beandip

Change the oil and filter before you run the engine any more . And do check the plugs , some one already said that they thought an injector is at fault. I agree . Since you have rebuilt the engine , go the extra yard and install new injectors , or at least take yours in and have them cleaned . My 2¢

COUPLE OF THINGS . fIRST OF ALL ALL THIS PANNIC ABOUT WHAT THE STUFF IS AND ALL . YOU ARE MAKING A MOUNTAIN OUT OF AN ANT HILL !! SIMPLEY JUST TAKE THE DARN STUFF OFF AND THROW IT AWAY !! IT WAS A METHOD THAT WAS TRIED TO ALIVIATE A PROBLEM AND IT ONLY MARGINALLY WORKED. THE ANSWER WAS TO USE THE ROUND TOP SUs . In fact if a customer complained enough this is what the dealer did. Also the addition of the electric fuel pump ,was what cured the boiling fuel problem in the fuel rail. The duct tape on the air cleaner is covering the port that was the clean air supply to the air injection pump. Easy fix is to simply plug the hole from the inside with a every day CORK !! ACE hardware has buckets of them . As to the standard equipment comment . The wrap was not necessarly standard it was a dealer mod . Just the same as the wheels on your car . Steel wheels with ugly hub caps was standard , anything other than that was added by the dealer. My 2 ¢

I will say I recently drove a z with a quad on it and it ran VARY STRONG . I am not ready to change , but I will say that I was impressed. Gary

If your '73 still has the flat tops , remove them , for starters and find a set of round tops. I installed a ignition from a '79ZX complete with the coil , this was a big improvement in the driveability of the car. From there it's bucks . A 260 cam has the highest lift Nissan ever put in the Z , if you want to go that route . One improvement that isn't engine related is to change diff gearing. your Z if it has a manual trans , it has 3.36 to 1 gears in the diff. changing to a diff from a automatic , a 3.54 ratio , will give you more off the line. That is an option. A cam really just raises the Power band to a higher RPM for the most part . Then if you want the engine to breathe better at the higher Rs then the headers and larger dia piping is in order . This sacrifices low end power , which if the car is for street not track its really backwards , for street driving . Not many of us drive around spooling the engine to 5K all the time. But if this is your thing then it's there for you to try . my 5 ¢

looking at the pictures , the rust dosent look that bad. When you get the rust cleaned the holes will be larger , before you find good metal . Then you will be able to evaluate what you have . My 2 ¢

This may be of help to you . The adjustmnet that is under the carb , the one where the fuel line connects . Turn this clockwise to the stop . This is the mixture adjustment , lean/rich , now turn the adjustment counter clock wise 2 1/2 turns . This should be a good starting place as to the mixture . The engine should run at least. As to dampenener oil in the carbs , as was already stated 20w is what the factory recommends and after trying several oils , I found they were correct . at least for me. ATF is 5w and too thin . I could only find 20w at a cycle shop and it is used for the front forks , Fork oil. Try some 10w30 . You only need about 5cc for each carb. Go to the Tec section and look for Adjusting SU carbs . There is a step by step on how to do the adjustments. I found my UNI-SUN carb air ballance tool at my local parts store in the speed section . $25.00 , but that was about 6 years back.

thanks to everyone , I have been trying to forget it was my b day , they seem to come along two darn fast . Thanks to all of you for all the help over the years here on this web site . I couldent have redone my Z with out you all . One day I will post pictures in the gallery . Gary

Thanks Bryan , and yes I am shareing tomarrow with Jeannie . We have been for the past 46 years . Woah that's a long time when you see it in print !

Bill was siting on the curb one summer afternoon with a bottle full of turpentine . He was shaking it up and watching the bubbles . After a while bravo 6 comes walking buy and asks bill .''What ta hell are ya doin mate '' thinking it may be gasoline ? Bill looked up with a toothey grin and said '' this here is the most powerfull liquid in the world this here is turpentine '' . bravo 6 just stood there for a bit , and then said '' na mate thats not the most powerful liquid , Holy Water is . You rub some Holy Water on a pregnant womans belly and she will pass a beautiful baby''. Bill replys '' shukins that aint nuthin , you rub a little turpentine on a cat's arse and it will pass a 240 Z"

With a car that looks like that.....check in San Francisco....it would blend into the background...... Then again, maybe someone put it out of it's misery..... Just a thought or two.

