beandip

Well , for one thing as soon as you modify the #36 manifold any numbers you get testing on a dyno will mean nothing . If you want to test for effectiveness . First run the stock manifold then the 36 unaltered then do all the grinding you want and test again. The numbers will then show the differences. Comparing a large V-8 to these little 6s is comparing apples to watermelons . Every engine builder for performance that I have talked with about these in line engines has said just what you alluded to . The roughness in the intake is left for a purpose , to cause turbulence and to keep the fuel mixture from condensing on the walls of the manifold . Smoothing out the exhaust manifold is a different matter . Now matching the size of the intake and exhaust ports to the openings on the head and sizing the gasket also should be done . This information that a 10 HP gain has been kicked around for years and years . I have never seen or heard of anyone actually proving this on a dyno . Seat of the pants results mean nothing to me . Phred who is a member here may have some input on this as he builds these engines . Kim Blough is another . Gary

these should be tapered threads and should not need tape . If you do use teflon tape be careful to keep it back from the end of the fitting.

HOLD IT ! THE LOBES MUST BE UP N O T DOWN!! If the lobes are down then the cam will NOT BE A TOP DEAD CENTER . Gary

I just returned from the library and they have , at least at my library . The wiring diagrams for the whole car that can be accessed on line . So check with your local library they most likely have the same thing . I am working on another auto related project and needed info. so I asked as long as I was there. You could most likely down load all the information you need . Hope this helps . Gary

jmort , sorry but I do not agree with you about the vacuum advance not being necessary . For a track engine yes ,but not for a street application if you want a smooth performing engine. Zup , the part # 22163-H9501 In Oct of '03 the price was $45.53 . the breaker plate is not rebuildable . After 20 years or so of service the plastic keepers that hold the balls in place , become brittle and brake . This allows the balls to fall out and the vacuum plate cannot rotate as needed . As you have found . Hope this helps . Gary

helldog , You did say that this is a '77 but is it still running injection or carbs? If the engine , if injected, does not received pressurised fuel to the injectors at start up the engine will not start. Find the source of your fuel leak , first . Then see why the pump is not working , properly . There is no fix for the fuel pump , however check that the filter at the pump is not clogged . Or the pick up inside the tank is not blocked with rust or crud . If you have compressd air , blow air through the pick up coming from the tank while you are checking the inline filter . I dident ask , can you hear the fuel pump running when you turn the key to start the engine ?

Welcome to the group .

Welcome to the club , and congrats on the new toy. We are here to be of help . You dident include where in the world you are . Gary, Portland oregon.

I don't have one .

The info I have is on a '79 Part number # D6K8=02 the centrifugal advance starts at 0 at 600 and full advance 8.5 @ 1250 RPM Vacuum advance to start 5.90 inches of vacuum and max vacuum advance of 11.6 @ 9 inches so the total advance is 20.1 These specs. are from my notes when I was researching this stuff 5 years ago and I didn't add the source of the information. I do agree that the difference is not much between the two units . It just was recommended to me to get the manual one , and as it happened I did. The advance markings are stamped on the centrifugal advance arm that is seen , only when the vacuum plate is removed . Judging from my past dealing with advance curves back in the '70s , it is the springs that control the weights as they spin that dictate the advance curve . Now I am guessing that there may be a difference in the weights or the position of there stops , that account for the different specs. In either event I think either unit it isn't signifficant . Gary

Your local parts store will have a rebuilt unit . I live in the Portland area and here they are about $135.00 . I rebuilt my own ignition and the parts alone came to 80.00 . The parts store will want your old unit for a core other wise the cost will be about $40.00 additional.

[ NOTE!!!! When you go to the JY to pick up that Dizzy, make sure you get the ZX hold down bracket, as they are different than the Z's. Absolutely I agree with all the above . I am using the ZX coil and have no regrets. I just want to clarify one item. the '' hold down bracket '' this is the extension that the dist bolts to and it in turn is attached to the engine block. yukonharry is correct, the same part from your old L-24 dist will not work. One more thing '79 & 80s have the correct module . '81--83 all use another , however the distributors of all years of the ZXs will work , you just need to change to the 12 80 module . The manual cars have different advance from the automatic equipped Zs . Others may have input on the effect of this. I have a manual ignition on my 240 Z with a automatic trans. It's a '82 ZX flat top engine with SUs and a Moderate cam. runs strong. My 2 ¢ Gary

I have said it a dozen times that the RX-7 pump will supply the SUs and or Tripples . I have tried it and it will . I used a pump froma '80 RX-7 . No pressure regulator is needed. Plus it is quiet. $15.00 at a u pull it.

