beandip

I GUESS THAT YOU WILL JUST HAVE TOO BE THE BUTT OF A FEW JOKES ! ROFL

is the tranny driping oil on the ground? What is the source of the smoke? Usually when the pan gasket or the tail shaft seal is leaking it will drip on the ground . There is a vacume shift connection on the side of the trans , check there for leaks. Its on the driver side it controlls the shifting. :classic:

53 what does that make me at 65 ? AND DONT REPLY ! :stupid: ROFL

exactly what 2many said . The master vac . is a vacume booster that assists y ou to add pressure to the brakes. This is the power brake unit. the large black round metal can on the drivers side , mounted on the firewall. :classic:

How hi is up ? If the clunking has gotten to the point of a lock up . I would think that it would be obvious as to what is the trouble. Did you blow the differential ? Did one or more u-joint on the rear axels let go ?

I agree with zmefly, The round top SUs if properly jetted will deliver all the fuel that your engin can use weather it is a stock 240 or a Stroker. As far as intake it depends on what you are running now . Casting # 36 has been rumered to give 10 more HP but I have never seen any one prove it on a dino. There is a guy ,Norm in Seattle that runs in the 12s at the drags with his Z , and is running SUs:classic:

I just repaired mine but it wasn't to the point of replacement. Check with ZED FINDINGS If any one has the parts y ou need he will. I bought a set of floor pans form him and they are first rate. He advertises in SPORTS Z mag. datsunzparts.com 613 389 1397

:classic: If it were my engine I would drain the oil and change the filter. No need to pump glop through the engine, What you said about oiling the cam is a good thing also . Squirt some oil in the cylinders also. It wouldent heart to add some Marvel oil or a QT of Rislone to the new oil change as it will help desolve any gum , when you do start the engine it would be good to drain and change at about 500 miles. Cheep ins. I think it would be a vary gook Idea to spin the engine untill you see oil at the cam , before you start her up.

thesearch The advise given before me here is right on the money. Keep an eye on this web site as there are several Blokes from Oz here and I know they would be more than happy to be of help.

To get the engine to tdc . This is the easyest , pull the pluggs then fit a socket on the front pully and turn the engine over with a ratichit while your finger is over the spark plug hole and when the piston comes up to the top you will feel the compression, shine a light in the hole and y ou will see the top of the piston come up and when it stops , as you are turning the crank you are at TDC. As far as what to set the engine to pass emissions I cant help you there. I would guess some where around 8 d BTC While you have the plugs out clean them and use a little anti-seze on the threads. Keeps them from gahling on the aluminum head. Especially when you remove them and the engine is warmed up. :classic:

:classic: When you do get the new thermostat , before you install it check it in a double boiler and a candy thermometer to see when it opens . I know it's new , but just do it . I have bought new ones that were faulty . My 2cs :classic:

If you tried a 14mm and it was too large why would you try a 14.5 ?????? H E LL O, Mabey you should try a mechanic ? Where is your sign

I haven't done such a transfer. Since you have the parts it should be stright forward exchange. Not a whole lot more than doing an engine swap. You can keep the automatic radiator if you want . One thing if you do the exchange I can use the flexplate ( this is what the fly wheel is called for an automatic) . Mine has a damaged ring gear. I have my car stripped inside and out , engine, tranny and interior as will as both front finders and so on . I am keeping the auto trans. as I prefer it and installing a 280XZ engine. So I have done this kind of stuff in the past and am actively in it , but not specificly this transfer. It would just intail removing the peddles and master cylinder and slave cilinder form the donor and installing it on the new one. Wireing and everything should be the same for everything. All the best Gary

just another thing to try . Jack up the front wheel and loosen the luggnuts just loose then retighten the luggnuts with the tire off the ground. lower and tork to spec and see if that helps . It helped on my '73

Fuel injection is the most efficent with out a doubt. Having said that I purposly bought a car with out it and dont want it. Mostly because of he complications involved with it . I like the simple carberated car that I can work on with out high teck equipment. Just for giggles go to the zcar.com web site and read the posts, for the early Z up to '75 . about 80% are about injection problems . There are plenty of Z drivers going vary fast with the SU Round top carbs. Even on stroker engines. There is nothing better than a muliti-port injeted engine running perfectly. With the electrical trouble on z-cars staying simple for me is the way to go. My 2c

