beandip

I have been learking , and what mostly I see here is cartoon solutions to a serious question . Dogs in the car yah right , nerve gas , give me a break. Air horns ?? maby . Removing the steering wheel or flattening the tires . Yah real practial when going in the market for a 6 pack . Like Ed said , it must be convient to the owner , It must easy to deploy and I think disabling the car. Layering the protection is a vary good idea. This way the most convient one will be used then from there depending on if you are leaving the car for a time ,like going to dinner or shopping then a secound leavel could be deplyed. Kill switches , they have done and done and done. Over done , HOWEVER, maby that is thought , install three or four switches , just remember a simple hot wire from the battery will defeat the kill switches. How about relays that disable the power to the entire car, or electric fuel pump , and or killing the power to the ignition either the plus or minus or both to he coil . I am not going into what I am doing here , just making comments on the possabilities that are useable . Gary

Gav240z read #4 . I cannot see how you can make that statement . Like Mike says there are no variables here the crank and the cam MUST work in unison and the fireing order must be in the proper order or the cylinders will fire either early or late on the compression stroke. Sure the engine can run . However performance will be way off and damage will be done to the engine if not corrected . engines will run easily at about 34 degrees total advance , this is accomplished through the centrifugal advance in the Dist. when you set it a 10 d BTDC at idle . This does not change the fireing order at all just the advance . You get the timing off enough and the engine can run backwards . I know a member that did it. Gary

Get the drive shaft , you will need a pilot bearing . While you are right there replace the rear main seal . You can do it with out droping the pan , just get a seal puller , about $5.00 . This will save a lot of work later if the old one starts leaking . Gary

I have had the dealer tell me that the part was no longer available , I looked up the part on the cd and then gave him the part number . I received the part in a couple of days. Yes it is worth the money . Gary

Tommy , just remove the loose nut behind the wheel

I removed the tray with a spotweld cutter. Be vary careful , I went through the inner fender in a couple of places . I was having some welding done any way so I just added it to the list. I through bolted mine back in after I cleaned off all the rust with a sand blaster and metal ready and a generous coating of POR . By bolting in place using stainless bolts and locking nuts I still have por in between the supports and the inner fender . At least this is my reasoning. I also treated the stand well on all sides , which is nearly impossable with it welded in place. I have pictures if interested. send me a PM with your email address . Gary

there is a member here that makes one . He is the same member that makes and sells the spindel pin puller , do a search

The stand is a little light but should work ok the engine is about 500 lbs plus or minus dipending what is bolted to it. I would have gone for a 1000 lb stand , this is what I have . If yours has wheels be vary careful when you try and roll it , the smaller stands tend to be narrow and will tip easily. Be sure to use hardened bolts , espeially if you mount the engine on the bell housing. Gary

It is a good thing you couldent. You would be in the gray bar hotel for asualt with a deadly wepon ( ADW) . Not a good thing . Also he could come back and could have said that he was in fear of his life , because you had the deadly wepon and he could have used deadly force to protect himself. You see how this crap can get out of hand . As it stands now you can go after him for assult and battery .

I have this theory . As time goes on the Z cars that have been abused and driven hard are the manual cars , for the most part . If you look at what is available , it seems the Zs with the auto transmissions are in better shape and better cared fore. I have a '73 and the first thing I was going to do is to change to a 5 speed. That was in '01 . I am just completing a complete redo of the car including a ZX engine but after driving the car on the street for a couple of years . I decided to keep the automatic. I like the manuals , and have driven them , but prefer my auto for street . On the twisties it is great and really I think it is a better performer. You can make the change and it is not to difficult , but drive the car for a while first. In traffic having to shift and so on is a whole lot less fun . The auto trans are tuff and will stand up . Unless you really abuse them , but the same is true with any tranny. I wouldent pass up a clean rust free because it was not a manual trans. if that was the only negetive.

NO YOU DONT. IF THERE IS ONE THING THAT WILL DESTOY THE VALUE OF A 240 , IT'S A SUNROOF.

