beandip

well you didn't state weather or not you are running carbs or injection. you mentioned chokes so I figure you are using SUs. I have a 280Zx using SUs and trying to start it with out using the choke when not previously warmed is vary hard. Using the choke she fires in about three revolutions when cold. Now having said this. What ignition are you running? Have you checked weather or not you are getting spark to the plugs? If not there is a clue. Go from there ,if you are using points , look there for burned or pitted points. Look at the rotor and cap. If corrosion on the contacts in the cap , scrape them clean . Look at the gap of the points as well . If I remember correctly they should be set at 18 to 20 thousands . With points , all of this looks OK it could be the condenser. it is the little silver cylindrical thing with a single wire coming out of one end . if this fails no spark at all . I hope some of this helps. Keep us informed in what you find and or what is causing the problem. Gary

so as you can see they are almost the same. My '73 tips the scales at 2400 LBs. with a half tank of fuel. With out the driver . Gary

when I ordered the floor pans from Zedd Findings I also ordered the rubber plugs. I wouldn't try fiberglass to cover the holes. Seen too much of the stuff allow water under itself and rust away the floors. Not a good fix. Gary:rambo:

When buying a Z there are many more things to look at than the suspension. Drive over some bumps and uneven pavement. this will tell you what you need to know in that area. Look for the rust by the battery and under the carpets , also on the corners of the sill at the rear hatch. The hidden rust is the killer. The suspension is all things that can be replaced and not as costly. If you see ANY blisters in the paint by the bottom of the front fenders or just in back of the doors down low in front of the back wheel. This is rust coming from the back side , not a good sign . Gary

240-fan . As long as you can take up the slack and tighten it properly . What you have now should be just fine. This is not a critical thing, besides you have two different width pulleys , which are you going to try and fit. As long as the belt is riding on the sides of the pulley and not at the bottom only you will be fine. my 2cts. Gary

I am seriously thinking of driving down from Portland Or. for the show. Gary

I am running a 2 1/2 '' Dyno-max turbo with no resonator. At idle is has a low rumble and sounds like a v-8 actually . But when I get on it , to me it sounds like a E-type Jag. She is Lauder than I like and I plan on installing a Thrush for a resonator. With the color of my Z she attracts enough attention so toning down a little will be a good move. At present I do have a drone sound from about 2K to 2500 when under load. Not bad but on a long trip it could be tiring. If I make the run to the Nationals I think the resonator will go in before. With headers and the large exhaust plumbing they most all have the drone to contend with . The resonator does help allot to eliminate it . Gary:knockedou

astrohog, I believe the name is ''dash-pot'' don't know why, and yes just remove it. My Z has just started the same thing, that is idleing at a higher rpm after driving . I haven't started to look for the cause . Seems as it is a common problem . I have zero emissions equipment on this engine , so that is not the trouble. It has just started do in this in the past couple of days. I had the linkage completely off the car when I was refreshing the car. All has been good since then , until now . I suspect the pivot mounted at the dash where the linkage attaches from in side the cabin. Like I said I haven't started playing with it yet. And it is NOT ignition related . Gary

Welcome to the club. There is a wealth of knowledge here. If this is your first time with a Carburated car, you are going to find it a different experience. Now you must do what the computer has been doing for you . Especially when starting and driving with a cold engine . I installed a ZX engine in my 240 and kept the SUs. I like the simplicity of the system and for a street only car, the performance is as good . Again welcome . Gary

Jim Coffey just went through this on his Z . maybe you should send him a pm and see if he will forward some of his pictures . this may be helpful. Gary

After I treated the underside of the panel with POR to seal it and repair the holes . I used some 1/4'' sill seal . It is the stuff used in construction for a water barrier between the bottom of a wall where it contacts the concrete foundation. It comes in a roll and you can find it at Home Depot or most any construction supply store . It is really cheep, I have found many uses for the stuff . I used silicone to stick it in place . Gary:rambo:

thanks moon ! Gary

I agree with Ed . Just replace it. From the factory these cars were equipped with gearing that was rather high. You might think of going to a lower gear and improving performance. Although having a young son that drives the Z this may not be a good idea after all. Gary:stupid:

Generally when when you see this on the surface the problem is that it has rusted through form the back. As hls30 said this is a simple fix because the panel can be removed . I had the same issue only not quite that bad. I was able to do he repair with POR using the mesh from the back side. Normally I don't condone using this for repairs , but this panel is not structural . Gary

tomo we are not talking about fenders ! Are you going to start asking questions about helmets next ?

