beandip

Tomo you have had this car , how many years ? And just now you found the antenna ? Like 240zx I find this amazing .

There really isn't anything wrong with a 260 other than the carbs. As you aluded to it has different trim parts and bumpers and such from a 240 . The 260 engine is a 240 block with 280 crank. Nothing wrong with this either. As to a collectable car you are going to pay , but fine a clean as your can '70. Just like with any collectable thing the first year is the one most sought after. If you plan on driving the car , then this is not a issue , buy the 260. Just stay away from the 2+2 cars if you want resale value. This is my 2c . Gary

Replace it asap. Untill then keep the RPMs down . The clutch could fail and the fan will eat the radiator and maby the hood.

If you have had fuel in the oil , It would be a vary good idea to check the crank journals. The gasoline in the oil can deminish the lubercating of the oil and damage the berings . Another thing if you dont hone the cylinders the rings may not seat , and the engine will be a oil burner . Have you miked the cylinders for taper ?

I am refering to the CD that the club has for sale . It doesn't have instructions on how to do anything . It is the same information that the Nissan Dealer has when they look up part numbers . It has exploded views of the various systimes and it shows what the individual part numbers are. I bought mine 4+ years ago and unless I am wrong it was $20.00 .

I dident say you were stupid ! I was just telling you that we need more info in able to help you . If the injecters were colgged , true the engine wouldent run . However all 6 at once ? Are you geting spark at the plugs ? Start there . If yes that eliminates ignition , to a point . I am not a injection mechanic I have two cars with injection and I don't work on either one. I dont think you can clean them your self . Some Members here would be a better sorce of information in this area. Check all fuses and fusable links first before buying a fuel pump . If you do go the pump route be sure and get one for an injected engine .

It was running untill you parked it . Why would you suspect timing all of a sudden ? How was the engine running prior to this ? Was it running smooth ? Missing , running rough , pinging , knocking , what ? Was the car setting for a long time before you bought it? How did you dump the old fuel ? Did you pump it out with the fuel pump that supplies the injectors ? What did you see in the fuel you dumped , rust , dirt , water , what ?? You are not giving us much to go on . I could tell you to replace the ignition , all the injecters , and all the censers , new filters , and spark plugs. And the car may still not run . Come up with more info and someone here will be of help. gary

I just went through this . there are adjustments on the hinge to body and hinge to hood as well. You just need to keep working with it . Best to remove the grill so you can access from the front . Gary

this module will go to retard if there is no computer hook up. What is needed is a 12 80 module. No resister and a 12volt coil.

The vents in the hatch is definatly a design flaw , that was corrected quickly. The piller vents are not that big of a deal for ventilation but they allow you to close the doors with the windows up with out hearting your ears. These cars are not that air tight , the fresh air vents and or the heater vent will depresureise the interior. With no vents and with good seather seals you would need to slightly open a window to allow the fresh air vents and or the heater to let in a good amount of fresh air. the piller vents do work for that , sort of. As for the '71 with no piller vent holes , it had the covers with he 240 on them .

curtis240 the manual has a flywheel the automatic uses a flexplate. there is no crank shaft bushing for the automatic applicatoion, one is needed for the manual trans installation. It is true the automatic used a rad with a oil cooler in the lower tank . It will work fine with the manual trans , just remove the oil lines and forget it. as for all the questions about the difference of this part and that . the club sells a CD that has the entire program that the dealers use , showing part numbers and all . Drop the $20. it is worth it.

Ed , over the years there have been alot of restorations done and pictures shown . You have by far topped them all . Ausom job I bet is feels good to just sit in a chair and have a beer and look at her. Soon as you license her take her out for a drive , and enjoy. Thanks for the pictures . I doesn't look cold up there now ! Gary

I dont know about judges but I have been told that Chrisler orange is either right on or vary close . Mine is blue. Gary

The best advise I can give you for overhauling the SUs is to go to Ztherapy and get the vedio on this . To adjust them go to the tec articles and pull up adjusting SUs . Gary

I am 66 and a half. And am just finishing a complete redo of my '73 . In fact I drove it for the first time in 2 1/2 years monday.

