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Sorry Bryan, the cd that I have is for a '77 . Gary

Tim welcome home and thank you for your survice , welcome to the club . Good to have you abord . Gary :rambo:

ha THIS OIL DEBATE HAS GONE ON EVER SINCE I CAN REMEMBER. I first started interest in and began working on engines in 1953 and have is one way or another since then . I totally agree with this post above , with the exception of two things and they are 1. there is a difference in the oils and quality. Price is not a indicater of quality either . The chemical additives and refining practices make a difference and there are quite a few . 2. Frequency of oil changes and this depends upon the type of driving being done . Stop and go , traffic is the hardest on a engine especially if the engine is not run more than 45 min. It takes just under that time to completely come up to temp and to dry out any moisture in the crankcase. Under that kind of use , 3000 miles is a limit. If mostly hiway miles or if the engine is run long enough to completely warm up 4000 is no problem. As was stated above changeing oil sooner is cheep insurance . If you changed at 1000 like we used to do in the '50s and '60s it wouldent hurt anything . I have looked into this deeply for a long time . Personally there are two oils that I will use in my cars and one filter. Quaker State , or Castrol the composition is almost exactly the same . And Puralator plus 1 is my filter . It has the largest square inches of filtering media offered for these engines and a high quality anti-drain valve to keep the dirty stuff from draining back into the pan . Plus it maintains the oil in the filter so oil pressure and flow is quicker at start up . Thats my 5c. Gary enough for the soap box. I do think that Synthetic is the best , but I don't use it . I rather change sooner , I did try it in a engine that had 60K on it once and it started leaking at the seals shortly there after. In a new or newer engine , after breakin I think it would be good . Gary

Great advise , Lance . One thing be sure to use grease that is ment for disc brakes. It can handel more heat. Gary

Mine is the beanmobile funny name but really fast Good looking cars guys.

good job. Only one comment about the Metal Ready , it is ment to treat the metal and the rust if any is present . The surface must be clean of dirt and any grease or oil of any kind including droplets of sweat. no kidding . The metal ready will leave a slight residue behind on the rusted metal , this is after it is rinsed with water and left to dry . Do not remove this stuff , it is ok to apply the POR right over it. One more thing , The Mariene Clean is NOT just a cleaner like SIMPLE GREEN , or some simular product. Mariene Clean will etch also , and it is ment to be used with the Metal Ready. M. Clean is a great cleaner , however if you use it to prep any aluminum or mag wheels , take it from me it will take the shine off the surface and you will need to repolish. I found this out the hard way . Great thread Gary :laugh:

Lance , I was watching one of the hot rod shows the other night and they were doing the trim on a Chevy Muscle car and they were installing the vary parts you are looking for. I need some also and just havent had the time to try at the Chevy dealer , I have some SU needles on order at Nissan , when I go to pick them up I will ask about the these things there also . I will try and find the part number on my CD . I will pass on what I find . Gary

Thanks for the valuable input and staying on topic with all the BS flying arround. Looking forward to the diagram. Gary

Just the other day there was a message on the news here in town that one of the local police departments had started using LOJACK. There was a car stolen and they found it within a hour of the theft. The owner had only owned the car for a short while and dident even know it was protected by Lojack. the local Dept had just activated there systime that day . Good timing ! Gary By the way the car had a automatic trans

If you plan on doing the up grade , I recommend the wire loom up grade that a fellow member builds. It is secound to none and the difference is major . Gary

Welcome to the club have a look at the tec section there is a ton of good info there , and do a search from time to time . Many times things have been discussed in the past that you have questions on . You may find this vary helpful , other wise we are glad to be of help . Gary :laugh:

The coil form the ZX is made to have a 12v supply , nothing else uses the lower voltage . Just remove he resister and connect the two wires together. Gary

send a pm to tanny , he just finished his pins using a puller .Gary

Absolutely ! Why do you think that these cars that have been stored for years , have all the rust in the bottom of the fuel tanks ? This is also why it is good to change the oil in the crankcase before storage. Moisture in the crank case combines with the products of incomplete combustion and makes acid and rust. When you warm up the engine to normal temp, which takes a while really , then change the oil and filter . Then start her up again and let the oil pressure come up then shut her down for the winter. This will put a film on all the bearings . If you want to really do some thing , pull the plugs and put some oil in the cylinders say a teaspoon full and turn the engine over . Put the plugs back in and you are good to put her away and not to worry. Again this may not be necessary but it cost only your time and it wont hurt anything. The oil soaked rag in the tail pipe at this point is good also. I stored my Yahama for 15 yrs this way and she started right up with no problems after all that time. I did need to do a little with the carbs but carb cleaner took care of that. :laugh:

Ok Ok !! I was speaking of Oregon . I have seen YOUR car when you have been over , also dogma and Richard , but I was just wondering who were out there that havent made them selves known. I know there has to be at least a dozen , early Z drivers around here. Even Mike hasent made himself known. Is his 240 road worthy?

