beandip

I don't know if it is because of the J C Whitney pad that I used on the floor over the Be Quiet material , but my carpet stays put . I haven't attached either in any way. I did use spray adhesive on the trans tunnel and fire wall to adhere the OEM jute , but that was the only place . My thought is that in case I do spill something on the floor , I can easily remove all and clean and dry the area. Gary

Much depends on your use of the car and how it is stored. If your Z is a daily driven car my insurance will not cover you . I have Hagerty insurance. I have a '73 and it is stored in a locked garage when not in use . She is not my daily driver . I have the Z for a pleasure car , driving her to shows , cruses and pleasure drives when I wish . I have , and this is important , a agreed upon value policy with full coverage . The same as that is on our other cars , my wife's and my truck . My Z has a set value of 12K and through Hagerty I have 100 mile guaranteed flat bed towing . Yearly rate for the Z is $164.00 per Year . I drive my 240Z between 3 and 4 K a year. I hope this helps . If you have an old car 70s or 80s and don't have a agreed upon value policy , if you are in an accident you are looked upon as driving and old car . What do you think a old Datsun is worth in the eyes of a insurance co. My friends Z was totaled when he was struck in the rear , damaging the quarter panel and cracking the tail light. His 240 Z was just a old Datsun as far as his Ins co was concerned. Gary hope this helps .

The bell housings for all F-54 blocks are the same for manual trans . the only differences in the engines are the heads and pistons . There are no turbo blocks .

I sent a PM with a recommendation. all the best . :knockedou

:knockedou I took by Z to a rolling shell and used the ultimate over the interior. You need to have cleaned the surface of dirt and dust and if there is ANY rust . This should be taken care of . I personally used POR 15 . I used proxy 80 feet of the stuff. I used it inside the doors on the outer skin and on the inside of the rear fenders as far as I could reach. I also used it on the inside of the plastic trim panels . On the floors and firewall I covered them all and especially the underside of the cowl. I used the stock horse hair matting over the firewall and trans tunnel . On the floors I used a product I bought from JC Whitney that is used for under the hood or for Marine use . I comes in a roll 36'' X 72'' . It is foil on one side and a insulating material on the other. It's about 3/8s to 1/2'' thick . This stuff covers the rear hatch area and the foot wells . By covering the inner fenders and doors the drum effect is mostly eliminated. I also used ultimate inside the rear hatch . The stuff is easy to use and can be cut with heavy duty scissors or a razor knife. You will find that it is a peal and stick and once it is in place it is there to stay. Good product. Gary:cheeky:

On my '73 the vin number is stamped on the firewall on the driver side , left hand drive , just down from the top and toward center from the vac booster.

Welcome to the group . Good to have you aboard . Tejas Where is this ? I am not familiar with the name . Are you a Z owner and driver ? Gary

Gary , first of all be sure any on the hoses you use are for fuel and are rated for gasoline . Some times people will use heater hose or vacuum line. The return port on the tank is just above the supply port and by the sending unit for the gage. There is a small line that is supposed to lead to the evap tank that is located in back of the plastic finisher on the right side rear of the interior. This line should be connected to a 3 way valve up front just below the ignition coil. It is the fresh air return to the tank that supplies air when the fuel is removed and used . You will find three vent hoses that enter the cabin from the main tank and they are connected to the evap tank. Be careful not to kink the upper 5/8'' hose where it comes off the tank . Also take care when you disconnect the main filler hose. They are SPENDY ! Gary

:laugh: :laugh: HOW about Nissan Sport . They cover many different Nissan cars and do a good job on the early Z cars . Worth a look . Supposed to be on the stans this January. I have read and reread my Fall issue a number of times and have found it to be a good read . Gary

Adam , some of us Z drivers like the look of the over-riders plus they do help protect the hood and rear finisher and tail lights from the '' nudges '' in parking lots. I have both over riders and they are both in the attic. Personally I prefer the less is more look for my Z . I don't even have the rubber my bumpers . But that is just my own taste. Gary:D

Is it a over-rider that you are looking for ? Gary

With the vac line connected to the manifold vacuum it will cause the vac advance to go to full advance when you start the engine and retard when you open the throttle, and the vacuum drops . So connected this way when you set the timing and the line is connected , you will not get any more advance other than the centrifugal advance . There is a guy you might ask this question . Kim Blough , He owns IDAHO Z CAR , and is real sharp on this stuff and will have an answer for your Weber's. 208 466-0004 I only have his personal email address , sorry . Gary

My '73 build date 8/73 had cobbed wiring to the extent that I replaced the entire wiring in the car . I used a '72 Z loom . The only differences , is the '72 does not have intermittent wipers and the push button wind shield washer is different. I still haven't figured the wipers yet . However they work fine but only 2 speed. The rest of the wiring is a plug and play. That is if you use the total loom . '73 they started using large connectors instead of several small ones where the loom from the engine compartment connects to the dash and rear units. Also if you convert to the early loom the multi switch for the lights and wiper has different color wires and you will need to figure which goes to what there , but the later switch will work fine. I have had my Z back together for about 2 yrs and driven around 8K with no wiring trouble . EScanlon was a tremendous help with this . Gary

I don't have a part number but mine came off a '79 or 80 . It just needs to be from a carburated RX- 7 . You will need to make a simple mount . I used a length of 1/8'' X 1'' steel strap . I bought it a Home Depot and I used a couple of rubber grommets to insulate the pump from the metal to eliminate any sound . I can take a picture and send it to you if you want. Send me a PM with your email address . Gary

I have been running a RX-7 pump for several years.

