beandip

install a K & N filter in the stock air cleaner box and the engine will perform better . The individual K & N cone shaped filters look real good but dont perform as well with out the stacks that are on the stick cleaner. As was stated before unless you are running a big cam and a stroker , you would then be running tripples, you have the set up that will work the best right now. You might look to SM needles for the 280 engine , they deliver more fuel at higher RPMs and run great at normal street Rs. just a different taper. :classic: NOTE !! New information is that the SM needles are not advisable on a Z application . They are so rich they will cause the oil in the cylinders to be washed away and premature engine failier will result. I tried them on avice from supposidly a person of knowledge. I have since found other wise. Gary

you know I dident ask . I was going to replace both sides so I just bought the set. I may replace the driver side later , not sure. If any one is interested I found a vary clean 240 Z, rust free , as much as could be seen with out looking under the hood or inside. Body is dent free and is White . crack free dash and interior is vary nice . It's a '71 manual trans has a louver set on the hatch and a early type air dam in front its on the side of the road in Scappoose Oregon they want $6500. I can get the phone # if any one is interested. I will drive out and have a closer look if some one is a SERIOUS buyer. it's 1 hr away , so I don't want to take the time just for some one that is just curious. Gary I think it could be driven most any where in the lower 48 .

Any one looking for a vary clean , vary clean 240 manual White with black enterior. $6500. It is for sale in Scappoose Oregon . My son-in-law saw it today for sale on the side of the road on his way home from work . If any one is serious and wants more info I will get the phone # for you and have a closer look for you . he said that there was no rust visable anywhre and chrome was rust free , dash has no cracks and the enterior he said looks great . no dents any where. Let me know if serious buyer. I will drive out but its 1 hr away and my z is in parts so I have to drive my truck , which I will do but if you are just curious please I have better things to do. Gary:classic:

Your brakes are some thing you do not want to mess with . I agree with bambikiller . be sure to check your vacume hoses first before you replace the unit . if they are leaking that will be a much cheeper fix.

The batt. tray in my Z was rusted mostly surface and so was the inner fender , so I removed it with the spotweld cutter and in doing so cut through the sheetmetal so I had to have them filled the same time the welder was doing the floor. I dont want to weld batt support back in because it will just trap moisture and rust again , I am going to use Bolts and POR and secure it this way . I know POR on the bolts wont allow them to loosen and all will be sealed . POR is also going on all bare metal on the floor repair both inside and under the car. I think that ZEDD FINDINGS is the way to go for the floor pans as they are better than stock. As far as using a donnor car for the rest of your problems that may be the best way to go if it turns out to be a extensive repair. You can be geting into a costly venture here and really evaluate the rest of what is in need on your Z . You might be $ ahead finding a clean rust free car , and using your present car for a parts car. That is if that is the best way to go. If you can do the welding yourself then that is a different story , but having it done by a certified welder will be costly. I replaced one floor pan and repaired the other side and the battrery area and I am into it $250. for the welder , a vary good price , and $293.00 for the floor pans . I am most likely going to sell the driver side pan so subtract 146. So I am into the repair about $400.00 and I installed the pan and readyed everything for welding, removed the rusted floor and cleaned off all the paint and undercoating . Just taking the car in to a welder would have cost me , well I had one bid of 1300.00 for what I had done .

I only used the screws to fit the pan in place and hold it there. The welder tig welded the pan in place and as he went along removed the screws and filled the holes. I suppose you could use POR and matting to seal the pan in and just screw it in place , but I dont think it would be safe. Welding in the seat supports is no big deal , they go in easy.

I have been told that the end links are all the same length so they should not be any trouble to find. Gary

best left to a pro. if you have never have done it before. If not done correctly you will change the cc volume of combustion chambers and cause an unballance situation . As well as disrupt the flow of the intake chambers by getting them to smooth. I have a friend that builds race engines and specializes in head work and that is what he told me . Just passing on some info.

You most likely will have a leak eventually and need to remove the broken stud. In removing rusted bolts and nuts , I have found Kroil to be the vary best to penetrate the rust and allow removal. The secound best is PB Blaster, only it smells vary strong . I work in my attached garage and it stinks up the house . Kroil works better and doesn't smell. I dont know if it would have made any difference in your case but I just wanted to pass on the info.

