beandip

check the ground wire . If you have connected a charged batt to the car and get nothing , you have an open circut. Start with the batt cables are they croded , some times even down inside the plastic they are bad , take a close look. check the fuseable link and see if it is good. and the main connections. try connect the jumper hot wire to the hot connection on he starter and the neg from the jumper to the neg batt terminal and see if that helps. that will tell you if the cars + cable is bad. If nothing then connecet the jumper - cable to the ground and the + to the batt and see if the cars - cable is good. That eliminated check the fuseable link with a continunity meter and see if it is good . With an intermittent open like this you just need to keep checking and moving connections and then trying to start the car eliminating possabilities as you go. there should be a ground wire from the engine to the body most likely the firewall be sure that it is in tact. I hope I have given you some ideas to work with , all the best Gary

your vac advance is shot if you suck on the hose and then block it off with your tonge and it dosent hold vacume. The best advise I can give is to dump the points ignition and go electronic. I went to a zx ignition from a '79 and it is a vast improvement, used the '79 coil also. and dumped the ballest resister so now the ignition is on 12v not 8. Here is some thing to keep in mind, the key switch has a start detent and a run detent. When the key is turned to start the coil gets 12v and when you release the key and it goes to the run detent the coil is receiving 8 v. If the switch is bad sometimes it's the run side and the engine will start but when the switch goes to run side and the contact is shot or dirty the engine dies. Keep this in mind when you have installed the new ignition and if you still have the same problem . Make sure the engine block is grounded to the body also. run a ground wire to the firewall from the engine.

you might think of going to studs insted of bolts. any way the smaller bolts tighten to 10 to 13 lbs and the larger ones 25 to 36 lbs. remember the 10mm bolts are two lengths the shorter ones go into the center holes and the longer ones in the outer holes.

I dont know didily about webbers . But first of all you need self control or your going to get everything screwed up and not know where to start. You know that the dist. is not correct so why are you messing with the carbs ? Fix one thing at a time other wise you wont know what is causing what. Not a good idea to be driving with a loose dist. you could bend a rod or blow a piston. Which is ok if you want to do a complete rebuild. Get the correct mounting for the dist. check the fireing order and the plug wires to see if they are correct. and then start the engine and set the timing. once that is done then work on the carbs. If you eliminate one thing at a time you will make progress but if you are adjusting three things at a time you wont know what is doing what. All the best of luck . Gary:classic:

I faver the loss of oil pressure cut off switch but I just had a thought on some cars the seat belts have a locking device that is triggered when the car is up set or in a impact . How are they done is it electrical or mechanical ? Running a electrical impact device like sjcurtis has is a vary good option . Being the early Z had no warning lights to wire to a relay I think that is out unless you could find the senser that controlls this and wire it in. I will have to talk to escanlon on that one. Thanks guys for the imput , if any one else has and Idea here chime in .

In my l-24 I was getting 23 MPG on the hiway and am running 65 MPH or more. and 18 to 19 in town depending on how I push it, and it is an automatic. Will see with the new engine , it's a f-54 flat top 9.5 comp with SUs. I was pleased with the 23 on the road. Brett my '73 has 15 gal. tank. I guess if you want high milage , go honda or geo metro. These cars were never ment to be a high milage car. Remember in the '70s cars were getting 8 to 10 MPG so a sports car that performed and got in the high teens and mid twentys on the road was pritty good. Untill the emissions people moved in and screwed everything up. Its only been the last few years that we can get any performance out of the new iron.

I have a question and a delima. I am running a electric pump only and all is great , however as long as the key is in the on or start position the pump is running! I want to change this because of the fire hazzard in a crash , especially in the case of an overturned situation. Does any one know of a oil pressure shut off switch that would cut the power to the fuel pump when there is a lack of oil pressure ?? Not a bad idea in any event . Or a different approach like a mercury switch that would do the same thing and cut the power . It just seems unsafe the way it is now.

Check the fuel rail and line to see that it is not in contact with the engine or as brett said not against the water hose. In stall a electric pump, the factory did this starting in '73 . your car is wired already for a electric pump back by the tank where the fuel line comes from the tank you will find the wires rolled up and taped. I installed a pump from a RX-7 they work great and are cheep at the bone yard , just make sure that it is from a carberated car NOT FUELINJECTED.:classic: this should cure vapor lock.

