beandip

It was mentioned that the ZX ignition can fail with out notice. This true, I had one module fail on me. The engine just quit . Out of the blue. No missing , stumble nothing . I got out and took a look to see if a power lead or something was he trouble . finding all intact tried to restart the engine and she fired right up and I had no further trouble , for about 3 months. It failed again and this is when I found the problem. I changed the module , 15 min. tops. I have had no further problems . This is going on 4 years . I do keep a module for a spare in the glove box with a stubby Philips . Just in case. So far no further trouble. I used this ignition on my L-24 as well as my present ZX engine with vary good results. It is amazing how much better the engines run with this ignition. Gary:nervous:

First off the '81 is a ZX block. Same displacement but if from a NA car it has flat topped pistons . Unlike your '77 block. The head will either be a P-90 or 90a if a turbo engine or a P-79 if NA . This is the last evolution in development of these in-line engines. The casting of the ZX F-54 block is different in that the water jackets are different . Supposedly making the block stronger. I don't know if this true as I have only read this info. I am running a '82 ZX in my 240 with SUs and am vary happy with the change. Also the later heads have the preferred shaped combustion chambers. The exhaust ports on the 90 head are square and the 79 , diamond shaped. With .030'' off the 79 head gave me 9.4 to 1 compression. Not that high but I can still run mid or regular fuel. Gary Hope this helps.

As was mentioned. Buy the Club's CD . You will find dealing with the parts guy at the dealer, they will be MUCH more cooperative if you have the part numbers for any of these old Z cars parts. I think the cost for a fender is about $300.00 the same for a hood. No 280Z hoods are available only 240's. As per my friend that just is finishing his '71. His dealer had the hood in stock. I did hear that the front finders are being made in Korea , for Nissan.

If anyone is interested in the Canby Show go to www.datsunsnw.org Gary:nervous:

Canby is a all Datsun show , put on by Datsun Northwest in June . It is in Canby Oregon , just south of Portland. It's been a 3 day affair in the past . Haven't heard any details yet for this year but we should soon after New Years . People come from all over to attend and enter there cars. Canada to Calif. Sunday is the show and is the last day. Congrats on the ''new'' Z I hope your dream car doesn't turn into a nightmare. Just remember we are here to help. Gary

This a new one. I have never heard of baffles or a pumpkin leaking oil like this . Is this a R-200 or a 180? Please do keep us informed in what you find. Gary:ermm:

In my opinion , matching numbers is over rated. It is for show cars that are original completely. If your wanting a complete original Z don't modify ANY THING. If you change from stock they you are modified. I redid my Z for ME and gave the L-24 away. I am running a F-54 from a '82ZX and am vary happy with the result. I know I will get some flack for this opinion , but such is life.

There in Nampa , there is a super guy that knows all you need to know about Z cars. Idaho Z Car. Kim Blough is the owner and he is a great guy. 208 466 0004 I am thinking that he may have shut down the shop over the Holidays but give him a call. Gary:rambo:

John, The new ignition is NOT the fault. Ha ha . Give the wife a kiss , I can just picture the situation. Ha ha. as was described look to the bottom of the door for parts, simply something has come loose and caused the glass to become jammed. Your biggest problem is your lovely second half. Lets go fishing. Ha ha Gary

Jon, I can't tell about your specific lights . I am running H-4 also, I know my bulbs are too hot for legal street use. However I have been running them for almost 3 years with no problem. I think mostly it's because the pattern of light they throw. On low beam the light is extremely bright up to just over hood level . Then there is a ''line'' so that above this level I don't blind the on coming traffic. I am running 90/100 bulbs. One thing about using H4s , if you don't upgrade the wiring you WILL destroy the combo switch and the fuse block. Do this up grade as it takes the load off the OEM wiring and the switch only handles about 5 amps. One of our members makes a harness that is a direct plug and play and it is a great unit. Gary

hi Marty, My '73 had both ! so go figure. I have the collapsible in the car and the non in the garage. Gary I just remembered the decal showing the tools in the compartment shows the non collapsible chocks.

You just need to check for vacuum leaks , check the vacuum advance to see if it is working properly. Change the filters before you start messing with the SUs. Especially if you are not knowledgeable with their adjustment. They are not hard to adjust, it is that you can easily have them so out of whack you wont know if the problem is ignition , vacuum leak or carbs. Eliminate one possibility at a time , not all three at the same time. Gary:rambo:

First off ATF is 5wt oil. What is recommended by Nissan is 20w , I use this and find that it works the vary best in my Z. What are the ''plates'' that need cooling?? Sounds like you have a serious vacuum leak if the plugs are burned bad in that short of a run. Use NGK bpr6es plugs. I have no idea about the timing . What is it set at? Are you running a stock dist with points? Or electronic ? Makes a difference. The dampeners in the carbs only hold about 3cc of oil. You cannot over fill them because any excess will be burned by the engine with no harm done. If you have 10w30 you can get by with that . 20w can be found at a cycle shop , ask for fork oil. Stock 240 dist set the timing at 10*btdc . ZX dist can be set at 15*btdc The reason for the engine going flat at 3K and above could be clogged fuel filters. If this is a '73240 there is a in line filter between the electric fuel pump and the gas tank as well as the one on the inner fender in the engine bay. I would change them both in any event. Gary

