beandip

Before you just start replacing things . Determine what is the cause. Get under the car and find where the play is that is causing the shimmy . It could be from the rack bushings , or tie rods or wheel bearings as will a ball joints. You could have a tire out of balance or a flat spot on a tire . A bent wheel could be the cause . Depends on the condition of your suspension . It could be from a combination of all of these. Gary

Send Arne a PM he was giving away a ZX engine just last week . It needs a rebuild .

Welcome to the group of us . Likewise I have turned almost every bolt on my Z as well . I don't imagine you are driving your Z about now with all the white stuff. Have a Marry Christmas and a Prosperous New year . Gary

No the plastic thing is a vent. The fill plug you will find behind the moustache bar. Sorry. You might be able to pump oil in with a little pump used to fill the out/drive on a out board on a boat set up . They are cheep . That is if you can remove the fill plug . I changed mine before I installed the diff. Gary :knockedou

My top spring is green and the hooks are opposite also it is shorter. The lower spring has the hooks both facing the same way . What I do is I attach the lower spring to the shoes BEFORE I put the shoes onto the backing plate. Hope this helps. My Z is a '73 but the brakes should be the same. Gary:classic:

Thanks and right back at ya.

In all of this , keep in mind that the engine , as you said , was running fine before. So something has taken place to change things . The temp is one thing but with a drastic change in performance I don't think this is it . I recommend on zeroing in on the ignition and timing. Depending on what Distributor or ignition you are running . The breaker plate could be at fault as was mentioned before. If that has gone gunnysack it could cause what you are experiencing .There is a book that I bought at Amazon.com two actually . How to modify your NISSAN & DATSUN ohc Engine , by Frank Honsowetz. It has a whole section on Weber's. The other one is How to restore your DATSUN Z CAR , BY Wick Humble . Both books are Fisher Books . both are great how to sources. While you are looking for the problem check the fuel pressure , it should be around 4 to 5 psi. But I doubt it is low pressure that is the problem . If the previous owner has installed a fuel pump that is giving a higher pressure and has a pressure regulator It could have failed and higher than 5 psi could flood the carbs by overwhelming the float shut offs. This is my input. Gary

I am running 3.7s in my 240 and I like the gearing for street use. If I wanted my car for more hiway driving I think I would go with 3.54s . With a 5 speed the 3.7s will give you the best of both worlds . Forth gear will give you right at 3K at 60MPH

Not long ago I replaced all the seals on my Z . With Scanlons help . I had the local glass shop install a new windshield though. I have two in the attic but decided that the difference in having them install the new one and use my new old one wasn't worth not having a guarantee . The hatch glass as well as the windshield is a two person job. Hatch glass to my knowledge are no longer available so take care with it. Scanlon and I roped in the hatch glass and it went smooth . But he had done it before . When doing the quarter windows be careful with the metal frames when both removing the glass and old seals and reinstalling them. They can brake apart rather easy , so just take it slow and you will be OK . Another great source of information is Wick Humbles book '' How to restore your Datsun Z car" I have used mine extensively while doing my re-do of my 240 . Gary:classic:

If you are going to take her to the track I would for sure. Otherwise for street use the stock tank is OK . If you could find someone to build a cell that fit under the car and still allowed the spare tire . Then that would be great. I just cringe at having fuel inside the cabin . It's bad enough to have the filler hose pass inside the fender well. A major design flaw in my estimation. If the filler was inside a enclosure of metal to protect it from the inside the passenger compartment . That would be acceptable . But the way these cars are built , if you get hit hard in the right corner you could be french fried . G

The ballast resister is just for the old points dist setup to keep from frying the points. Just connect the two wires , the ones from each end of the resister , thus eliminating it . Also have you had this problem before the new ignition ? If so check the level of the floats in the Carbs and the fuel filters . You may be having a lean condition at the upper RPMs . If non of these things I mentioned then check the fuel pressure and under load . At Idle you should be seeing around 4 psi. not over 5 . Testing under load is tricky so be careful because it will require seeing the gage while driving at speed . If in doubt , change filters . Gary

I have a question . Is or Was the coil wire connection clean or was it corroded ? A bad connection can cause heat . Another thing, look inside the cap . See if there are any ''dusty'' deposits around the sides between the 6 contacts and have a look at the rotor for excess pitting. Are you running a stock coil ? Too hot of coil can cause this . Just a couple of thoughts . Gary

My yellow one came from Freddy's as well. Gary

Is the connection clean and free from corrosion ? Corrosion can cause a bad connection and arcing . Are you running a stock coil ? When you look inside the cap , do you find any brass ''dust'' or aluminum ''dust'' on the sides of the cap . As the case may be , depending on what the 6 contacts are made of . Gary

Just regular ATF . I use Castrol multi-vehicle .

I have a yellow one with no number . I don't know how to post the picture I took. So I am going to send it to Scanlon so he can for me . It has chrome front and rear bumpers . Looks just like my Z . Gary

If the leak is dripping from a hose in the rear of the tank as you said . This is a vent line . However this vent line connects to the tank near the top . There is another vent line that is connects to the lower section of the tank, in the back also . This one is on the driver side across from the muffler. If you replace these hoses be sure to use gasoline rated hose. Nappa carries 5/8'' hose that is for gasoline. Under NO CIRCUMSTANCES APPLY FLAME TO YOUR FUEL TANK. Using exhaust gasses from a engine and then using a torch to solder is asking for and explosion. and you will make he news at 11:00 . JB Weld is not effected by gasoline by the way . I have seen DRY ICE USED TO PURGE FUEL TANKS and it works. But it still is a gamble if you don't know what your doing. I personally have seen and dealt with the results of people trying all sorts of methods of purging gas tanks . As a Fireman assigned to rescue and engine companies in LA . A couple of guys saw God doing this. Tommo WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU THINKING ! I have a drawing of the tank and venting system showing all the lines. PM me if I can be of help . Gary

I also live at lower elevation around 350' . We are surrounded by two ranges of mountains but the driving in them is in the 3000' area. There is a small loss in power but not much . As far as starting , you will find that you need less choke as the thinner air richens the mixture . As for adjusting the mixture to a leaner setting . I would only do that if you were to move to the higher altitude to live. Certainly the difference for driving while on a cruse isn't worth the trouble. I am using 54 needles and if I were to move to Denver for an example I would most likely change to 58 needles wich are leaner and go from there . Gary:)

Danny , Welcome to the club . Although I live just across the river in Oregon we are all tied together by our love of Z cars. You will find that there is a wealth of information on tap here , from all over the would . Gary:classic:

Alan ,a few years ago , a friend of mine bought a 240 Z that had a L-20 block and a head with a number I had never read before . I don't remember the number now . After asking about this engine , on this site and Zcar , some one from Au told me that they had those engines there, is some of there cars. That it was a higher reving engine but didn't seem to hold up . Does this sound right to you ? My friend has since crashed the car and it is no more. But it was a good running car as long as he was able to drive it. Gary

they might , It depends of if the hole isn't to large. You could go to a yardage store and see it they have felt that is heavy enough . I think that mostly the felt is there to hold lubrication and to keep and to keep dirt from the pivot. How did the mice get into the cowl? What and where did you route the drains ?

If you do make this installation . Think strongly of a roll cage as will . With out one if you roll the car , you will be held in a upright position while the roof will collapse on you .

cris240turbo . THANKS FOR YOUR POST . I STAND CORRECTED . GARY:cry: