beandip

I think you will find the room for you to be good. You should be able to fine a vary nice 240 for $15K.

the richness and lean is controlled by the position of the needle as it rises and falls into the nozzle. SU carbs are vacume dependant . if the buterfly is closed then the vacume being drawn into the engine is minimal. As the butterfly opens this increases the flow of air over the nozzle and that draws fuel into the engine . As this is happening the needle is further drawn up out of the nozzle and because of it's taper causes more fuel into the mix . With little vacume or air flow the piston that controlls the needle cannot rise . This is appairently what was happening . Check the adjustments on the linkage

Just think about running fuel through a turbo ?? do you think the exhost gases that spin it are cool ? Explosion ! no wonder , a intercooler is to cool the air but the fuel is injected into the cylinders. As to the comment of the L-24 vs the L-26 and 28 and the F-54 ZX engines . the L-26 is just a 240 engine with a 280 crank . this was brought on line to try and make up for detuneing of he L-24 and it's loss of power . This detune was mandated to comply with the emissions standards enforced at that time . The engine was then bored some and brought he bore and stroke back to the ratio used on the early blocks , thus the 280 . There were also larger valves and different ignitions used which improved and helped performance and emissions as they continued to try to keep the performance up . All along the car became heaver . The F-54 is just a different casting of the block and involves the water jackets and supposededly made a stronger block. The ZX engine is the latest in evloution of this fine engine. It has flat topped pistons , unless its a turbo. All the other years of L-28 280 have dished pistons . I hope this answers your questions. ezra .

I really cannot tell from the picture but , is the damage just to the valves? You must have been at a low RPM . Sorry to hear of the damage to your car. The engine appears to be running good judging from the look of the pistons . Remember justacarguy the same thing happend to him . Phred redid the head for him . Only 5 valves on that head . Just hoping that the head is not damaged and you can get by with just a few valves . Gary

Another time the club CD can save a lot of time . I have found if I go into the dealer with the part number I come away with the parts . They may have to order them . They may not have all the info any more due to age of the car . I don't know , but with the partnumber it seems to access either a cross reference or something but it is worth the money spent on it .

I have a 240 so I don't know about the 260 weather or not that they are sided or not. However dont use spray adheasive use a THIN coating of silicone sealer. This way it will seal real well and if you need to remove it some day it shouldnt tear .

Is this a car that had a automatic or manual tranny ? The wireing is different for a automatic. All the engines form '70 to '83 will fit a 5 speed will require some trans tunnel mods. But not much . Radiaters go about 100.00 . depending on what trans used drive shafts will vary in length. This car came with a R-180 differential one from a 280z will fit but a couple of other items will also be required . Electrical is another matter , hopefully the wiring is in tact. You will need a alternater a set of SU carbs and intake . To have a engine rebuilt will be in the neighborhood of 2K You should be able to find a decent engine for about $500. to 600. Personally I would look for a 280ZX motor. It's the incidentials that will put you in the poor house. Rebult SU with no core to turn in will be around $800. or so. So if you can find a decent set for around a 100. it would be worth picking them up . Look for a center console also and shift linkage . Vacume brake boosters are a few hundred you might look for one. Gary

I installed H-4 with the wiring up grade and the difference is fantastic. I am running 90/100s and now I can see great even when the streets are wet with rain and no street lights. I wouldent recommend them unless you do the wire upgrade. If you don't have the wiring you will destroy the switch and they are EXPENSIVE because so many are fried. Plus the fuse box will likely melt. Before I installed the wiring I did try the lights and within just a couple of min the fuse was so hot , I burned my finger when I touched it. I know these are the upper end on wattage bulbs that I am using . by the way I bought mine from escanlon . He bouhgt them on ebay and went another style for his car and I don't remember the maker , he might . Gary

Pete , sorry but I agree with montoya on this only I think the 3K is a vary low estimate , for what you have asked about having to buy . There is too much missing from the car. If you had a donor car that had a good engine and running gear that you could just swap in this would be different . You are looking at some big bucks to save this car and from what you have posted I don't think you have the funds . I would estimate $5000.00 is a more accurate number . I just am finishing on a project car and I am into it for more than this and I had a running and drive able car to start with . I recommend if you really want a Z to save some money and find the most complete and rust free car you can find and go from there. You will be WAY ahead. Parts are getting spendy for these cars now . This is why so many of our members buy parts cars . They are not often found in bone yard like a few year ago. This car is likely a donor car the seller has removed what he needed and is selling the shell . Sorry to be a bearer of bad news but I wanted to be streight with you. If you do buy this car I will help as much as I can . Gary

Welcome to the club . Your car looks good , you have done a great deal . If we can be of any help just ask . Gary

I have Hagerty Ins . So what is your point ???:stupid:

WHAT ARE YOU SAYING ABOUT READING THE THREAD ? ITS ALMOST 4 YEARS OLD !!!!! FOR CRYING OUT LOAD DON'T YOU HAVE ANY THING BETTER TO DO BILL ???? :(

just a word of caution with a spotweld cutter . Be vary careful with it. It is vary easy to go through the inner fender when cutting the weld . I did three times and the holes had to be welded up . By removing the tray and doing all of this , you then can POR the under side of the tray and do a decent job of finishing the whole area . I also modified the stray support slightly so now it drains well when I wash the engine bay , insted or holding water as they do stock . It is not visible but it is something to think about when you have the battery support removed . :laugh: Gary

Rick I am going to send you a PM on this . What I did because I only had one small dime size hole from rust through . I removed the tray and treated the whole area with POR paint. I had the hole repaired with a metal patch welded in first then used stainless bolts with locktite and bolted the tray back in . this way there is POR between the tray and the inner fender , if it were welded in , the heat would have burned away the POR protection .