YOU NEED TO JUST TAKE OUT A LOAN AT THE CREDIT UNION AND TAKE THE PARTS TO THE CHROMER . IF YOU POLISH THE ALUMINUM IT WILL TARNISH AND NEED TO BE POLISHED AGAIN AND AGAIN . CHROME YOU WYPE OFF AND KEEP CLEAN AND YOU ARE DONE . IF WHAT YOU WANT, IS LIKE THE PICTURES THEN CHROME THE PARTS.

same amount of down time and I hope to have her running this sat. Good going ED. Gary

Welcome to the club. Phred rebuilt that head and did a valve job on it not long ago. With the ZX ignition you wont need the black box that you are using now. The ZX ignition has a module on the side of the dist that is all that is needed. You will need a ignition coil that is for a electronic ignition. If the wireing hasn't been cobb up it is a easy mod and will worth the trouble. Find a '79-80 ZX ignition with a 12 - 80 module and a you are good to go. Gary

If you went out and bought a Rolex watch . Took it home and found that it was not working properly , and you dident have a clue what to do to the works to make it right. WOULD YOU TAKE IT ALL APART AND CLEAN ALL THE GEARS AND SPRINGS ???????? Sorry but WHAT WERE YOU THINKING ?? By the way welcome to the club. There are several members that live in your area . Why don't you post a question in the HELP ME forum and ask for a responce for some one in your area that may know a good mechanic. Or someone local that knows SOLEX carbs. Trying to reassemble these over the net using email will be a tall order . There may be a member that can shed some light on these units, I really hope so . If you are new to the Z world , I strongly recommend that you watch ebay and find a Nissan survice manual for your year of Z . They run around $50.00 but will be will worth the money . Gary :surprised

I think you should be able to find a decent early Z like you described for around 6K . The early 240s in good shape will be more and few and far between . A completely stock origional '70-'71 with little work needed 10k+

Kmak makes them and shipps. You want cheep ? ? I have a question . WHAT IS YOUR LIFE WORTH ?? It's like buying a cheep helmet. Why bother .

You don't want to block off the coolent from the intake and carbs. The coolent helps to cool the carbs and in cold weather it will help the engine warm up and run sooner. Install a electric pump by where the fuel line exits the tank . If you look along the wires that run to the sending unit in the tank , you will find the wires one green and one black rolled up and taped up with blue tape. These are for a electric pump. Be sure to add a inline fuel filter in the line before the pump . You should find a green wire with a inline fuze near the fuze pannel at the console by the heater pannel . The green is hot and the black is ground. This should help with the problem.

unlucky but ugly. sickning to watch . You just know what is comming and hope it dosen't . Gary

The rear main seal can be removed and replaced with out droping the pan . Just be careful not to scratch the surrounding surfaces or the new seal will leak. I used a seal puller for this , Nappa auto parts about $6.00 . For the future , another way to lock the engine in place . Turn the engine over untill one of the cylinders is on the compression stroke. Stuff a length on rope in the spark plug hole , if on the compression stroke the valves will be closed this is important. Now when you turn the engine the piston will compress the rope against the head and this will lock the crank in place. NOTE: leave a tag end of the rope sticking out so it is easy to remove. This works to remove the flywheel bolts as well . Jambing the cam puts all the load on the cam chain . Yeaks :dead: I don't know about doing that .Gary

Before you just drive the Z into any shop , ask for a estimate on cost. If you change the plugs your self they are around $10.00 for the set. The rotor and dist cap is a remove and replace thing as well. These things dont need to be from the dealer . Your local parts store can provide them . Do use NGK plugs, they work the best in these cars . The standard plugs are great , no need for any ''special '' type . Save your money . If the valves are not ratteling you might just wait and take care of the brakes , with the money you save on doing your own tune up. One thing nubeys do is tighten down the spark plugs to much . The head is aluminum and you can damage the threads if you tighten them too much . The rust shown in the photo on the low part of the fender is coming from the inside on the fender and coming through. This is caused form the cowl drain dumping into this area and the drain at the bottom of the fender being blocked or the cavity filled with dirt and leaves and stuff. This stuff holds moisture and rusts out the fender . Also this is the place where the rocker , frame rail , starts and if water is gitting in the rail it will rust it out also . Escanlon has posted a fix for the cowl drain , do a search for this . Congrats on the ''new '' Z enjoy the ride. Gary