There was a discussion on this a while back. What I have done is to put a tee where the sending unit for the oil sending unit is and installed a pressure switch that activates only after 5 psi is reached. This is wired into the pump circuit. The engine starts and runs off the fuel in the carbs and within a couple of seconds after start up the fuel pump starts running. The only down side is if I run out of gas , then I will need to bridge the contacts to have the pump fill the carbs , not hard to do . My 2 ¢ Gary

A couple of issues here . First of all the 3 screw SUs have the domes fitted specifically for that one carb at the factory when it is assembled . There are supposed to be some ''plastic'' type cone shapes that align the dome to the carb base. This is the only adjustment for the needle and it is what is fitted at the factory. If the needle is not centered in the nozzle it will either wear them both which will alter the fuel mixture , were only talking of thousands of an inch . Eventually it will not be rubbing and the piston will rise and fall as it should but the damage is already done. Nozzles are NLA as far as I know. At least form Nissan USA. The Gunk is blow by from a tired engine usually , sounds like a candidate for a rebuild in the near future. Compression rings are failing . Now if the seals on the air box are not sealing properly , then dust and dirt will collect on the oil being blown in from the engine. Check the fuel line that runs from the float bowl to the mixture adjustment . If it is stiff or brittle this will cause the nozzle to stick also. Parts store hose is too stiff. Nissan or Ztherapy have the hose. VACUUM HOSE WILL NOT WORK HERE ! It looks the same but it will fail and dump gas all over the header. I hope this of help . Gary

This is what I have found that worked vary well for me . FebreZe ! It is a fabric refresher , as it says on the bottle. This stuff is amazing . I took the ''horse '' hair insulation that is on the trans tunnel and the firewall , form a parts car . Phisicaly is was intact and in good shape but had been wet for at least 2 yrs and smelled really bad . After I dried it out completely by laying it out in the sun . The sun does shine in Oregon some times . Any way after it was dry I sprayed the FebreZe all over the insulation , rather heavy , and again let it dry . ALL the order is gone , completely gone. You can find it in the Market where they sell the soap and bleach . It is worth a try and it wont hurt any thing either . It does say that it is not recommended for leather . So just spray it from under the seat.

BACK TO THE TOPIC . If you suspect the pump is leaking fuel into the crank case . Do change the pump , but by all means change the oil and filter. the gas will thin the oil and you will burn up the engine. If you are running lean as you have said , cure this ASAP or you will burn the valves. As for a fix to go to a electric pump , I have been running a RX-7 pump from a '80 Mazda for going on 4 yrs. paid $15.00 at the u-pull-it. Pumps 5psi. and is quiet. I just made plate out of 1/4'' aluminum the shape of the original pump and bolted it to the head to seal the port. Now I am running SUs on a ZX engine with the same pump. With the L-24 I was getting 23 on the hi way and 14 to18 in town depending . Speedo is not accurate so I don't know what the MPG is now .

It's a easy thing to do . The black for he spokes that I use is satin black. I would sand down the metal part of he wheel with 400 wet dry paper. On the plastic "wood" portion , use a 3M scratchey pad like for cleaning pots and pans . Just moderately scrub the plastic part with it and I use Joy or any liquid dish washing detergent . This will remove the left over finish and the grease from your hands. Dry every thing off with fresh clean cloth. Mask off the spokes and spray clear on it. there are several options of clear finishes . Laquer drys the quickest but is not as durable , Spar varnish would be the most durable . After completely dry , mask off the clear and shoot the black . The one I have on my Z presently is finished with lacquer and it still looks good after 3 yrs. There is no need to stain or color the plastic . After you clean the wheel with the detrgent it will be vary dull , but when you apply the finish you will be pleased . Gary

I agree with arne , I set my carbs and don't need to do anything but top off the dampner oil about 3 times a year . I am running a '82 ZX flat top engine With SUs , the air box is from a '72 and the element is a K&N .:rambo:

When I have sold a car , truck or boat or home . I set the price that I am comfortable with and what I think the item is worth . When sold , I don't look back . Secound guessing will drive you nuts. I have heard this so many times it sold too quick. It had to be priced to cheep ! And I am not talking of the items I have sold but in general . Remember it only takes one buyer. Now if you list a item and have byers fighting over it , YES YOU LISTED IT TOO LOW . Ok , just remember you were satisfied with the price when you listed . Move on .

Have you contacted Zedd Findings ? Charley Osborne has the best floor pans I have seen . I used his and am vary happy.

No it will not work . The 280 has it's equivalent module mounted , I believe , under the dash . Two completely different distributors .

Go240Zags, the window channel # 18-4874 it comes in 8' lengths and you need 2 The prices may have changed a little but are about $8.00 EA Gary

Jayru , If you were going to leave the basement a basement then interior drain systime and or a sump pump would be ok. Since you are wanting to make a liveable area in there you will continue to have dampness and the associated oder . Be advised that in most areas of the country . If you are having sleeping quarters there a way of egress directly to the exterior of the house is required. If a window is the method it cannot have a sill higher that 48" form the floor. So a person can exit to the outside . Also on older homes the basement slabs were not poured over a vapor barrier and you may find that moisture may be drawn up from below and also through the walls when the area is heated . Personally I used pressure treated lumber any place where the wood is in contact with the cement. Like when framing the walls around the permiter for sheetrock . If the moisture is not severe , I have had good luck with Dry-lok paint to seal the concrete. It may not completely solve the problem but it will help a great deal. My 2 ¢ One more thing be sure you have a good roof gutter systime to keep rain water form draining close to the foundation .

if this is he solution to the malfunction that's great . I have never heard of this being the problem or the solution to a malfunctioning sending unit. Thanks for the follow up post. Gary:laugh: