beandip

that is so cool. I am happy for you ! Lance , enjoy the ride! I am going to start to reassembile my 240 just as soon an the honey dooooos are finished . Looks like this fall at this point . Glad for you . Enjoy . Gary

just as in another post give POR a call there kit is dinomite on fuel tanks.

I dont know what is wrong with the tank you have , but POR has a kit that works wonders , you might give them a call . This is my local dealer's number 541-345-8092 Give him a call he is vary helpful mention the club and how you heard of the product. The stuff works , what do you have to loose.

victor and 26thz My friend dident say anything about right or left hand drive but he did say it was a 4 seater. the '59 could be the production date but be a '60 model year. If it is not towable he is supposed to give me a call . I have access to a flat bed trailer. This could be a real find indeed . I hope so , this young man is a real nice guy. :classic:

has any one even seen a '59 S-211 roadster ? my friend just found one in a field and the vin # is 00016 . He says that in 59 they went to 00024 . Wondering if this is good information ?? Going to see it on tuesday. I have never heard of a S-211 , has any one out there any knowledge in this area to share ??:classic:

POR is the answer for this repair , if done correctly you will never have rust again. But you need to follow instructions. The hose escanlon was referring to that comes from tha cowl and dumps into the "chamber" at the rear of the fender , look to use a 1" 45degree pvc coupling and some vinyl hose that is about 11/4" , the clear stuff sold at home depot , the hose will slip fit over the pvc fitting and just run it out the bottom of the chamber . I will for sure POR this area well. I am into this repair right now , I have sanblasted and pressure washed the whole front end and engine bay and removed the batt support . This is a big sorce of trouble in that moisture and dirt can seep under the seam of metal that is spotwelded to the inner fender, I have por ed the whole area and the battery support and bolted it back in place so it is protected betwween the two pieces , insted of welding , I used por on the bolts and nuts sealing them as well and I know they will not come loose.

the fuel systime for sure needs work . POR 15 has a kit for the fuel tank if you fine rust , which is most likely. Be sure to put some oil in the cylinders before y ou start the engine and do as 2manyzs said on the oil on the cam. You might think of filling the oil filter before you install it to speed the pressure and flow at fresh startup. dont forget to flush the fuel pump or pumps. and change the filters.

if you go to us for help , you need to provide as much info. as possable other wise , what do you think we are clairvoient ! We want to be of help here and do what we all can to keep these classics on the road.

it's about time ! hay Bri did you ever get in touch with jordan?:cross-eye

sorry you had it stolen ! but its good to hear you found her.

JUST FASTER

a complete rebuild is not cheep, you are looking at four figures at least. If you need to have it all done by others. I agree with Royce and landmissle . unless you have deep pockets then go for the rebuld . enyoy the ride!

PASS unless it's free. there are heads out here that are good . looks like water jacket trouble for one thing. the rockers must be replaced in the same order they came off the cam or they will eat each other. if they are " on a shelf somewhare" that isnt going to happen. There was a posting recently for a free engine and trans. here on the club site.

with the ammount of rust you described it sounds like two parts cars. I am afraid that the rust repair will be vary costly and labor intensive. If you realise this and want to just drive it and it is driveable , then go for it while you are looking for a clean car. if you are looking to fix it , me advise is to pass. To make a rusty car that you described a nice driver only , NOT a show car. will cost you several grand unless you can do the welding your self and even then you are looking at a hell of a lot of work. to replace a rocker is major and if this is rusted you can bet the farm that it is just the tip of the ice berg. Sorry Gary look for a clean one that is in better shape . You will pay more for the car but much less in the long run and have somthing to show for it.

I found him , he is a member. V8-240Z@juno.com I sent him an e-mail also. :classic:

there is a guy I bought a brake drum from that makes a little devise that pulls the spindle right out and saves it , all you need to do is replace the bushings and re assemble. according to him it takes abou t 20 mins to pull a spindle. he drives a hybred and gos by the name of hybred240 I think . I 'll see if I can find him for you. Gary He said that he was going to contact Mike G and see if he could have one for the club to use and pass around it 's membership .

the alternative is to reach in from the front and loosen the hinge bolts and have some one lift the hood some from the front and see if you cas free it . When you do get it open adjust the striker and latch assembly properly.:classic: It's a good idea to attach a 2nd cable to the latch release and tuck it through the firewall so you can release the hood in the event that the hood release cable parted. just get a piece from Home Depot. :classic:

It' valve related , sounds to me like a broken rocker arm or a lash pad came off . Dont run it ! pull the valve cover and I think it will be obvious what's the trouble .

the little fuel line that runs from the float bowl to the bottom of the jet, this line MUST BE FOR FUEL , do not use vacume line they are not compatable, the parts store fuel line is too stiff and will cause the choke to stick and bind. ZTherapy has the hose and also nissan. They cost $4.00 ea at Ztherapy . If you have a good hobby shop nearby you might try them as they may have fuel line that will work. :classic: Gary

if you have a leak in the exhost port up front , it can influnce the thermastat and temp reading.

If the sqeek is related to speed , in that it increases as you gain speed , It's a u-joint . When they get to this point they must be replaced , lubeing them wont hilp. As to cost I have no idea as to labor charge but you can get cheep joints for about $15. each or $23. for the best ones. If you spring for the better ones you will never need to do them again. They are not hard to change and you have 6 all total two on the drive shaft and the rest on the rear axels ( half shafts) . dipper:classic:

2manyZs I wint out and miked the rear sway bar that is form a early 260 and it is .800 " I have no Idea what that is in mm . Gary:classic:

Royce Here I am ! I put a early 260 sway bar on my Late '73 240. The 260 I found was built 9/73 . My 240 was built 8/73 , and has the brackets on the body . The difference in the sway bars on the early '74s is they have two bends in the bar as it crosses the car and it allows the bar to clear the differential. I dont know at what point the sway bar changed to a stright one but I have seen at least 6 that have the bends . but only one that I could get. So if your 240 has the brackets and you want to find a bar look for a early 260. By the way all the end links are the same length . Dipper

I have a dash from a early '70 240 it has two hairline cracks on the top from the dash across and down to area next to the tack and another the same that is next to the clock . In the recess in front of the amp meter there is a hole with some of the foam missing , it is about the size of a neckel.

If the only oil found is on the threds of the pluggs dont worry about it , it 's not a big deal. one thing that you should do is use antiseiz on the threads especially if you are removing them when warm or hot , liks most of us do. the reason is the head is aluminum and the steel threads will some times gahl , small pieces of aluminum will stick in the threads and that will cause more to stick to it and so on and so on. to keep this form happining the antiseiz is the trick , also on any bolt or screw you remove and or replace. Another thing dont tighten the pluggs too tight you can strip out the threads because they are soft. If you do they can be repaired with a helicoil so all is not lost but it is a pain in the arse to have to pull the head . so be carefull.