Congrats on the Z. and welcome to he club. You stole it by the way. $200.00 and drove it home ? Yes you stole the car. Hopefully the rust issues are not to serious. Best thing is to get her in a garage and out of the weather. These are the cars collectors are looking for to do a restoration. Unfortunately a restoration will run you around $20,000.00 to complete . Many things have to fall in place also. Does the engine serial number match the tag on the inner fender? If the numbers match , this is a good start. Not vary important if you wish a car to drive and show, and if this is your desire the cost as well as the value is much less. If you have any questions on working on your Z , just ask. Also use the search feature on the site and you will find a wealth of info. Again good find , enjoy the ride. Gary

Well with the car just sitting all this time the likely hood of the fuel tank being rusted and full of crud is high. If the Z is stock , it has a electric pump near the gas tank . In between the tank and the pump there is a in line filter. This could likely be clogged. If you turn your key to the run position you should be able to hear the pump running , also you should see some activity in the filter up in the engine bay on the inner fender above the alternator. The mechanical fuel pump mounted on the engine should be able to draw gas through the electric pump working or not. You should change the oil and filter in any event because it it must be contaminated by this care of the car. The electric pump could be frozen with rust from condensation collecting in the tank.

Dave , welcome to our group , as has been said before , have a good look around the site . If you have ANY questions do ask. As for Bravo-6 stop rubbing in with you in the middle of summer you lot. Gazza , By the way if you do find a Z that you are really interested in , post it if you would like one of us to have a look for you. This way you can have an uninterested non biased opinion from a Z driver that has been there and done that.

Warrenz,xray. I have been dealing with much the same issues. I even changed fuel pumps ,electric, and vacuum advance pot. Mine had a slow leak. Still could only get to 3K and she started shooting ducks! If I kept my foot in it at 4k she flat quit. I am running 3 screws now so I pulled them and re adjusted the floats. At .500'' as per Steve at ZTherapy . So far now she will rev past 4500 and seems fine in this respect , but I am experiencing a flat spot off Idle. By the way 20w oil is available at the Cycle shops. It is used for the front forks. It comes in various weights. I have only found it in qts. and this will last you a life time. I have been using it for years. I read a interesting article in today's paper about the gas we are getting , especially this time of year. This was for boat owners but applies to us all. Seems the additives and ethanol we are forced to use , especially in the winter , evaporates off rapidly and if you store your car or fuel for as short as 3 months . Residue forms that is difficult to remove. It clings to the screens and filters and plugs them. They were stating that it is best to have the tank full or completely empty . Preferbly full to avoid collecting moisture. Using stabilizer is recommended for even a 3 month storage. About the issue of turns of the mixture on the SUs , 2 1/2 has always been the starting point on everything I have read. This is just to get the engine started. Much depends on how tight the throttle shafts are, how much vacuum leaking is there. Do you have the needles mounted flush as recommended in the manuals. This can cause your richness on the rear cylinders if that needle is set too deep. Just a thought. Gary

Will do you still have what you need for the hatch hinge seals? Gary P.S. I can remove my hatch and send you that set if you need them again , but I rather not unless it is necessary. Gary

What ignition are you using? Points ? This makes a difference also. ZX dist. on my engine , the timing is set at 15* BTDC . My old Points dist. I set at 10*. With either one make sure the vacuum advance pot is working correctly and the vacuum line is not leaking. These things along with the wrong plugs all can cause a stumble. These things are easy to check , if all is good then adjust the floats in the carbs , but if they just came from ZTherapy the floats should be right on. Steve sets them at .500" at assembly. However mistakes can happen. Gary

If you are using light weight oil in the dampeners this can cause a stumble coming off idle. I had this problem, and after much checking and trying this and that . I went with what Nissan recommends , 20 wt. and that solved the problem. I am not saying this is your problem , but you might think about what oil in the dampeners. ATF AND Mystery oil are both 5wt. They say that 10w 30 will work as a substitute for the 20 wt. I don't know, that haven't tried it. 20wt. can be found at a Motor Cycle shop, it's used in the front forks. Gary:rambo:

If you have checked the fuses with a multi meter and they are good then look for bad ground , then connectors that are corroded . from there look for broken power wire. Over the years I cannot tell you how many times we have looked at a fuse and it looked good when it wasn't and it caused us to go nuts trying to find another problem. When all along it was the fuse we looked at first. Gary

In the original thread I mentioned that I used lacquer on the plastic. That was around 2002 . Since then there have been some damage to the finish by a slipped crescent wrench on the wheel nut by someone who will remain nameless . There are a few scratches also. Since it is lacquer I will only wipe it clean with the scratchy sponge pad from the kitchen and some Joy. And respray more lacquer . no need to remove the other finish. I agree with using Spar Varnish that is by far the most durable , but 5+ years on the lacquer isn't bad. Actually the vary first issue of the Sport Z magazine had a how to article. This is about the same time I did my wheel.

Have you pulled the front fenders yet? the cowl drains are a problem area just in front of the doors. The hidden space holds moisture and rust out the leading end of the rockers. If this happens the wet drains back and takes out the rocker and dog leg.

Just a thought , when you check the fuses use a multi meter. So many times the fuses look good when there not. Gary