturbed how modern cars manage to have the softest compliant rides but also out handle me with one finger on their power-assisted leather steering wheels.
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