beandip

I don't know if you cobel the things together , but I do know the module is the trigger for the ZX ignition and you do NOT need the resister. The proper coil will have that taken care of . When you mix and match you are on your own . There are members that may know .

I bought my '79 ZX ignition at a bone yard . Complete with coil and its bracket, needed because the coil is larger, cap and rotor and plug wires. $75.00 I ran the ignition for about 3 years on my L-24 . You must also get the extension the dist bolts to , this part is what is connected to the block . The 240 part will not work with the ZX dist. After about 20 years of use the vacuum advance plate will likely fail due to heat from the engine. This plate is actually two separated by ball bearings ,that allow the plate to turn advancing the timing with the vacuum . There are plastic keepers that fail and the balls fall out . This makes the vacuum advance inoperative. You just replace the plate and you are good for another 20+ years . I have been running this ignition for almost 6 yrs and this is the only problem I have had. I am running a ZX engine now with the same good results . I wouldn't run a street engine without a vacuum advance period . For a track engine it makes no difference because you are always at upper RPM.

Do what Arne said , but get all of the harness and convert everything . Arne and escanlon do wiring. Been there also . Gary

Man I don't know what you are referring to . There should be one line , about a 5/8'' hose that should go to the air cleaner . This is the fresh air and or blow by outlet . There are vent hoses from each carb that connects to the air cleaner as well. If you have a automatic trans , there is a vacuum line that connects to he trans , it is a 1/4'' size and a larger one that connects to the vacuum brake booster. That is it. Gary

First thing , especially with 3 screw SUs , DO NOT inter change any parts from one carb to the other. Especially the vacuum piston and domes . Be careful withe the plastic locating ''pins '' that are on the top of the carb base that locate the dome to the base. Other than that they are almost the same as a 4 screw. You will need a different linkage that fits between the two carbs. Your old one will not work. Also you will need the thicker insulators that fit between the carb and the intake. If you are going to be running coolant in to the carb bases then you will need the proper insulators that will allow this , or drill out a 4 screw set . Start with screwing the fuel mixture adjustment backed out 2 1/4 turns , this should get you started and running . Then you will be able to adjust from there when the engine is warmed up . Gary

Looks nice and White . Just kidding , good looking car . I have always liked the RXs looks. Just not a fan of the Wankel engine. You will find the 240 Z to be a completely different breed of Cat . Good look in your Quest. and welcome to the classic Z web site . You will find a wealth of knowledge on Z cars here . Gary

Question , why did you go to the fuel pump when it was OK with the old Carbs ?? Popdaddy is right , look at the screens in the banjo fittings , all so if the carbs you installed have been setting for a long time the float valves maybe be stuck closed . Gary

Just the standard with two spade connections is all you need

The shortcomings with Halon is the same with the CO2 . They both will work well in a confined space .They contain the fire by eliminating the oxygen and Halon needs at least 16 % concentration, also it is somewhat toxic . If there is any air exchange , like an open door or window or an open hood or air streaming in from under the engine for an example , you would need a large amount of halon to control a fire, in the cabin or under the hood. With flammable liquid , re-flash is a large part of the problem . So until you either remove the source of ignition , or cool the burning substance to the point it will not likely reignite you still have the problem. When I was a active Fire Inspector , I was a specialist in special extinguishing systems. Dealing with large computer centers that depend on Halon systems. The regular ABC dry chemical extinguishers are still the best and cheapest for our application . Inside your kitchen , by all means the Halon . Gary

generally a electrical fire will go out when the juice is turned off. What is burning is the insulation and the plastic. Water of course will further short out things if the power is still on. Your engine fire you mentioned was most likely a fuel fire , at least to start with . A alternate extinguisher is a good old qt bottle of soda water. Just twist off the top and use your finger over the end like it was a garden hose and shake it. It wont last vary long but it will work effectively. Plus when the excitement is over you can add a little scotch and settle your nerves , NOT . Especially if you are driving . When you look at a tag on the fire extinguisher they will show a rating. A is for wood/ paper and the like. B flammable liquid . C electrical . The 10 that was mentioned before by Tommy, deals with how much flammable liquid it should handle in square foot increments , in this case 10 SQ FT. Remember this is in perfect conditions , no wind and used by a person with experience using one of these things . Gary

Absolutly , this would do it . Also the use of the 36 intake against the others. And the ''mith'' ? of the 10 HP gain . I have seen this posted so many times over the years and never seen any proof . Seat of the pants dyno dosent count. KMack I know who you are talking about .

