beandip

THIS IS GRATE HOWEVER YOU ARE STILL USING 30+ YEAR OLD WIREING TO CARY THE LOAD PLUS YOU HAVE BUTCHARD THE LOOM . THE LOAD NEEDS TO BE CARRIED BY HEAVIER GAGE WIREING . THIS WILL CUT DOWN ON ON THE RESISTANCE , ESPECIALLY IF YOU GO TO THE HIGHER WATTAGE LIGHTS. Obviously the stock loom can be cut in to and made to work, sort of , but the problem with the light , marginal stock wireing carring the load remains. I have no connection with Dave , the maker of the loom mentioned here . Other than I installed one of his units . I was going to build one myself , before he offered his for sale. I am vary impressed with the quality and workmenship and ease of installation . As escanlon said the difference is remarkable , and as a bonis , the tail lights and dash lights are brighter as well. Gary

For one thing this is a car built with metric parts. If you do not have metric tools , buy some before you screw up and round off the nuts. To remove he nuts use a open end wrench or a boxend. As was posted before , block the front wheels and jack up the rear and put on jack stands so both rear wheels are off the ground. With the trans out of gear , you will be able to rotate the shaft . As it turns ,the u-joint will flex and the space will allow a proper wrench to fit the nut. If all you have is wd-40 , it is better than nothing, however P B Blaster is far far better . If you are going to be working on the z in the future buy some it will save you much pain and cash . Gary

What areas were rusted and repaired ? this makes a big difference . How was it done period . Professionally or not , how was it done. I have seen floor jobs that were just covered with matting and epoxy , over rust and all and called repaired. They shoot paint and or undercaot over the whole mess to cover it up. I had to repalce the floor on the passinger side on my 240 . I cut out the old rusted floor and installed the new floor, from Zeddfindings, and had it welded in by a certified welder . It is now stronger than origional and all was painted with POR on both sides . Would you walk away from my Z because the floor was repaired ? It all depends on how and what was redone on the car and how it was done . If someone is doing a car for resale vs one that did it for them selves. The likely hood of corners being cut by the spec. builder is grater than the other . However the do it your selfer can be a major pain in the butt if they dident know what the hell they were doing. You just need to look for your self and you must have the knowledge to what is a problem and what isn't . Gary

Unless I misread you dident say what carbs you are using . I tried a RX-7 fuel pump on a stroker with tripples, Mikunis , no regulater needed and it supplied with no problem all the way to redline. I am running the same pump on my Z running a pair of SUs again no regulater. Also the pump is quiet and pumps 4psi. Have you checked the float levels , if you are running SUs. For other carbs I can't be of any help. Shooting ducks at 5K and above could be caused by running lean , however if he float levels check out , see if any of your friends have a '79-80 ZXdist and coil . I have one and have never experienced any missfire at speed . In my openion counting on a 30+ dist having a true running shaft is expecting a lot , at the Rs you are turning . Thats my 5c . Gary It was 2c but with the cost of gas I have to charge more.

before we go off on V B , Motorsport or any other vender , just think about it . If they were not there what would you do ? Sometimes we , and myself included here , tend to think that the world revolves around our passion. These great little cars . We are just a pimple on the butt of the classic car community . Just go to a rod and custom show for an example . At least in my area . They are held inside a air conditioned or heated building . Any show featuring Z cars in this same area are held at a fair ground or park . Maby at a Nissan dealer. thats my 5c . it was 2c but with the gas prices I had to increse . Gary by the way I am with escanlon on the headlight wireing update. Mine is fantastic , I recomend this product he builds 100%

I have recently talked with James Kirk the owner of Dashboards Restorations in Au. This is the origional co that has been doing the dashes for a number of years. The operation that is here in Washington St. IS NO LONGER ANY PART OF HIS CO. I don't wish to get into what may or may not have taken place , but I have heard that there were issues of lack of quality form the US facility . I do know that Dasboards Restorations AU is still building dashes and is setting up a exchange program right at this time. As a side note , they rebuild dashes for about 20 or so different cars not just Zs. They are also building consoles . When I hear any thing further on this I will pass on the info . Gary

When these cars came from Nissan they were fairly complete for a '70s sports car. They came with a AM/FM radio , power antenna, that was a big deal then . The dealers make big bucks on the add ons . This is why they installed mag wheels , air cond , landow tops and luvers on the hatch and 1/4 windows. Of corse the body shape and thin steel make it ripe for door dings , so this was another option that was added. In many cases you just took what was available . My friend wanted metallic blue and ended up flying from Los Angeles to San Francisco to buy a new '70 in white. It could have had air horns on it and he would still have bought it . Gary

removing over .030 will require shiming the towers.

If this is a 240 it will run fine with out the oil cap. However oil will spray all over the place and in short order , it is possable to loose enough to seze the engine for lack of oil . Right Richard ? If some one told you 150 mph he was on something .