For one thing if you have round top SUs you have all the carberation that the your L - engine can handel . Now you can spend a bunch of cash on a set of triples and look like a racer but the truth is a stock 240 and or 280 with SUs, properly tuned , have all the fuel they need. Now if you install a after market performance cam , do some valve work and up the compression and install a electronic ignition and headers and 21/2 " exhaust , then you might find different carbs to be of some benifit. There is a Z driver in Seattle that is running in the 12s in the quarter mile , runnin SUs . my 2c I am sorry if I came off preachy , I dont mean to it's been a vary rough day.

wire in a starter button in the bottom of the cigar lighter so when you want to start the engine mearly turn the key to run and push the lignter . if you want connect the horn to the start detent so when the ignition switch is turned to start it blows the horn. this works two ways making noise as well as confuse the thief. my 2c:classic:

I went to a web site for info on a dog. I now am plagued with pop ups and they take up 1/3 of the screen and I cant get rid of the damn things . What do I do to get rid of the damn annoying things !!! Its one of the onling chat crap things from all over the world. H EE LLL PPPPP !!!!!!!!!!!!

I have some solutions to this and as soon as I get the part # I will post the information. There is a inertia shut off and a pressure switch for the oil pressure cut off. This way for those of us running injection the inertia shut off might be the way to go . Just as soon as I get it together I will post he info. thanks for all that took the time to contact me . Gary:classic:

there is another source , the trailer and motor homes use these things for several diferent applications . If any body works for a motor home store or near one check this out .

I dont know about the shift knob but the wheel is for sure not wood. I dont know if it is plastic or what it is but it is not wood. You dont need to use stripper, to prep the rim of the wheel just use one of those green pads that 3 M makes to do dishes. and scrub the surface with soap and water to remove all the dirt and gunk. Let it dry completely and sand the spokes and if bare metal prime. Then mask off the spokes and spray with a rattle can if you dont have a touch up gun. I used clear gloss laquer and gave it two coats let dry over nite and wet sanded with 400 paper then two more coats let dry then repeted the sand. I did this about 6 times untill I was satisfied with the finish. I let that dry for about three days to really dry , then masked the wheel and sprayed the spokes black with saten black. The reason I used laquer is that now I can just wype it down with the 3-M pad and I can respray with out having to strip it and build up the finish again. It's been on the car for almost 2 yrs and I havent needed to refinish it . My 2 c Gary

mdbrandy, what do you think about kroil ? I have been using PB blaster and found it was vary good . I heard of kroil and I think it is the best with out a doubt + it dosent stink. Gary

I know there are some of us with mechanical skills and knowledge that is other than form our beloved Z cars. Here is what I have a question about . Does any one know of a pressure switch that can be taped into the port of the oil sending unit maby throu using a tee fitting . The object is to have a switch that can be intergrated into the wireing thru a relay that would close when there was oil pressure say of 10 or 15 lbs . When closed current then would flow to the electric fuel pump and start fuel running. This way if there were a oil pump failure the engine would quit before damage would occure , hopefully. More inpotantly if in the case of a crash or a turn over when the engine stopped the fuel would also stop pumping. Gary

Like was mentioned before you need to look for the source. If the engine is so greasy and dirty that you cannot see where the leak is , clean it . If the source is the oil pan, it could be from over thghtening the bolts and denting in the pan where the bolts go through . This destroys the gasket and the pan must be repaired and a new gasket installed. If the oil in coming from around the crank shaft pully , its the front main seal if the clutch is getting oil on it , its the rear main seal. Baby powder thats a good idea!

bingo the last two posts have it in the nose. If you havent turned the adjuster to loosen the linings from contact do so through the hole in the face of the drum . look in the manual and see how the adjuster works and if you lift the adjuster high enough it will catch and then you can turn the star wheel. My adjuster wouldent stay up and I ended up destroying the drum by drilling wholes around the studs unitill I loosened it and broke the cast iron sleve with a sledge . It's not easy to get the drum off but you can save it . and yes striking the drum like scanlon said really will loosen it only I used a rubber mallot under normal conditions , and they come right off. Use anti sieze around the center and a little on the face of the axel when you reassemble it. You can drill out the access hole to 1/2" and not hurt anything and will help .