The dry chemical used in extinguishers you mentioned is almost all BAKING SODA. There are other chemicals in there to keep the media from caking up in the container. Corrosive , well yes , mildly , but not if you clean up afterwards. What do you think the fire is going to do ? Not make a mess ? There are several other type of extinguishers that can be used , but mostly they are specialised for a particular use , like just for electrical fires or for wood/paper or like the foam or carpets in your car. Except for the electrical use, plain old WATER is the best for the paper and the like. The A B C dry chemical will handle all of it. This is why we put up with the mess of the powder blowing all over. And they are CHEAP .That is my input . Gary

Could be , check and or change the fuel filter and see. Also check the screens in the banjo fitting on the carb . Most people toss them but if there still in there they could be plugged. Are you still running the flat tops ? If you are then all bets are off. How about ignition . Are you still using the 240 ignition ? If you are using ATF in the carbs change to 20w or 30w if you don't have the 20 . Next I would check the float levels in the carbs . Is this problem something that just came on ? or is it been just getting worse ? Gary

A place to try it . DEATH VALLeY CALIFORIA . The name is right

Good question Ed , I bet Allen T would know . I do wonder what was on the European issue early Zs had. I have seen down draft Weber's that were stock from some where . At least I was told that was so. Gary

I agree with Arne also, change the fuel filters you are going to any way , so do it now. There are screens in the ''banjo'' fittings on the carburetors . Unless a previous owner has removed them . The fitting is the connection where the fuel line attaches to the float bowl. I just mention this because you may not be aware of them. It is not uncommon to need the choke to start the engine when it has not been run for a few hours. My Z would have a difficult time in the morning in the summer with no choke being used . The lack of engine speed is a indicator that the engine may be starving for fuel . Being the engine runs OK then will not , makes me think it is fuel and not electrical. However ?? Sounds like a good tune up is in order . Gary

OK , try and disconnect the linkage that connects to the carbs from the ballance tube and check for binding If it is gone you will know where to look . Work back to the fire wall doing the same thing . you will find the problem .

Matt the rod you are referring to is adjustable , normally the adjustment end is in the engine bay . There is a 3mm lock nut and then you can adjust it. Maybe this will help you . Also the part that fits on the spindle can be installed wrong also . It will fit two different ways . Have a look at this also. Just a thought. Gary:rambo:

I don't scream but I mumble a lot. The nozzles are alike for the round tops . Nissan had nozzles for the '70 240 . but only 6 in the USA . This was a few months ago. I am running 27 needles . I have a ZX flat top engine with 9.5 to 1 compression. A little more that middle of the road cam , which requires the higher compression . A ZX ignition , headers and 2 1/2 exhaust. Set at 10 degrees BTDC . The engine runs strong and just slightly on the rich side of right on. The color tune shows right on , for what that is worth. 27s are the needle offered for the '70 240 for performance . I was running 54s and they appeared to be a little on the lean side , looking at the plugs , so this is why I changed to the 27s . I have a brand new set of SMs if some one would like to buy them from me for $20.00 .

A couple of things, You installed new SUs ? Have the carbs been balance and adjusted properly ? You used tape on the fuel lines ? If there is ANY question on a fuel line REPLACE IT ! When you had the tank off did you find any crud in the tank ? Was it rusty inside ? The fuel filters , if they were full of crud as you said , replace them . You may need to do that several times if there is much crap in the tank . There may be screens in the SUs them selves where the fuel line connects to the carb. If they are clogged this could be a problem. Has this engine been setting long with out running ? Fuel gage sending unit , the connections are different sizes , just look closely , there is not a great difference .

OK , stand a little to the right , I can't see vary well .

Well I am in to it now so lets see where it tskes me. I bought the replacement floors and front rails from Charlie Osborne. They will be here this week. I know someone with a metal shop that will cut eveything out and weild/fab everything back. I will be putting it back together. So I may have many more questions. MM:) If you have the connections and the cash to donate , go for it. It will be costly for all that it needs. Listen to a7dz , he knows what he is talking about. I would forget on the restoration , it would be a waist of your time and money. Do the rust repair and all the rest but realize when you are finished the Z will be a driver . The quality of the driver is up to you . Just build it for your self. The labor costs on metal fab is costly . Real costly . All the best to you on the project , and we are here to help . Gary

You have a tire mounted . Just look at the tire . It will tell you . there are three numbers the last is the rim size. 195 70 ( 14) 14'' wheel

I have done this and my engine runs great. I have ended up with N-27 , That needle is a OEM for a '70 240 Z that was more of a performance needle. I also ran a 54 and the engine also ran great just a little leaner. I have headers and a 2 1/2'' exhaust so that could cause a leaner condition . SM even with my performance cam were WAY too rich . I have read that the ZX with SUs have more low end than the injection. I don't know if this is true , but this engine pulls hard from 2 K to 5500 and beyond. Gary