I am not sure what wire you are refering to but be careful in the replacing of the fuseable link . This may vary well be what went bad on you , and it may have saved you from a complete electrical fire ,as well . It looks like a heavy gauge wire that connects to the solinoid and protects the whole electrical systime. As for what caused it I have no idea .

I need a flex plate with a good ring gear going on a L-28, flex-plate is what t he fly wheel is called for an automatic. thanks Gary

I just dumped my stock duel points ignition and in stalled a electronic ignition from a '79 280 zx and it works first rate. If you go this route be sure you get the shaft part the dist, bolts to other wise you wont be able to time the engine. Go to this site there is a great deal of info. here geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html

float also causes thr valve to slam on the valve seat. somtimes it will cause the valve head to part from thr stem. Also not good .

the bar that is needed is from a vary early 260 . They changed to a stright bar in'74 . the early one has bends in it to clear the diff. Mine came from the first mo. production in '74 :classic:

I bought floors from zed findings and they came wirh the center support. He has a great product. Removing the seat supports is no big deal, just mark there location so you can easley replace them . I just used a spotweld cutter on the tranc tunnel side and on the rail side and ground the ermaining off after cutting around with a sawsall. I used the sawsall to cut away the floor , and used self-tapping sheet metal screws to secure the new floor in place, about 3 to 4 " apart. I removed the batt. tray also and plan to replace it with bolts insted of welding to eliminate the rust problem using POR between the pieces. I can send you pictures if you want them . :classic:

I would like to help you but I cant figure what the hell you are talking about. Are you saying that there are a lot of fumes , smoke and such , coming from the exhaust? You say that you have a 280 engine , how is it fed by SU round top carbs or fuel injection ? Is the engine in tune ? how are the spark plugs, rotor , dist cap ? Are you running points or a later ignition?

I think you would be much happier with the 390 . If you were to change to a late 5speed then the 411 would be good. As for the 390 , check out this web site geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html I think you will find a treasure chest of information you are looking for. Gary:classic:

If it is a manual trans then the clutch and flywheel is different the 2+2 uses a larger surface clutch.

In the US the P-90 & P90a are turbo heads . Low compression with milling they are reported to be the way to go . they are the last of the L-engine refinements. Square ports . the E-88 are from early engines E-31 , E-88 & N-42 are form ' 70--'76 . N-47 & P79 are from '77--'83 and have round sleaves in diamond shaped ports . All the intake ports are round. I took .030" off a P-79 and that gave me 9.5 to 1 and large valves and the shape of combustion chamber that performs , so they say. Who ever they is. If you dont take any more than 30 from the head then you dont need to shim the towers. Hope this helps. Gary:classic:

The swap should be a stright accross swap . 411 behind an automatic, you will be spinning some serious RPMs on the hwy. I am running a auto also and am going with a 370 I think a 390 would be perfect for an auto. as far as LSD I doubt vary much. I am installing the R-200 in a 240 . and all I needed was a front cross member and mustash bar from the 280 . so you should be able to swap stright accross. Get the speedo gear from the donor car , that will need to be changed , you can just change the gear and use the present carrier . the LSD had a aluminum back cover that had to be changed . Good luck Gary:classic:

Check the PCV valve and clean it with some carberator cleaner . If you have the ammount of blow by that you say innstalling the little filter on the valve cover will just dump the fumes in to the passanger compartment . Check the pcv .Is this car pushing blue smoke out the exhaust? Does it push blue smoke out at startup only? How many miles on the engine? Take a compression test , that will tell you a lot in this area. Remember what was mentioned about the use of anti-size .

Gav240 is talking about the PCV valve . sawilliams describe what you are referring to as a oil pressure relief valve , are you referring to the pressure relief in the oil pump or at the oil filter???

Just a thought , is this a manual or a automatic trans. ? Whey you decellerate you are drawing max vacume , check the vacume line from the automatic tranny if you have one. If there is oil in the line the vacume shift diafram is shot and you are burning tranny fluid. Just another possability.

valve stem seals usually show smoke at start up. When you do a compression check squirt some oil in the cylinder first and see if it improves the reading . If it changes nothing look to valve seals if it improves, look to rings.

I agree the interior , fit and finish is superb. If it wasen't so UGLY on the out side ! I am getting sort of use to it but , I would go the Honda 2000 or an Eclips 1st.