There is a company in Queensland Au , that is Dashboards Restorations . There dash restorations are first class , I think you are looking in the area of 4 to 500 dollars US . If you buy a Z with a automatic trans , drive it for a while then decide what you want form the car. You might be supprised and may not want the manual . At least enjoy the ride before you start tearing into the car . So many times new buyers start pulling the ''new'' toy apart , two years or more later its' a parts car on the market. Try to not fall into this trap . Gary

So you dont' really have power to the starter , if you have to short accross the the relay to get it to turn . All that shows is that the battery is connected and there is power in the battery . Check the connections for crud. Make sure the connections at the stearing colum are connected correctly. Especially check all ground connections , you may have plated the washers but if there is paint inbetween then there is no or little connection to the body . Use a multi meter to check every fuze even if they look good . Gary

Sounds like a dead battery . Put the charger back on it and leave it go for a couple of hours. More time if the charger is not a 10amp or greater . If the battery is the least bit weak , it wont hold a complete charge . Starting the engine puts quite a load on the battery. Doing this several times and not driving any real distance most likely just drained the battery . It take a little while for the battery to recover with with the alt recharging it . A good test to see if the battery is the problem . Turn on the head lights and blow the horn , this is with the engine NOT running. If the lights dim , this tells you it is discharged. Gary

It's threads like this that take up space for nothing . Just put them on the ignore list .

hls30 is correct, they dident come from the factory with the strip. Some were just put on with a peal and stick backing and some with screws or clips. If you cannot find a trim shop that has any try a boat repair shop , they use it for a rubrail . I leaded in the holes on my '73 before I painted it . But I like less of this stuff on a Z , just my tastes. My z even had a landow top at one time ! I had holes all across the top also. Just another dealer add on . Gary

welcome to the club , I am sorry to inform you that you are now infected with the Z VIRUS AND IT HAS NO CURE ! Welcome . If there is any thing we can be of help with just ask. PLEASE just let us know what the component is when asking. L-24 ,L-28 . SUs or what . It really helps us to help you . This is great the low ven # , The value of this car will be related strongly on how originonal it turns out . You are looking at a complete dissambly and puting the shell on a rotisery , and big bucks like 20K , I hope you are up to this sort of project . All the best Gary

BY ALL MEANS CHECK THE FAN CLUTCH . If it is not freewheeling when cold get a new one or do a rebuild. When they stop slipping and lock up , they can come apart and eat the rad and hood , among other things . They roar as you described . Gary

I cannot advise strong enough , install the wire loom up grade for your head lights . The origional wireing that you are now still using was just marginal 33years ago . The light switch will last and not burn out , they are hard to find and costly . The head lights tail lights dash lights , all of it will be about 40% brighter just with this up grade. It is a direct plug in and uses the same factory type of connecters . One of our members makes them and has offered them for sale . I installed one on my '73 and escanlon did on his '71 the both of us could not be happier . The loom is done 1st class . I have no connection with the maker other than I bought one of his and am vary impressed. I am now running H-4 and I think they are 60-90s . I may have to tone them down a little . but I shure can see now . However I can run them on hi-beam or low and and the fuze in the pannel isn't even warm to the touch . Gary

The 280 is the same as the 240 so there wont be any difference , everything will connect the same. With the exception of the fuel pump the 280 head will have the port blocked off for the mechanical pump so you will need to go with the electric. Be sure to provide a automatic shutoff for the pump in case of a crash so you don't have gas spraying all over if the ignition switch is still on . gary

Will , remember when I was having all the trouble with the ignition on my Z not fireing ? It was driving me nuts , I tested everything and all he components were good and still nothing. I ended up experimenting on a Z that ran , and as soon as I disconnected the black/white it would not run or start . I had spent two days trying to figure the damn thing out , remember . You sent me the pages of testing information for the electronic ignition. By the way thanks again. :laugh: Gary

I just went through this vary thing when reassembling my Z. There is a black/white wire also that comes from the tach that must also be connected to the coil . Other wise the coil will not fire. I know this sounds weard but believe me the tach MUST be in the loop or the engine will not run. Thanks Nissan . It has been explained to me why this is but I still don't really understand it , however it is true , trust me.

There has been this misinformation passed on for a long time about SM needles. DONT DO IT. Even with a built 280 , they are too rich and will cause engine damage in the long term. The excess fuel in the chambers will wash away and or delute the oil film and early piston wear will be the result. The excess gas will also delute the oil in the crank case and bearing dammage is the result. I have pages of documentation on this , actually Kim Blough from IDAHO Z CAR , has done extensive testing in this area . He has published the findings . As well as several others. I have a never used set I will sell cheep. Gary

It sound like the air flow is not right . I know you said that you did set it with a uni-syn . Like Nigel43 said it could be any of several things if some one has had it apart. Make sure the fuel lines under the carbs is not stiff and or brittle. They can cause the jet to stick down some and this will mess up the mixture and you wont be able to set the carbs. These small hoses must be fuel rated lines and the small lines at the parts store is too stiff . Ztherapy or Nissan have the proper fuel line for this. Check for a vacuume leak also .

BY ALL MEANS DO NOT INSTALL S M NEEDLES. PERIOD. If you want a set of SM needles I have a new set I will give you. this mith has been passed on so many times , I fell for it too . don't do it. Your engine will run so rich it will wash the oil off the cylinder walls and you will have a premature engine damage. 54 needles for a 280 with SUs. I have pages of documentation from engine builders that race Zs . Your mileage will go in the tank also. :pirate: Gary

I have one on my '73 and I did notice that it did help some at higher speeds to lessen the light feeling in the front end. I ran with out it for a long time as it was bent up and grungy , the PO had it in a box when I bought the Z . When I cleaned it up and installed it I did feel the difference , not a great difference but it helps. Recently I read that it was found that the air pressure under the front of the car is less when one of these pans is installed. So I guess I waZent dreaming. Gary