I have a heated , or partially heated garage . But my boat is out in the weather. any fuel tank that is not full and is subject to the fluctuations in temp and the cold dampness will condence water in the air void . This is why it is so important for the tank to be kept full . I still fill the Z tank because with us opening the door to drive our other car the temp does go up and down greatly especially when the temp is down in he 20s or so. Cheep insurance . Well not as cheep as before , but you know what I mean, Gary

If your friend wants a driver and comfort, the later cars might be a better choice . Especially if Air conditoning and such is in the mix . The early Zs ,240s, are lighter and compete well on the track and are fun to drive . They are more like a sports car compaired to the ZXs and so on. With age , as noted , comes more rust to over come . Cars that have been kept out of the salt or from the west coast are suffer less in this area . As you most likely know , if you are driving a vintage Porsche . I drive a '73 240 and do prefer the early cars and there simpleicity . Gary good luck in your surch

I live in the Portland area Ceder Mill actually, and have since '84 . I drive a vary Yellow '73 240 . I am just wondering because I havent seen a early Z car on the road in a vary long time . Gary :laugh:

First thing , a good tune up and get the engine running as it should. From there , horse power costs money, how fast do you want to SPEND ? You might look into either cleaning the injectors or replaceing them , if they are the origional parts . You can lower the gearing in the diff. This will give you more off the line . You are most likely running 3.36 to 1 gears now if you have a manual tranny . Autos run 3.54s , not a great difference but you will maintain the top end and crusing ability on the freeway . If you have a automatic look to 3.70s . personally for a street cruser , I dont want to go any lower for my application . But I am an old dude. The gain with a cold air set up is vary little in actual numbers. There is a local guy here in Portland that does some trick things to the injection systime that really wakes them up . I will see if I can come up with his name and contact information . A Z driver I know just recently had him do some work on his car and I am VARY impressed with the outcome so far. I just saw the engine this past week and havent driven or ridden in his car yet. We are getting into the rainy season here in Oregon and most of us Z drivers are putting our cars away for winter . Gary

You know , I don't remember any one asking this question in the past. If you think about it the front fenders , hood , grill and head light buckets will all interchange from a 280 to a 240 . I would think that the bumper would do also . I will measure the width of my 240 and add the dementions to this post. Maybe this will help you . I agree with you about the lipey look of the later Z , because of the regulations imposed on Nissan . I measured the inside demention of a spaire bumper from the brackets near he ends . 59'' . I have a '73 with '71 front bumpers . Gary

If you rubber mount it . It should be ok for noise , it's the pulsating type that rattle and make all the racket. I just wonder about the 7 psi. . You are aproching double the pressure that is recommended . If you could get one of the pumps Enigma was talking about for $10 or 15 bucks . I would be tempted to go that route. In fact I think I will look for one of them my self. As long as we are talking electric fuel pumts . There is safety issue here. On these early cars there is no shutoff other than the key switch to stop the pump. In the event of a crash or upset the fuel will continue to pump as long as the key is in the run position. The addition of a INERTIA SWITCH , I think is a great addition. I have one from a Ford truck that was given to me by a member and it is going on my Z . Part # E7AE-9341-AA It is a simple devise that will trip in a collision and it has a red reset button on the top. I did install a pressure switch on the oil outlet along with the sending unit so that the fuel pump would be shutoff when there was less than 5 psi oil pressure . I think the inertia switch is a better idea. The pressure switch would however save the engine in the event of a oil pump failure . However it would only work on non injected cars. Gary

Isn't there a u-pull-it or a bone yard that will let you pull the pump your self ? One thing about the rx pump is that it is quiet .

Saro , reread Steves post. List the fuses that you installed where they had been missing. Is this a car you just bought ? Why were the fuses removed in the first place. I agree with arne and T-hawk. Now that you have energized the circuits again you are causing the short and discharging the battery. this is my 5c Gary

I used the Dynomax turbo muffler, and I really like the deep sound . I do get some resonance at around 1500 to 2000 RPM but not enough so that I can enjoy a conversation or a radio. My stuff is 2 1/2 '' and when I replace it I will go with the 2 1/4 . I may add a 28'' glass pack next to the tranny . As was posted above , the mufflers need to season in . I have only 500 miles on this one and I can see the difference , it is getting better. Gary I bought the muffler from Summit . Gary