beandip

I am a retired contractor and I live in Oregon where we get a few buckets of rain every year , this year from December it rained over 30 days in a row . I agree with gator . As for the '' lifetime guarantee '' Ha Ha yes right. Next year when he is no longer in business , try and collect on it . To properly water proof the basement , tar coat the entire exterior of the concrete wall and at the bottom of the wall , along the foundation , install drain tile and cover with the silt sock. and then cover with about 3' of gravel . Then you can back fill the ditch. The drain tile must go to a drain away from the structure or to a sump with a sump pump. If by chance the slab is over a spring , you will still have problems because the water pressure will find a way into the basement. Gary

JC Whitney door seal part # ZX132568R It comes in a 25' length for $25.99 this is enough for both doors . This clips on the flange just like the OEM I bought he kit made by precision because I needed all the other seal as well as the door seals . I have installed the precision door seals and havent had any trouble. I must close the passinger door firmly for it to completely latch and line up smoothly . The driver side door closes much easier . NEITHER door must be slammed to close properly . Had I not needed all the window seals , I would have bought the JC whitney seal for the doors. They also have the felt window channel that fits in the chrome trim on the doors . Like $15.00 Gary

I sent you a PM about Sat. Gary

Jremy , What a load of crap ! Sorry I cant' join the PITY PARTY . You are sounding like a 12 yr old. As for the billing you could be replaced in 10 min. if need be . You ave comming off like a major spoiled brat. I think you should move out on your own and see what the real world is like . Sounds like you really have rough receiving your Z as a gift . Try earning your way , then maybe you would appriciate your family and your Father a little more. You don't sound neglected to me . Like the saying goes '' don't let the door hit ya where the good Loard split ya " . A birthday is just another day . You will learn this when you grow up .

Funny , I asked the same question in 2002 , I have one of the origional caps , no decal or sticker. Gary

The cam from a L-26 I am told has the tallest lift of the all the nissan cams.

280 doors have latches that are different from a 240 . So they are not interchaneable. The doors that is.

Is it possable , that this car came from Canada? It's my understanding that the evap tank was not required for the non US market early on . Gary

First of all they are worth $100. + with the manifold. To start with I would just remove one dome at a time. Remove one of the domes and when you unscrew it then carefully lift it off. You will find a piston and a large spring . The spring is important because it controlls the rise of the piston , which inturn lifts the needle . This needle controls the fuel mixture. the needle is brass and soft so be gentel . Clean the piston of the black crud . WD-40 will remove much of it also clean the inside of the dome . Wipe a thin film of oil on the piston with your finger and reassemble all . Be vary careful with parts cleaner as it can desolve some of the important gaskets and parts. From here I would just install the carbs and see how they run . Now check the little fuel line that runs from the fuel bowl to the bottom of the carb to see if it is stiff and or brittle. if it is buy a new set. DO NOT USE VACUUM LINE for this . Parts store fuel line is not meant for this and is too stiff . Nissan or ZTherapy has the hose. The stiff hose will cause the nozzle to stick down and a VARY rich mixture be the result . Go to the TEC SECTION AND DO A SEARCH FOR ADJUSTING S U CARBS . There is a step by step on how to do it. Gary Save the $6 clams. these carbs are fitted at the factory so dont mix the parts , work on one at a time . my 2 ¢ Gary

Set the timming at 10 BTDC , turn the idle adjustment back so the engine wont race. Now , the correct idle speed should be set around 700 RPM . A vacuum leak will cause a fast idle , so if it is difficult to controll the Idle speed look for a leak. Is this a injected or carbed engine ? my 2 ¢ Gary

Phil, Just recently I installed a '82ZX NA engine in my '73 . I found the engine and paid $500. for it complete with all manifolds even a alternater. I did pull the pan to check the lower end and all was real clean as I had expected , being the oil when I checked it was rather clean. I just cleaned it up, painted it and I did replace the rear main seal since it was right there. The difference from the L-24 is dramatic. I am running my old SUs , in fact today because the weather was good and the location was right I kicked her up to 90 mph and she pulled hard and was still pulling when I shut her down. I don't know if you were into the hot rod era , but I was . We used to bore and stroke the engines back in the day to increase the performance . It was not that easy then . By going with a ZX engine, you have a bored and stroked L-24 and the difference is amazing. I have only put 1800 miles on the car since I have her back on the road and am still playing with the performance end . I would certainly recommend the later engine that was built for our unleaded fuel and is the latest evolution for this fine engine. My 2 ¢ Gary

Check with Summit Raceing they have the Gr2 for $40.00 each . This is what I am going with , I have the euro stage 1 springs . I just need the $ for the struts. I havent heard anything bad about KYBs for street use . track use is a different matter . I think it depends on the use planned for the Z . summitraceing.com thats my 5 ¢ Gary

HAY M O O N I don't need your help for anything ! You just need to give it a rest . It is obvious you had a hardon for Alan T from the start. I think If he just said hellow , you would have had something to jump on him for. same for your # 1 fan01 . Why don't we all just treat this web site like we are all friends and check the big EGOs at the door . Go back to post #1 and reread all that has been said. We just need to chill , this is stupid.