As far as the oil pressure is concerned , get a nissan sender they work and are as accerate as these things can be. To really tell what the pressure is you need a mechanical gague, but the correct sender will tell you where you are. On the rich running , If you are at all aquainted with the SUs be sure the choke cables are adjusted so when t he lever is all the way forward the adjustment "knobs" for the mixture is all the way up. check the little hoses at the bottom of the carbs if they are stiff replace them as they will cause the choke adjustment to stick in a lower position and will dump fuel into the engine. If all of this stuff is ok and you still have the problen . Turn the mixture adjusters counter clock wise to the stop and back down , clock wise, 21/4 turns . that should get you close on the mixture . You MUST buy a uni-sun to ballance the air of the carbs . That is a must. Those fuel lines are small and the fuel lines at the parts store are too large and to stiff. DO NOT USE VACUME HOSE ! Z therapy has the hose. and you can try Nissan. Another place is a cycle shop. They may have a uni-sun also. I bought mine a the local parts store speed parts section. $25.00

why dont you just run a toy ota pump

is this new or has it been there all along ? Have you recently changed any of the emissions hoses or altered the pcv systime? Can you hear more exhaust sound than before. Have you changed or removed any of the hatch seal or tail light seals. what about the vent line from the valve cover? Any of these things will cause you to have fumes in the cabin.

what are you running injection or carbs , SUs or triples :stupid:

Shure I did , any way I am planning on going unless some thing comes up . I could bring a couple of front fenders just as an honorable mention sort of thing. Just so the ol blister is represented. I know Scanlon is planning on going , he has been polishing the zorro mobile for days. He has more z's on that car than Rip Van Winkel. :stupid:

with a stock L-26 block stick with 21/4 the largest . It is true you will give up low end with the bigger pipe. Now if you did some head work and cam and maby triples then you could benifit with the larger 2.5. I am running a 280 with a milled head and street cam and electronic ignition, headers and a 21/5 exhaust and wish I had the 21/4 . I dont run on the track and on the street I dont push the Rs close to red line and so the low end is where I want the power band. :classic: my 2c

There are several of us going to Blue lake all Datsun day and show on the 8th of this month ,This coming Sunday , hope PDX_z will make it.

:classic: I agree with 2many on the bemers although for looks and styling the Jag roadster is really fine. But to have and to hold it's the beamer.

Sorry the sway bar will not work. I just went through the same thing only my '73 has the brackets. The sway bar that will work is from a early '74. the 280 bar is stright and will not clear the diff, the bar from the early 260 has a bend in it so it well clear. I have heard that there is an aftermarket unit that will work but havent seen one. If you weld on the 73 brackets then look for a vary early '74 . good luck

that rust on the back of the front fender is from the cowl drain being plugged with debris , and holding moisture against the fender and the front end of the frame rail. I would be VARY supprised if you dident have a frame rail rusted . This can be major trouble , take a screw driver and poke at the frame rail just in back of the rusted area of the fender poke it and thump it with the handel end as well. If you find the frame rail has any rust or is in any way soft . I am afraid that you are looking at a parts car. Sorry ! If it wasent a 2+2 and was running good I mite concider it and drive her untill she gave up . You see the void behind the fender where the rust is , is only primered metal and is a vital structureal part of the "frame" and is only sheetmetal. I just pulled my front fenders on my 240 , the fenders showed zero rust but the inner area was rusted and in one spot almost through the skin. I dodged the bullet there . With the ammount of damage showing I think you are looking at possably 1000. to $1500. to repair if you cannot do the work your self . my 2c sorry

I'LL STICK THE OLE GIRL, talking about the z ,ON A FLAT BED TRAILER AND ENTER FOR THE WORST IN SHOW.

:classic: cover the holes with the metal tape scanlon has and paint it and stick it on e-bay and say it is a rare Z . better idea sell it to mperdue He needs a cherry car since he sold his 240

Zwolly , if you have "adjusted" the adjustment that in under the carb that rises up and down when you cycle he choke, then you have messed with the mixture adjustment and most likely have it all out of wack. If you havent touched them then leave them alone. If you have turned them in fiddleing with things then try this. reach under and turnthe adjustment knobs counter clockwise untill the stop, then back down by turning clock wise 21/4 turns then try to start the car . It should start unless there is some thing else wrong. :classic:

:classic: I f you have fuel running out the carbs . First check the float , and the float level in the float bowl. have you been doing anything with the fuel pump , or the carbs ? Are you running fuel filters ? If no filters get some . If y ou have been doing anything with the fuel lines or pump you might have dislodged stuff that has stuck in the fuel shutoffs in the carb . Just a possability. :classic: Gary

I have one from a '79zx but I dont know weather it came from a manual or a auto. I am running an automatic and every thing has been great for the past 2 yrs . Much better performance and idle. I recently noticed some hesitation but only slight . I pulled the cap and found that the plate that rotates down inside that is part of the advance was broken and must be replaced. I have sence pulled the engine and am doing a restore so havent run the dist . again after the new parts. If you look inside and see small ball berrings about the size of ones for a bb gun and they are loose then the plastic holders have broken , this is fairly common . this disables the advance. Just a heads up . Gary

I can have them done for not too much $ ea. Just the cost of the shirts and the screen especially for one with only one color. I think the screen is about $35. and after that the cost of t he shirt plus a little for the screener. i can look into it if any body is interested . I have a friend in the business and can get a deal.