I have been running a RX-7 pump for several years. It is quiet and pumps right at 5 psi. $15.00 at the bone yard . We tried it on a stroker engine running triple Mikuni and it supplied it great with no problem . I don't know what they are new . I added a oil pressure switch that cuts the power to the pump when the oil pressure drops below 5 psi. I am running SUs and I have not had any trouble starting even after the car has set for weeks . Inertia switch is a vary good addition as well. My friend had a electric pump fail and shorted . As soon as the oil pressure dropped the power was cut and saved the wiring and the possibility of a fire. The in line fuse and holder malfunctioned and didn't blow the fuse , which resulted in the melting of the holder. I am not running a mechanical pump. I also have '73 but with a ZX engine . Gary:knockedou

Sounds like the problem is with the #2 carb . I don't know a thing about Weber's so I cannot be of help there . Question do the Weber's have a filter or screen in the inlet to the float chamber ? The fuel rail is there so that the heated fuel gets flushed back to the tank rather than just sitting there over the exhaust manifold and boiling. There is a metering hole at the end of the fuel rail that keeps he pressure up in the system when the demand is greater . So it is not just a tubing that runs back to the tank . If at idle and the engine is running fine , can you shut it down and remove the float bowl cover and check the level , then do the same when the engine malfunctions . Just clutch it and turn it off and pop off the cover and see the fuel and compair . Just a thought. Gary :paranoid:

One more thing , the part the dist bolts onto that then is connected to the block , must be from a ZX . The 240 part will not allow you to set the timing correctly . Just a note , all the non turbo ZX engines used the same dist. The manual trans have a different advance curve than the automatic equipped Z . Centrifugal advance starts at 600 RPM and is at full advance at 1250. It takes 5.90 inches of vacuum to start the advance and will be at 9* @ 11.6 inches For a total of 17.5* . This is with the timing set at 0* BTDC . To identify which dist you have , there are numbers stamped on the centrifugal advance but you must remove the advance plate to see them . My '79 dist part number is D6K8-02 And I removed it from a manual trans Z . The numbers stamped on my cent advance are 7--- something and the automatic part are stamped with 9 something . It's been almost 6 years since I had it apart and not all the information is in my notes . Sorry , Gary

The pump that Arne has is good and should run quiet. Be sure to install a in line filter before the pump so if there is any crud in the tank it wont destroy your pump . Gary

I used a similar hold down like the red one you have . With the battery in place look at the firewall just above the top of it. There should be a threaded hole for a bracket. I used some 3/16'' thick one inch wide steel strap and bent it to a right angle and bolted it to the firewall and the hold down on that side and used a J bolt on the front side that hooks the lower support. I have been running this for the past 6 yrs . My battery was held in with a bungee cord and a block of wood when I bought the car . The OEM battery hold down is great but dosn't fit my battery . Gary

Are you aware that the Tach must be connected in order for the ignition to fire ?

Are you running the stock fuel pump? you might find that it is not providing enough volume because it is getting tired. I am running a electric pump from a RX-7 that I bought at a bone yard for $15.00 . and it works great and is quiet. They pump 5 psi which what you are looking for . If you go this route , just be sure to get one from a carbed car not injected. '79 or '80 I know are carbed. The fuel filter could also be your problem as was mentioned . Your car is wired for a elect pump already . I just added a oil pressure switch to kill the pump in the event of a accident or the loss of oil pressure . The RX pump will supply a set of triples on a stroker , in case you are wondering . Gary:)

Well here we go again ! For starters , dump the blunt stupid front end. Lower the profile of he car at the Firewall area and with a more angular sloping hood more like the 240z . Look at the Honda 2000 , and the RX8 , The Jag roadster has a similar look . the '' gumby '' look just doesnt do it. I prefer the in-line 6 my self, but if has to go , which I don't think it does. Give us a engine that has some balls . That doesn't need to spin to 6 or 8K to make power . We don't need power windows or door locks , a 6 speed instead , and a rear hatch area that is usable. Of course the modern up to date brakes and lighting . Air Cond. is a possibility but not a necessity. As to a radio have it as a option . Power steering is not that important either , but is OK . If the in-line 6 was to be used , how about duel over head cams and a flow though Hemi type head with multi valves. As long as we are wishing . I would really like to see the car NOT looking like a custom VW bug as it does now. Build a real sports car or abandon the whole program and build sedans and trucks . Mitsubishi , or Honda have designers that will fill the bill , at least I hope . Gary :classic:

How much coolant are you finding on the floor over night. You say you are finding it under the trans . Could it be coming from the rear of the head and running down the bell housing back on to the trans and down. If you had a problem with the trans cooler in the radiator most definitely you would have oil in the coolant . There is no coolant any where back of the engine other than the heater . You would find plenty of coolant on the floor on the passenger side. Is this a 240 with SUs ? If so there is a small metal line that runs from the intake manifold around the rear of the head and it connects to hose near the #6 spark plug. Check around there for a leak when you are checking the head to block seal . Gary

From the limited information given . you had a quart of coolant in the radiator ??? Check the oil in your automatic trans. Sounds like you have a problem with the radiator . The trans cooler in the lower tank may be leaking . if you find cooant in the trans oil , have it surviced right away