beandip

Scanlon bid on the thing, He just cant pass up a roadster! After seeing this car I have changed my mind about color and am painting my Z blue.

:classic: rattle gun , here we call them an impact wrench , the gloves I am speaking of feel like you are wearing a leather work glove , only that you could still pick up a coin or washer with them on. they fit snuggly on the hands and will flex and streach with your movement. If you have ever had to change a fan belt on a hot engine or banged your knuckle against the fins of the radiater, you know the value of doing just that with zero injury. This is just a product that I found vary useful and thought I would pass on the information . :classic:

It must be in the weather , I just posted this . The fuel pump from a RX-7 that is NOT INJECTED works great I got mine from a '79 . $15.00 but be sure that the RX was not injected most important. :classic:

Glad you got her going. I cant remember are you injected or carbed. If carbed. an alternative pump that works vary well is one form a R-X7 as long as the rx was carbed and NOT INJECTED. The injection pump puts out too much pressure for carbs . I found mine on a '79 rx at the bone yard for $15.00.

4 barrel carbs, they work great on V-8s because they set right in the center of the engine. Multis work the best on inline engines just like cary67 found out. What are you wanting the car for ? A full out raceing or street driver , or for looks and racer wanta be ? The SUs will deliver all the fuel needed for any street driven L engine , if the right needles are used. Tripples will give more power if you are running a cam and headers and large plumbing running high Rs most of the time. Other wise properly tuned doubles . There is a guy running in the 12s using SUs , and he drives the car on the street, Normthe12secdude he is on Zcar.com all the time . Check him out . Good luck:bunny:

from what I have been reading the thing to do is leave the liners in place as they flow fine with them and the little if any improvement in the removal isnt worth the effort. I have left mine in and I will post what happends , when I get on the road. This is a P-79 on a F-54 flat top running 9.5 to 1 and SUs . :classic:

go the the engine site and scroll down to compression ratio posted by shotmi or something like that . check it out.:classic:

have you checked on the insurence? especially when they see the roll cage ! Another thing the p o is a younger dude and if he has been spinning high revs in the 30 year old engine and if it has alot of miles since a rebuild it could be a gernade . I know that you are excited over the car and I cannot blame you , take the advise given by us and step back and take deep breath and a good look with your dad. At the price it is indead tempting , but what are you going to do if you are faced with a $ 500.00 or more repair bill after you bu t the car. If you have rust repair to do y ou are looking at MUCH more than that . Be sure to pull up the carpets on both sides and rear hatch area and look for any rust, as will as in the spair tire well. I have minimal rust to take care of and can do alot my self and I could be looking at about $1000. 00 . Just for rust . Good luck and keep us posted on what you find. :classic:

what the heck is a rattle gun ??? these gloves are made of a spandex type of material that streches and is covered over the palm and fingers withe a rubber type material that grips well and is thin enough to allow dexterity, but thick to avoid some injury to t he hands . If a wrench slipps I dont bang my knuckles or cut my hands , I keep a pair in the spair tire well in the Z , and one in the truck , just in case I have to change a flat . If I am working on the car they protect my hands from the dirt grease or what ever . They are not heat proof but help if working on a hot engine. They dont seem efficeted by gas or oil. I clean mine whin I wash my hands with the gloves on with the orange hand cleaner then rince and let dry . I found mine at costco for 2 pair pack $24.00 In the parts store they run $19.00 each pair and up. they are a great product .

all I can do is to send the info as a link . send me your e address and Ill send the link . Sorry:ermm:

I found it here on the classicZ.org site last nite I will see where and let you know. When I bring it off of my favorites the address I posted comes up , I dont know what gives I ll try again .

http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/head2html sorry I missed the / after com

I 'll look it up and try it again . must of copied it wrong sorry

:classic: I just came accross this site last nite , I was looking for information on compression . I am installing a p-79 head that is milled .03 on a 54 flat top block . I figure that it will net about 9.5 to 1 . check out this site . geocities.comrow4navy/head2html see what you think , there is a lot of good info. there. Gary :classic:

someone , like Mike said , did a lot of hard work to make it that ugly . I havent seen one of thoes kits before. I hope that I dont see another one. :sick:

I dont think it makes any difference in performance. Resister pluggs are for radio clearity. I have never seen any datia showing any loss of power using either .

Before you reinstall the pan check to see that the mating surface , the bolt holes do not protrude from being tightened too much. If not flat you can fix with a hammer to straighten . :classic:

adding a bullet muffler behind the collecter will quiet things a bit , I was told by the manufacture to use masking tape on the tail pipe from the collecter back to the diff. . Run the engine up to about 2K or where the resonence happends and hold the rpm at that point for about 1 min. then check to see where the tape is burned and that is where to place the resonater. this placement is important to the removal of the resonance. my 3c

for starters is this enging going in a early Z and using zero emissions stuff? If thats the case , almost all of the enissions stuff was connected to a vac line some where make sure the vacume line connections at the engine end are plugged off. One thing the vacume advance on the dist. does NOT take manifold vac but carb vacume. I have zero experience with webbers or there manifolds, was this the set up that you were using before on the old engine ? Do you have the brake booster connected ? you said the car is a stick I believe , if not there is a vacume line to the automatic trans. . Other than these things get some carb cleaner and spray around the carbs and intake manifold with the engine running at idle if you can, and you should see a change in RPMs if you spray cleaner on vac, leak.

they stopped having them here also thats why when I saw them yesterday I bought two packs one for me one for a gift. If you want I can pick up a set and ship them to you.

WHERE IS PLESENTON? WE NEED TO GET TOGETHER!

this is somthing rather new to me . Mechanicx gloves sounds WUSSS but if you havent tried them you are missing out! They have them at Costo for $24.00 for two pair , thats a hell of a deal . I have seen the same thing for $20.00 a pair! I know it sounds like a lot of money but believe me you wont be sorry. I bought a secound double pack just because they may not have them again . you know costco. The first time you avoid a busted knuckle you will thank me. I was working on the floor and with the raw edges of cut sheet metal I have zero cuts . And y ou can wash them , when you wash up keep the glooves on and use the orange stuff on the gloves the on your hands . I sound like a comertial but I have no connection with these things other than biing impressed withe the product . my 4c

putting some heavy grease around the throttle shafts ends and where they extend out the side of the carb should show the difference , another way to find a vac. leak is to spray around the carb with carb cleaner with the engine warmed and running and you will see a change in rpm when you hit a leak. less of a mess. I dont want to deminish the good of the color tune , I use mine and I think that it is great , and it lets you see what is happening at upper r p m . and you can varify what you have adjusted the carb to. rich or lean. Come in real handy when trying different needles , you can see the flame in the chamber up to 3000 RPM .

It has vacume leak writen all over it. Dont have a clue what you dident re connect in the way of smogg stuff but I shure would start there. Good luck make sure you have an extinguisher at hand , things could get exciting. Timing to advanced could cause the backfire thru the carbs , so could be lean pop due to too much air , vac. leak. or some thing disconnected.

don't close it up so it can vent. If you dumped all the fuel out it will be fine, if you store it in a garage. I dont know if you hunt , but when you go into a vary cold envirement you never want to take the firearms into the cabin or whatever , and then back out side . the rapid change in the temp will cause condinsation and will freeze when you go back to the cold. Same thing applies here , condsation shouldent be a problem because the temp change is slow, and if vented it will be fine.:classic: If you are concerned do as was posted and spray the ol WD another thing you could do is slosh in some Marvel to coat and drain out, good for the engine too when you fill er up.