beandip

Get it aligned , buy new tires and go from there . The clunk , check the ujoints on the half shafts , the diff mount .

Just to give you an idea of cost . To replace the floors if you do the removal and fitting will run you about $1000.00 by the time you buy the new floors and then have a welder tig weld in the new ones . If the rockers are bad this is really expensive. Sorry to be the bearrer of bad news. Gary

I agree with TomoHawk on this one. Only I dont see any thing wrong wit the boob thread, to me if people dont like do go there, dont. The search is important and seems to be difficult to locate information. What bothers me on posting on old , old threads is when the discussion is completed and it is months old and some one post a further question insted of starting a new thread. If when reading a old thread sparks a need for information on the topic. Start a new thread and ask. Digging up a 4 or 6 page thread on adjusting valves , that mabey 6 mo or a year old and wanting clearity , this is what I mean. My 3cts. Gary

more information is needed here . What are you running SUs , Injection , Webbers What ? What ignition , points , vacume advance or not ? Timing set at ?

One thing that can help, is to try this. jack the wheel in the air loosed the lugs, then tighten them with the wheel off the ground. then lower it and tighten them completely . This has helped me in the past. It may depend on the type of luggs you have . Mine are not the self centering type but the ones with a stem that fits inside the rim hole. Gary

. As for after market parts, ignition, header, etc, is there one company that is better than others to purchase these things.? Thanks again, Gordon First I would opt for the ignition, there are options and Motorsport is a sorce . I found my ignition at a bonyard , a '79ZX dist with coil and bradket. If you go this route be sure to get the whole dist the mount that connects to the block as well as the dist. The 240 part will not work. The ZX coil is connected to 12v so the ballest resister must be removed, and the two wires connected . When you find the dist look on the side of it there is a small box about the sixe of a book of matches . It must be marked 12 80 . '79 & '80ZX had this module. the later ones have a different module but the same dist. Do a surch on how to connect the wires . It is a simple up grade and well worth the $ and effort. GAry

I have writen to the mag in the past about forgetting the early cars . I have been a subscriber form the first issue. I had decided to let the subscription laps because of my lack of interest in the past several issues. I could care less about the 350Z .And installing a blower on a 280 . Now if there going to do something of interest , I will continue to subscribe. Like I told them '' DONT FORGET THE GIRL THAT BROUGHT YOU TO THE PARTY '' Gary

Gordon, you are singing a song that has been heard a thousand times here. First of all , wilcome to the club and congrats on the ''new'' 240 . I would recommend that you drive the car for a while before you start tearing into it. As the saying goes '' enjoy the ride '' . If your engine is in good running order for now just maintain it. Change all the fluids , and check things like the rubber brake lines that connect form the metal lines to each wheel. Look for signs of cracking , look at the front brake pads for wear. In short evaluate the different systimes. One thing that will increase your performance some would be to change the diff gearing to a lower ratio. If you have a manual tranny , find a diff from a automatic it is a lower gear ratio and it will give more power off the line. To start altering the engine gets involved and costs bucks. Only you know how deep your pockets are. Headers and larger piping will make more noise but not much power unless you add a Cam and headwork. As well as ignition. Cams are cheep , it's the rest of the valve train that must be replaced when you install a new cam that runs up the cost. I hope this info is of value to you , most likely not what you want to hear . Sorry . My 2c Gary :paranoid:

If your slide hammer has a puller , just use one and pull it that way . What Bambi said about the grease and socket works , what he dident till you is that the socket you use must just slide into he hole . so when you put the socket on the extention backwards it makes a sort of plug and when you tap on the extention the grease forces the bushing out . I would use the chisel as a last resort. gary :rambo:

The engines from '79zx thru '83 are all the same , with this exception the motors with P-90 or P-90a heads are setup for turbo and have dished pistons. The engines with P-79 heads are all on flat top piston equiped motors. As for the different years and the injection equipment I have no clue. The blocks above are all marked F-54. Specks on these engines are all the same with exceptions stated above. I hope this answers your questions, Gary

To follow a fellow member , which I wont name. The logic he uses about replaceing one new part connected to a old one . Just buy a new replacement bulb or luminare , and connect it to yor new 350 Z . And start going to some other web site. Clue '' the helmet man '' Gary :stupid: :stupid:

Sorry for the delay I had to go under the car and look , the pump is marked in and out , the inlet is at the end that the wires leave the pump. The black is ground and the black/white is the poss. No regulater is needed with this pump as it puts out right at 4 psi. At least mine does. If you mount the pump with rubber connecters it will help the werrring noise , but it is not noisy in any case. Stick a inline filter in front of the inlet . Gary

Blue , sorry to be the sourse of bad news ,but you are about 5 to 10 years too late , to be able to find any in a bone yard. Motorsport is a now source. Other wise cheep isn't happing , see Bambi's post. Gary

The information that I have says the p-90a-p-90 & p-79 all have the same shaped combustion chambers the 79 has damond shaped exhost ports with a sleve that is ment to heat the gases in the manifold for emissions . Now the same info says the three head are the latest evolutoion of this inline engine and flow and work better than the N-42 . I have a P-79 milled .030 for a 9.5 to one. I dont have a flow bench to varify the above info , however the ''they'' say the 90s both flow the most and are superior. The 79 is a vary close 2nd . I went with what I have and am not building a race car, so it was not important to me. I hope this helps , send me a PM if you want more info from me on this . Gary

I have just a couple of things to add. To check the diff mount , an easy way is to put pressure under the diff it's self. Put a floor jack under it and raise it while watching the move ment . if there is upward movement before the car starts to rise , the mount is shot. When you look at the ujoints and twist the shafts , look closely at them and see if you can see any rust particles near the little rubber sealls by each of the ends. This also goes for the drive shaft. If you find one half shaft ujoint that is bad , replace them all . Other wise you will be doing it again in a short time . Gary

If you have access to a compression tester check it just for giggles. You could have a leaking intake valve and it is burning fuel in the intake. You like the ZX ignition ? I shure saw the difference when I switched. you might kick the idle up some , that is a little slow , what is the oil pressure at Idle?

I hope you realize that the P-90a came on a F-54 block with dished pistons and was set up for a turbo. The F-54 block with flat topped pistons came with a P-79 head . They both have the same shaped combustion chamber but the 90a and 90 are lower compression. For a NA application you will need to take about .080 off the surface to raise the comp to get performance , along with some flat topped pistons. As to the issue of the lifters , I cannot help with this , I stayed away from that combo because I wanted to run SUs and dident want to be replacing pistons . From what I have read the P-79 flows only slightly less than the 90 but since I am not in compitition this was not a factor for me. I have .030 off my head for 9.8 compressino . D o you have the web page address for Brians Garage ? there is good info there on this application. All the best . Gary

For you and any others reading this thread . REMEMBER THIS THESE CARS ARE ALL THAT THEY ARE IN EXSISTANCE THERE WILL BE NO MORE MADE ! When you scrap any part of any early Z that is useable you are tossing away the future replacement parts for some one else or your self. Take it form some one that has learned it the hard way. Gary TOO LATE SMART :stupid:

THAT IS WHAT I ASKED . you hear the noise at 3k reguardless of the speed of the car , correct ???

This is exactly what I was saying Tommy , read your own post. At least 5 or more sensors plus 6 injecters and a computer. I have 2 carbs. cant get much simpler than that ! I set my carbs maby once every couple of years. Gary

I don't think you will have any trouble. I have been running it in my "73 with no ill effects. You might have to retard the timing some if it pings. No more than 10% though

Have you looked under the car at the tail pipe ? I could be a loose clamp that is vibrating from viberation at 3K. Or does the sound seem to be related to the speed of the car and become less frequent as you slow down , or increase if you speed up ? If you are parked and you slowly increase the RPM to 3k do you hear the sound then? Gary

I must say that lowering it helps some . I really like the wheels , if something could be done with the ungly front end and rear end both looking like a VW beetle it would help . It's the over all profile that kills it for me . About as arodynamic as a brick. Sorry ! my 5c Gary Scanlon has his 2c I am more expensive .

I would contact your insurance . The accident was not your fault , let them go after the other guy . they may not but I would ask your agent to see if it will effect your rates. Then make a decision weather on not you will calim the dammages . Gary

I had some patches welded on the driver side and I removed the battery tray because of surface rust in the area. When doing so I cut through the inner fender with a spot weld cutter. Making a couple of holes in the inner fender . My welder welded in a 1 1/2 sheet metal strip where the battery tray is connected to the inner fender, he also filled the holes from the weel well side. All this cost me $350.00 . I have pictures . Gary