beandip

You have the mixture for altitude backwards. Hi altitude leaner. 58 needle instead of a 54. gogriz RX-7 fuel pump from a '79 or '80 at the u-pull-it $15.00 I like that price much better. They pump 4.5 to 5 PSI and lots of volume. I run one with no mechanical and have for 6+ yrs with no problem with carbs or lean issue from lack of fuel , or too much pressure. Put one on a stroker engine with triples and it fed it great also. After 5+ years of use I did have one fail. But had a spare and made the change. Gary They are almost silent also. Gary

I have one in my Ford truck 10+ years , I put one in the stock air cleaner on my 240 when I bought it 7 years ago . I swear by them Summit has them much cheaper than $60. but it's been a while . Gary

Don Anderson's white 240, and I would drive it over a dirt road in the rain. Just kidding. GaryROFL

It should be marked E-88

Mike has been doing things again. I haven't been notified of PMs for some time.

I thought for a min. that it was Tomo with his freeway helmet on. :stupid:

I think that this is great. It has gotten the effect it was meant to have. Everyone's attention. Years ago drag racing on the streets where there were no side streets and no homes and the car maybe got up to 70MPH this is one thing. These cars are doubling that speed and more. Neither case was right but these guys are racing in town and on city streets. Here in my state if you are found going 100 or more on the hi way , $1000.00 fine and 3 days in the can. Likely a suspended license and more depending on the infraction. Of course the car was impounded this alone cost a few hundred , in addition. I say it is about time. Gary:rambo:

Give braap a PM . He is a engine builder that has been on the cutting edge of this stuff and is a guru on injection and head work. He is a member here and has his own business building engines and doing head work and R&D. His work is known internationally. Paul's shop is in Sandy Oregon. Gary

I really don't know where you are going with this , but at the recent Canby Show there was a 280 there that had Weber intakes with individual injectors on each tube. Also I think he was running a Wolf ignition which also has a coil per spark plug. I didn't hear the engine run but the builder of the car said that the performance was outstanding. He owned his own shop , I think in Washington. Gary

If needed , send me a PM I still may have pictures of the pump and how I mounted it on my Z . It is no big deal and easy to do.

No it is not ignition hot. there is a in-line fuse under the dash on the driver side up on the left by the radio. Contact EScanlon he is the guru on all of this. He is the electrical guy and he helped me with my Z. We worked it out and it works great. He can tell you what color wire to fine and how to connect it. The green wire is the hot. I did connect a pressure switch to activate the pump when the oil pressure reached about 6 PSI. this is a safety measure . Only will cost you about $6.00 and may save your engine , car or life.

This is the reason Nissan went to the electric pump in '73 , mostly. If you look under your car by the tank sending unit , you should find two wires rolled up and taped with blue tape. These are the factory wires for a electric pump. I don't know about a '70 but the other 240s have them there. Follow the wires going to the sending unit back towards the rear of the car. One thing about the mechanical pump is they do get hot and they do heat the fuel coming from the tank. With the fuel lines running along the engine and over the manifolds there is a lot of heat . This can cause the gas in the lines to boil and this causes what you are describing. The electric pump , being in the rear of the car remains cooler and continues to pump cooler fuel. This pushes the unused fuel that is heated back to the tank through the return line. This helps greatly to alleviate this problem.

I am a advocate of using the RX-7 pump. I have used one for years with good results on my Z. I am running SUs and the pump puts out 5psi. and so far I haven't had any trouble with the extra pound of pressure. We tried one on my friend's engine with triple mikuni's and it fed them just fine . The pump is quiet and if mounted with rubber you cannot hear it going when the engine is running. Bone-yard prices $15.00 . Mount it back by the tank and use a in line filter between it and the tank. I did add a pressure switch on my oil sender port so that the pump only runs when there is over 7psi oil pressure. Otherwise on a 240 the pump will run as long as the key is on. If you crash this could be a big problem. Gary

If you are only having exhaust fumes in the cabin when the window is open. Try adding some length to the tip of the exhaust pipe so that it extends about 2 1/2 inch past the bumper. Now for the hatch seal, take a slip of paper about 6'' long and 2'' wide, and close the hatch on it and see if you can slide it easily. Do this all around the hatch especially on the sides and across the bottom. If there is a opening this will allow the fumes into the cabin. What was said about the tail lights and other things is right on. Also If you have not vented the valve cover properly and have gone to one of the little filters there instead. This can account for fumes in the cabin as well. From what you have described you may have a combination of things going on . Do check the hatch and extend the tail pipe . Gary

I am running 54 needles in my SUs with a automatic. I did pick up a set of 3 screw SUs a while back and they had the #58 needles used in automatics. Now, these carbs came from Colorado and could have been used because of the high altitude. I don't know but the 58s are leaner. I was running 54 needles on my L-24 motor and now on my 280 ZX engine. I am also running headers and a street cam . I tried different needles and found the 54s work the best. SMs and 47s are WAY to rich and fuel diluted my oil in the crankcase with them. Now all is good both in performance and mileage . My 2cts. Gary

I think what EScanlon has said about the goop is right on and in fact , it is a good thing to coat the hatch seal boots even if they are not torn. Most all of these boots are brittle by now after all these years and coating them before they do crack is a good preventive measure. I was able to find a set of boots on a '75 280 in the boneyard and this is what I did and so far so good. Gary