There is a plate on the drivers door jamb by the latch this has the build date . early Zs have SU carberaters that are side draft so you cannot safely pour fuel into them . If the car has been setting for years and not run DO NOT TRY AND START IT. You can dammage the engine to the point that a rebuild will be in order . Mainly determine the year , check under the carpets on both side foot wells for rust , when looking under the hood , check for ruat under the battery and check the oil while you are there . The reason I say do not try to start the engine is , when the engine is turned off after running . there are always valves open to the cylinders . three things can happen 1. all is well and no rust 2. the valve stems could have rusted some causing the valve to stick in position. 3. rust in the cylinders and it could cause a broken ring or worse . If the engine is spun on the starter the piston could strike the valve as in #2 and damage either or both . Do a search on starting a strored engine for the proper start up . These are the main things . Alot depends on where you live as to the possable problems , you dident put it in your profile . Gary

Yep , this is the infection . I was just going to replace the ring gear on the flywheel and WIAI , I figured it would be a good time to detail the engine and engine bay . Well almost 3 years later I now have new floors , paint , engine , wireing replaced . But she is back on the road . This is why I tell new Bs to drive the car for a while and do the safety things first and enjoy the ride befor diveing in on a redo.

escanlon and I have used a simple siphon type of air gun to blow POR into all the rails and void areas of the car , including inside the rear hatch , doors , dogleggs and fresh air channel and many others . Harbor Fright has this little handy gun for about $6.00 . One thing you will find with POR paint is that it covers vary well and penatrates into the spaces between the layers of sheet metal that have been spot welded together at the factory. I have one of these guns still in the package some where , if I can find it I will send you the part number . Gary:cheeky: I just reread the first post you made and I question the adding of a layer of metal over a rusted frame rail in the first place . This seems to me , a band ade approach to a serious problem . The existing rust will continue to grow . ''Out of sight out of mind '' is not a good option , in my view . my $ .05

I agree 100% with Will . I want to add , POR paint will penatrate vary well to seal the space between the supports and the floor . The POR if applied as directed will bond like no other paint I have ever seen and will seal off the metal from further rusting.

Next time the engine dies like you describe . take a look at your gas filter and see if it is empty or full. This should tell you something . You can blow some air through the fuel line to the tank incase the line is partally blocked . If you are having particles blocking the filters or lines you need to remove the tank and have it serviced. One more thing , there are screens in the inlets of the SUs from the factory , maybe if thair still in there remove them .

What j hammer and Mike said is true . One vary important thing with POR is no moisture and no oil of any kind. Be absolutly sure there is no moisture or the POR will foam and not seal off the metal .

Is what you are thinking is to exchange the engines or rebuild the bone yard one ? The last time I looked the exchange engine builders charged $200. for no core . If this is still the fact , is it worth all the work involved to exchange the engines for the $50.00 difference ? one more thing , first make sure what block you are buying , it may not be a F-54 ZX engine .

Is what you are thinking is to exchange the engines or rebuild the bone yard one ? The last time I looked the exchange engine builders charged $200. for no core . If this is still the fact , is it worth all the work involved to exchange the engines for the $50.00 difference ?

I havent pulled apart a '79 ZX engine , specificly . But from what I have read the ZX engines that are NA all have flat toped pistons . That is all F-54 blocks. All turbo engines are the same engine ,but with dished pistons. My ZX engine has flat topped pistons but a P-79 head which is what came on that F-54 block , and is a '81 ZX . Also All L-28 engines have dished pistons. The F-54 engine is the same bore and stroke as all other 280 engines , but the heads , P-79 & P-90 supposedly, has the later better design combustion chambers. Much of this information is elseware on the web site . I can only state what I personally experience and pass it on . One difference in the F-54 is in the casting of the block , supposedly again , this is a stronger block . A down side , I have been told , is they tend to run hotter than the L-24 . I have been running a 240 radiator and have not had any trouble in hot weather at least so far . Check the casting number it should be a F-54 block if it is a ZX block . As to if it is a weaker engine , this is the first posting I have read to that and I would like to see some dyno numbers to back that up . Gary

My floor pan was split lingth wise about 18'' on the passenger side floor. Outboard of center and rusted badly . This side I replaced with a Zedd floor pan . On the driver side I had pin holes in one area just ahead of the seat . This area I repaired with POR and POR matt. You need to be the judge , if the metal is thin from rust , replace it. As to the tar matt . I only removed it up the side of the tranny tunnel about 2'' above where I found zero rust. I can see no need to remove it , if it is rust free then apply more. From the pictures it looks like heavy rust scale on the driver side by the rocker . Have a long look at this area. With this type of unibody construction the floor is part of the frame so keep this in mind . I sand blasted all bare metal and any rust , did the necessary repairs . Then treated the metal as directed by POR 15 and used there products to treat the floors both inside and under the car . Your floors from the pictures don't look to be in that bad of shape , but pictures don't always tell all . Have a good look under the tar matt in the back floor and around the spair well . I have pictures if you are interested, send me a PM Gary

Absolutly I agree and am fortunate to be able to call him friend . Gary ONLY NOW HE WILL GET A BIG HEAD !!!!!!! ROFL