I used Zedd Findings on my floors. I found them to be first rate. I recommend contacting Charlie Osborne, owner who is a real nice guy, and see what he has and what he says. I wish you all the best. Let us know what and how we can help . Gary

All you kids !! I have shoes that old. Turned 68 on Valentines day If I remember right. I need to find my calculator. Gary

Thanks guys for the info. Arne that would be a major bummer if I only made it to your brewery. My hopes were to have a info on a place in Sacramento , Bakersfield, Taft . Redding Like that . It was just a thought. I don't contemplate any trouble . Usually when we drive down , we stop somewhere after Sacramento . The next day it is a good shot to the LA area and Riverside. This may not come off . It is just something I would really like to do to visit my elderly Sister. And her family down there. Gary

I am contemplating a run down I-5 from Portland Ore to the Riverside Calif. area in May. If this comes off , I will be solo . This would be the longest run so far in my Z . What I am wondering is who in the club lives along the way , with in about 50 miles or so or I-5. Just in case the old girl has a hiccup, I would like to know if I have a fail safe place to tow too. My Hagerty Ins. will cover 100 miles on a flat bed. I can then figure out what is what and go from there . I do have access to a flat bed trailer if needed . A big hassle but if necessary this is what I would do and abort and bring her home. I really don't anticipate any trouble since I have gone through almost everything on the car. Still she is still 34 yrs old. Just trying to get my ducks all in a row. If I was traveling with a group it would be some what different. But being on my own it would be great to know I have a safe place to take the ole girl if there is a problem. Gary

I don't know about the paint on the head. As for the block. If you had it hot tanked I would still clean the hell out of every passage you can access. In the past I have used a 22 cal. cleaning rod with brushes and such on the oil passages . The hot tank should get 90% though. Gary

I have always heard the phrase as '' what in the SAM hell is that''? I am an old dude and my dad used that phrase as far back as I can remember , and that is a hell of a long time . Gary

Will , Great job on the posting. This is the kind of stuff that makes this a great web site . Thanks Gary

As enigma said . Hard lines are the safest. The metal lines ran in the tranny tunnel on the passenger side to keep them away from the exhaust heat . They extend forward from the tank to the front of the engine bay . At the radiator support the metal line stopped and rubber was used to connect to the filter. Again rubber to the mechanical fuel pump . Then rubber to the fuel rail which runs around the front of the valve cover and down the side of it . Each carb then has a rubber line connecting to the rail for supply . The fuel rail makes a 180 turn and now is a return line . It runs next to the supply back around the front of the engine and rubber line then connects it to the metal return back to the tank . The end of the fuel rail is closed off , but has a vary small hole that restricts the flow back to the tank and this keeps the pressure up in the system. The return line allows the excess unused gasoline to flow back to the tank and this also keeps the cool fuel from the tank supplying the carbs . Where your supply line is at the tank , right above it is the return line stub out. There is a vent line above this near the top of the tank . this runs to the evap tank . the evap tank then has a line that runs up front and ends on the driver side up under where he ignition coil is mounted . There it is connected to a diverter valve that has three outlets. One to the engine breather from the block . One to the stock air cleaner , this supplies clean air to the fuel tank . If pictures would help let me know . send me a PM Gary

Thanks Arne . I stand corrected . I knew it was either , that is why I said to check on it. Gary

You will find the needles in the SUs will be fine in the L28 as well. At least for me at a near sea level the 54s are better all around than anything richer . I tried 47s and SMs and they were far and above too rich. I had gas in my oil from those needles . Are you parting out a 280 or just buying the engine ? I would check about the 260 cam. I cannot remember it it was internally oiled or had a spray bar. This is important if you were tempted to make a swap . Seems to me the 260 cam had a slightly higher lift. As Roger mentioned. Gary