If you balance the carbs at a 750 to 800 RPM and set the mixture then find the unbalance at 2K or so . If the vacuum pistons are free and sliding free. I would look to the springs that suppress the vacuum piston. they must be allowing the vacuum pistons to lift at the same rate to maintain the balance. If one of the electronic gurus could come up with a small camera that could watch the pistons rise and fall while driving to compare this . We could set them exactly. It's a possibility one of the springs have been stretched while cleaning or something . This would cause more pressure on the piston keeping it lower, or slower in lifting. I don't know if the springs are available at the Dealer or not but you could contact Steve at ZTherapy. Gary

So you got it for free. give them to someone that has a P-79 head and get the proper one for your engine. Like Arne said , the idea is to improve the flow not restrict it . If someone gave you a free muffler from a MG would you use it on your Z because it was free. Gary

What seems to be the trouble? Are you having a problem fitting a wrench to the nuts holding the u joints in place , or are they rusted in place? You will find that you do need to rotate the shaft and attack one nut at a time as the clearance is tight to apply the wrench. Use some PB Blaster or Kroil to the nuts if they are at all rusted. If one u joint is failing the others will not be far behind. I would change them all. Gary

What Palmer said is true about plugging the vents to the float bowls. Clean air is important , this is another reason to vent them into the air cleaner. Now to your question of vacuum lines . The front carb. has a port that is for the vacuum advance on the Dist. , one line must go to the vacuum booster on the master cylinder. The vent line with the PVC valve comes from the block and is attached to the intake balance tube. The vent from the valve cover is supposed to also connect to the air cleaner. If you add one of the little cute filters to this vent it is likely you will have fumes in the cabin. When run into the air cleaner the engine will burn these fumes. The stock air box has tuned velocity stacks installed for performance also , another reason to use it. One more thing , there is a fresh air return line that runs form the gas tank to the front of the car. It runs to the driver side up to where the ignition coil area is. On a 240 it connects to a divert valve . One small 1/4'' hose connects to the air cleaner and supplies fresh clean air to the main fuel tank as needed , one connects to the crankcase vent . This little valve is a one way valve that allows air to the tank and will restrict flow from the tank. If this is blocked the fuel tank will starve for air as the gas is drawn to the engine. Unless the seal is bad on the gas cap. If you don't use this valve or do not run the supply line to a clean air source dirt will be drawn into the tank. Be SURE to use gas rated fuel line , not vacuum line for all gasoline use. Injection rated gas line is not necessary because you are only dealing with at most 5 psi. Gary The OEM fuel rail has a function as a metering of the return line to the tank. The return line is important so that cool gas keeps running through the supply to prevent ''vapor lock'' .

I must say, EScanlon did my door panels and dogleg panels as well . I think mine are the ones he is referring to . After 3 years they are still looking as good as when he finished them. I think that they look so close to new it is hard to till that they have been redone. I know it was time consuming to do but did come out great. Thanks again E. Gary

I agree with Arne, charge the Battery and drive down and have the charging system checked. This will tell you if it is the alternator or the regulator. As for changing both if one is faulty . This is totally up to you . I would just cure what is causing the problem. Incidentally don't leave a battery discharged long. It effects the ability for it to recharge completely. Gary

As long as this thread has been dredged up again. I eliminated the evap tank about 4 years ago and have had zero fumes from gasoline in the cabin and or any trouble filling the tank. All is working vary well. I was having some fumes , exhaust , but have since found that when I extended the tail pipe another 3/4'' out from the bumper all seems well. There was mentioned of a Copper 180 bend being fabricated to do away with the need for the spendy formed hose. This was/is made with 1/2'' copper pipe fittings , not 1/4''. Big difference. This part only handles fumes for the most part and is connected at both ends with rubber hose. One to the tank the other to the vent line. No stress on the fitting at all. The small vent line that exits the tank above the sending unit connects to the line that goes to the front of the car on the driver side. just like stock. It provides all the air needed to replace the volume of fuel used by the engine, plus with it connected to the air cleaner it also takes care of fumes exiting the tank when parked. The major problem that I can find with copper used with gasoline or diesel, this is through reading not personal use, is because of vibration when used as fuel line . Like 1/4'' in size. The property of copper bending and flexing it will fail in relatively short order and crack or split. The 1/2'' size mounted in a flexible hose at each end there is no flexing or stress involved. Copper is used for household heating with diesel/heating oil, all the time, and has been for many years. My previous home was heated with this and the copper,3/8'', was installed in 1926. Gary

Hi , sports fans . At last count there will be 8 Zs at the Road Side Rest on I-5 and we leave at 9:30 sharp. For anyone that is coming from the Beaverton / Hillsboro area there is a group of us meeting at the Arco station at Hi way 26 and Cornell. Across from the entrance to Oak Hills and leaving there at 9:00 sharp to meet the others on I-5. there is forecast showers , which could mean sunny . What ever we wont melt , Right ? It will be great to see everyone and put a face to a name. Looking forward to the show it should be great. Gary

With my Euro springs and G-2s I removed 2 1/2 coils from the front and 1 3/4 from the rear. I am at almost dead level. If I were to do it again I would take 1 1/2 from the rear instead. This will give you a slight rake . My Z measures from the center of the wheel down to the ground from the bottom edge of the fender. 25 3/8 on the front and 25 1/5 on the rear. I have 195/70 14 tires. I did install bump stops on all four struts. The ride is firm but not harsh . Gary