If you do get to the point that you decide on a EZ-out . Be V A R Y careful . The EZ-out is as hard a file and vary brittle . They easily snap off if not careful , and even if your careful! Trying to drill out the EZ-out with a drill that is made of softer steel is a real problem. So make doubly sure that you do not put ANY side to side pressure on it. I have used these things for years and they are a last resort for me . I try to avoid them as much as possable. I have heard of having a bolt welded on the end of the broken bolt then backing it out, I havent had to try that , as yet . I know cremmenga's dady used one like he said , but there a crap shoot. My 2¢

Send phred a PM he is the guru when it comes to heads and engines. This is what he does for a living. To do this just click on private messages at the top of the home page . Gary

THATS A SUPRISE :laugh: :laugh:

18 hell I thought you were 19 ! Gazza

What is the cost of a ruptured disk ? "Saving " the $25.00 shure as hell isn't worth the pain . Take my word for it . I spent 3 yrs in rehab .

Victors in the land down under !!!! Gazza

I know a guy that is parting out a complete early '71 and the dash and all the plastic is really great. if this helps . gary I just looked at your profile and you state you don't own a Z ??

Arne , woulden't be easier to move the unrunning Z than busting your gut trying to load the engine in the back end of a land rover ? I dont think you can do it . Not with only 3 men . At least lifting it up and skidding it in.

I went with my P79 head . Milled .030 gave me 9.5 compression . Stock flat top F-54 block. I run Plus gas . Havent tried regular , with the timing set at 10 BTDC there has not been a problem. If you do go more than .030 then you do need to shim the towers . There is a guy I know that is in the business . His name is Kim Blough I will send you a PM with his email address. You spent the big bucks on the pistons are you going with a cam as well ? Kim is a good one to ask questions about that as well . Gary

DatsunZrule , Your position on this mate issue makes as much sence as Custer at the Little Big Horn telling his men not to take any prisoners . Are you so uninfromed that you cannot tollerate the differences in slang from other countries . You need to get out more , and not be so quick to flame others .:stupid: :stupid:

Leave my bright yellow golf tee alone !! I am hoping the judges are golfers. Plus I signed it with the Sharks name , KEEP THAT A SECRET !:tapemouth In any case it a temp. mod :stupid: As for the Fiat emblem , I think that would be looked down upon . No different than a Fairlane script on the side insted of Datsun .

I agree with nucubsman , about the lack of noise from the diff. However the streets were wet from a light rain at the time and that could have muffled a slight whine . I did however hear a slight whine in my own diff on the way home , go figure . Gary Yah what does es know any away ??

To me from what you describe the performance is like , if the engine is in proper tune that is . The engine is over cammed for the gearing . Installing a performance cam in a engine changes the RPM where the engine makes power . A radical cam will require the engine to spool up to much higher Rs to perform at it's best . When you are driving down the freeway / turnpike in 4th gear what are your RPM vs MPH ? This is one thought. If you are concerned with numbers matching and you do not want to install a later engine then I think you need to rethink your 190 HP figures . Especially if you don't have deep pockets. Since the car has been modified already , 5 speed , different diff, and the engine has been modified , numbers matching really is no longer a factor. Now keeping it all stock then yes keep numbers matching . Some day someone may want to strip it down and restore it to origional . This is where the numbers matching come in for show judging. My 2 ¢

Well to start with install a new set of NGK spark plugs . Is it a 240 or what ? injected or Carbed ? Has some one installed other than stock fuel delivery systime on the engine. Have you tried anything on the engine trying to fix this ? More information is necessary in order for us to be of any help . Low indicated oil pressure MAY not be a problem . The oil sending units are a common problem . I bought a cheap mechanical oil pressure gague and connected it where the sender was installed . I did this on a temp basis just to get a true pressure reading . Do not expect the engine to respond when not warmed when the choke is off. these engines are cold blodded . You might just ease off on the choke a little and see if this helps . Gary

With my old L-24 with many miles on her she clocked a steady 23 on the hiway and 19 to 20 in town. All stock engine accept for a '79 ZX ignition and Round tops with F-54 needles . '73 Z automatic . v12horse , What air tube was removed ? Gary