I just installed '82ZX engine in my 240 and gave away the injection. I am running SUs and a cam , and headers. the compression has been raised to 9.5 to 1 and I have a '79zx ignition. the change over is no problem . Unless you are going all out and want top end performance , stay with the SUs they are simple and work well. I know a guy that turns in the 12s at the draggs in his 240 running Sus and street tires and it is his driver. Another friend of mine has a built Z with a set of tripple Mikunis and it goes like a mashd cat . But the tripples are more complicated and they are most effective at the hi RPMs . For a street driver the SUs is a good way to go. In my openion. Changing from injection will be a learning experience if you havent driven a Carbed car in winter . The computer working the injection for you will make adjustments in fuel richness when the engine is cold . You must do this with the use of the choke to richen the mixture. You will need a couple of tools to be able to adjust the SUs . A UNI-SN is a must , it is used to ballance the air intake of the carbs so that they are the same . this is the same thing for any multi carbed engine . Go to the tec page and look up adjusting SUs , it's all covered there . SUs are so less complicated and there are zero sencers to go bad. If you have further questions that I may be able to help with send me a PM Good luck , Gary

My '73 went 2620 with a half tank of gas and 220 lbs of me inside. It's an a automatic and had a spair and the jack and the factory tools . The emissions stuff has been removed and I have 240 bumpers . Gary

WELL , WELCOME TO THE CLUB. I personally don't know much about 280 s however I have a '82ZX engine in my '73 . You will find some of the members here that can help with the '76 , but yout '83 may be a streatch. But welcome , gary

FOR THOSE OF YOU THAT HAVE NOT USED THIS UP GRADE , BY ALL MEANS GET ONE . WITH OUT A DOUBT THIS IS A VARY WELL MADE UP GRADE THAT HE HAS MADE. I INSTALLD ON ON MY '73 AND ESCANLON HAS ON HIS '71 AND THE DIFFERENCE IS REMARKABLE . IT WAS A DIRECT PLUG IN . I HAVE INSTALLED H-4 LIGHTS AND ALL OF THE DASH AND TAIL LIGHTS ARE ALSO AT LEAST 40% BRIGHTER. WELL WOURTH THE $53.00 GARY

It has been just a matter of time ! Any one that lives near any stright away in the suburbs or even in the cities and has to listen to the RICER-MOBILES , blasting up and down the streets is in favor of clamping down. Also because of the raceing on the streets. It is simpley a cause and effect . Unfortunetly when the pendulum swings it will go to the other extreeme , then settle out. We will all loose here because as Cal goes the rest will follow. It has in the past and will this time as well. Especially where the populated areas are. Here in Portland we have recently seen a number of RICERS cought speeding on the freeways in excess of 140 mph in Honda Civics ! Now there is a platform that will be safe at that kind of speed ! NOT Gary

Welcome to the group , as was stated there is a tremendous amount of Z information here . Mostly we are from the USA and so the cars mentioned here have those features. So if our Zs are somewhat different than yours , please mention this when asking a question. For an example : our 260z was only available for one year , ' 74 . Your Z is looking good . I bet you don't see many other ones on the road there. Gary

QUOTE :One question though. All the rustproofing systems say to apply to bare metal thats been pretreated ( POR-15 needs an application of metal ready, Rust encapsulator says to wipe it clean with laquer thinner. If i can't do this and just spray onto whats there will it still work well enough ? I really wasn't looking forward to openning this area up anyway. IF YOU DONT USE THE MARIENE CLEAN THEN THE METAL READY BEFORE THE POR. Then dont bother using por at all because you cannot cut corners . If the metal is 1. preped properly 2. not ablolutly dry . Unsatasfactory results will be the case. Period. I have not used Rust Bullet or any of the other products my self so I cannot offer any knowledge on them . Por when cured , which is in a matter of just a few hours, is a extreemly hard coating and smooth. I used the hi-gloss black and when applied with a brush , it looks like it was sprayed on. It covers and flows out beautifully and it penetrates into the seams. If fact if you get it into threads plan on taping them out because a bolt will not thread in if you don't. POR uses the moisture in the air to accelerate the cure . They recommend not painting with it on a rainy day because it will cure quickly. It loves your skin also , wear rubber gloves or it will need to wear off if allowed to cure there. Once POR is cured NOTHING will melt it . This is why if you are going to spray a finish coat over it , either shoot the finish while the POR is still tacky , shoot it with Ti-coat primer or allow it to cure and then plan on sanding to give the finish paint ''tooth''. As to why applying to bare metal , when it is applied to a painted surface , it will only adhear as well as the paint under it. Gary

From the discription of the car , count your self lucky. Here in Oregon a $1500.00 car better be driveable and not a rust bucket and all there. Any less of a Z and I would definatly pass . I paid $500. for mine and drove it two years before I decided to get into it for the refresh. Note I dident say restore because to me that means take it to origional. I redid my Z as I want it , form the outside it looks stock pritty much , the paint is not a stock yellow , and the '73 bumpers are gone and early 240s in there place. I have had to dump a few grand into the car and 2 1/2 years not being able to drive her. Find the best rust free Z you can afford , you will be way ahead for sure. GARY

I depends on how deep your pockets are. From what you stated this will be a costly restore or refresh for that matter. If you can spend several thousand dollars on the car , then go for it . Other wise it is a parts car and there arnt many parts there as it sounds . Gary