When I had my car apart , I removed 1 1/4 coils from each of the front coils on my '73 240 . This alone made a big difference in the light feeling at speed. before I would get a shimmi from about 75 on up , and now she is smooth . And I no longer have that feeling of lightness . Nothing else was changed on the front suspention . I havent had the car above 95 yet so I dont know about higher speeds . The Z now sets level and the ride is unchanged . I bought a set of the Euro stage 1 mentioned above and I will post results when I have them installed . I am replacing the struts at the same time , it's a funds available thing right now . If the spacing between the top of the tires to the fender lip is increased from were it is now , with the new springs , I will cut the coils again. I figured that cutting the coil as I did loward the front a little over one inch . With no ill effects . My 2¢ Gary

Both privious posts nailed it . Congrats to being back on the road !! Its a blast isn't after a while not driving a Z . My Z was down for 2 yrs 8 months ! I can't drive it enough now . Took me 3 1/2 hrs to go to the post office , that is only one mile away . I couldent stand it and had to go for a ride in the mountains that surround us here in the valley . Don't you listen for every little noise that might be a rattle or something loose that you might have forgotten ? I have a 1000 miles on my car since reassembling her and I still '' feel her pulse '' every time I drive her. Great to hear another Zs back on the road . Gary

HAVE YOU EVER THOUGHT OF STARTING A NEW THREAD??? WHATSA MATTA FOR YOU ??

The line that does go back to the fuel tank . It is your air supply to the tank , so you don't create a vacuum in the tank as the fuel is used . If you don't filter the air going in , the crud will end up in the tank or clogging the line. Same with the over flow vents on the carbs , if you sink a float then the fuel will dump on the hot header . As to the valve cover filter most likely you will be smelling the blow by in the cabin of the car . The little filter will catch the oil particules but the smell will vent in the engine bay.

There is nothing wrong with adding '' bits and pieces '' as long as they are factual . There is no room for agendas here , and it seemed clear from the beginnig that you have an axe to grind. Toward Alan T . Alan thanks for the information on the oil cooler . I had thought it might have been from a turbo ZX . my 2 ¢ Gary

It could be a turbo unit that someone just stuck on your block .

The 240 rail has at the end of the return line just a small hole that allows gas to squirt out but restricts flow to maintain pressure to the carbs. Have a look at the end of your metal fuel line and make sure it is not plugged . Gazza , Also if you have any RX-7s in a bone yard down there in the '80 here they were carbed and the fuel pumps work vary well in a Z . I have been using on for years . $15.00 at the Bone yard . They are quiet also and will not over power your carbs.

be aware , removing any more than .030 and you will need to shim the towers.

the same connector covers were brittle aslo when I pulled the tank . I ended up springing the brass connecters some what out of shape . I was able to do a repair with pliers to the point that it held and made good contact. Just to be sure I used sylicone seal to make them water tight also to insure that they remained in place. Actually the rubber boots were so brittle that they cracked when I had to squeese them to remove wires . my 2¢

gordo , go to the forum section and then to the tech section . do a search for adjust SUs there is a step by step on how to adjust the carbs. This area is a treasure trove of informaiton from members on all sorts of things , take the time to check it out . gary

Are you keeping the car inside out of the weather ? If so just shoot it with primer , if you must keep the car exposed then cover the primer with any paint that you have . The painter will sand it off any way and this will seal the primer from moisture. On my car I wiped it down with wax and grease remover first then primer. I painted the car in the garage. After the final sanding of the last primer coat , I shot the car with epoxy primer , white , to seal the surface and to make the car all the same color . My finish color is yellow . If it were black or a dark color , then the primer would have been dark. I think you need to talk to your painter , to see what he expects to see when you bring the car to him. And what he is planning to do to the car . EScanlon shot the color and clear on my car , credit to him for sure . Gary

LOOK AT THE DATE OF THE THREAD YOU ARE POSTING TO!!!! THIS IS A YEAR OLD