beandip

What Ed said , I agree with. It's a balancing act changing the exhaust system , or porting the head , or installing a cam . What cam ? Are you going with injection or keeping carbs , triples maybe ? Before you start changing things , remember these cars are performance cars to start with. Not saying you cant improve them. You will not get but vary little more performance with headers and the large plumbing , if you don't install a performance cam . To make the engine breathe and take advantage of the cam , you need larger valves and with the cam , if it is at all radical you need more compression . So the head needs worked to raise the compression. Now because the engine needs to spool up to the higher revs , due to the cam and because it can breathe better at the upper RPMs . A electronic ignition is needed . So changing to the headers and large piping , alone , mostly will just make the sound louder. Seat of the pants DYNO will feel like the engine is stronger and it will sound cool . The headers will put much more heat in the engine bay . Just a few thoughts. Gary:rambo:

BD280, You got away CHEEP . My radiator shop wanted $125.00 just to remove and re-solder the top tank and rod the old core. Rockmtnhigh , POR does sell a kit to do the tank . It is a 3 step process of cleaning and preping the metal and then sealing it. escanlon has done a couple of them with the POR . Send him a PM for the details . I don't know that Nissan has tanks for your car . If they do , they will be costly. If you follow the directions given by POR rust should no longer be a problem . All the best . Gary

I remember Weiand the made intake manifolds and Heads for the old Flat head Ford engines . I haven't seen or heard of them since the late '50s . I stand corrected . After so long I didn't even remember the name. Gary

The vinyl roof covering has been covered by others but no one has mentioned the ''sun roof '' . The sun roof was not a factory option . Dealers some times installed options like these and mag wheels . In the '70s cars generally came devoid of any ''extras'' , that is American cars . Dealers make money on the extras they can add on . The Z came with a radio , power antenna , '73 and later intermittent wipers and tinted glass. So to add to the cost of the car , Dealers added mag wheel , Air conditioning , vinyl roofs , over rider bumpers , sun roofs , Spoilers and air dams. Also pinstriping and fender strips to protect from door dings . The vinyl roof and sun roof are a vary good possibility having rust issues , especially the roof. Check the floors closely in the foot wells . If the sun roof has leaked , most likely the floors are rusted out. These after market sun roofs are known to be leakers . My '73 HAD a vinyl roof in the past and my PO used metal tape and primer to fill the holes in the roof where the metal strip was attached across the top . I mention the other stuff just to give you background. Gary

First of all if the piston rises and gets stuck , the butterflies are connected to the linkage and if you let off on the throttle the air is cut off to the engine. The butterflies controll the engine speed the vacuum piston only controlls the fuel mixture . So sticking vacuum piston couldent be the coulpret here. First check on binding linkage or weak return spring. WHAT ARE WELAND COVERS ? sorry but I have never heard of them on anything much less SUs . I don't claim to know all but this is a new one . Gary

I am so sorry to hear of the death of Steve Irwin. Such a total shock for us all. My heart goes out to his family and pray for his Wife and two kids. Definitely a unique person and personality . He was passionate about conservation and treatment of all animals all over the world . As was mentioned by others he brought the knowledge to our young people in a way that impressed them greatly. He will be missed by us all . Gary

I have seen the locking door latches that were added . The lock can be purchased at a travel trailer store.

WHO SAID ANY THING ABOUT A BUMPER ??? Hello ! COME ON TOMOHAWK . Ride height is the topic and the measurement is from the rocker jack points to the ground. If you measure this area then you will be on the same page . :ogre:

Will , this sounds like a couple of Z drivers that ask for help and then argue when the are told something they didn't want to hear . Gary ROFL

What kind of carbs do you have ? You couldent just turn the ignition off ? Or is this another issue ?

I went with the K & N filter element and kept the stock air box. I did find that the element is just slightly thicker than the paper type and the cover lacks about 3/16 " from completely sealing all around. The element seals inside the air box so no crud gets into he carbs . I bought mine from Summit but you may find another vendor for less money . I have been running with K&N filters for many years in my trucks and cars . Gary

I would like to see the hood in person . Gary

Sorry that you had a problem . I fitted mine with out a problem although I did use different clamps. The muffler I used is a Dynomax and I am really happy with it so far . I have 4K on the system . I bought the muffler and stainless clamps from Summit . At about $10.00 each they are a little spendy but they work great and don't deform the piping so the system can be removed if necessary to work on the tranny or what ever. There a band type clamp like used on large trucks . Gary:ermm:

That was just a thought in case all else failed you as well as a possibility. If you know someone that has the same set up and it works well then don't vary from it.

Send a PM to Arne , maybe he can advise you . Gary

The exhaust pipe goes under the suspension just next to the diff pumpkin , then it makes a 90 degree turn to the side to miss the fuel tank , then another 90 degree turn to the muffler. The straight piping extends from the header back along the tranny and drive shaft . There should be a hanger just forward of he diff and another just before the muffler and right to the rear of the muffler . If you have a motorsport catalog look at the system sold there . Gary:rambo:

Darrel may have nailed the problem with the bleed screws statement. Also did you change the master to a compatible size unit . that is if you went to disks in the rear instead of drums . Check this out , you may need to be using a master with larger volume piston for the calipers in the rear . Just a thought . Gary

Here is a thought about your timing. The base that the dist goes into and bolt to . If the one you are using is from the 240 dist. it will not work and the timing will be way off. The mounting bolt is positioned in a different place on the 240 mount than the ZX mount . If you bought a rebuilt dist. they don't come with this part. This just a thought. My ZX ignition and 240 tach work fine in my '73 . Unlike what the geocities information said. By the way that site is a wealth of information , however over the years I have found a few things that were inaccurate , but minor things . Gary

I must agree with Arne in all he said. Even the part about when the site is down from time to time. This is when I hit the phone or send emails to my friends that Arne spoke about . It is vary true for me as was said about my car in the garage . Looking as it does and running like it does. I feel blessed knowing the Friends I have met here on the web site. What I don't like is the some times short fuses that some members have when they take things personal and start flaming others. If I can say one thing about this that may help is, remember we are all here because we really love the Z and are all doing the best we can . We need to keep Politics and religion out of the mix , it only tends to polorize and split us apart. My 2 cts. Gary

The reason I responded as I did , is because we have been SCAMED on this site by devious people . I subscribe to the notion that IF IT SEEMS TOO GOOD TO BE TRUE , MOST LIKELY IT IS . We have had 12 , 13 year old passing out advise on how to do things . And a couple of times they got away with it , until someone of us read the exchange and put a stop to the bogus advise. I am a little jaded I guess and no harm WAS or IS intended IF YOU ARE LEGIT. That's all . I also could vary well be a buyer . As a word of advise . At present I would look to find good 240Z as they are increasing in value faster just because of availability . Good clean 280Z should not be ignored however . The market is just not as strong . 2 + 2 are not as popular either . I know of a member right now that is contemplating on having a '71 240 that we all would regard as a terminal rust bucket , with good interior , shipped across the US . The value of the whole car isn't worth the cost of shipping. At least to me it isn't. Gary:rambo:

Dashboard Restorations in Queensland www.dashboardrestorations.com.au I have the address and phone numbers if someone needsthem. Gary

Will thanks for the update. I was wondering about your endeavors with all this stuff and asking my self where do you get the time to cover it all , and do your Z. Now we know, you cant. Sounds like you have the right focus . Keep your eyes on the priZe . All the Best . Gary:)

You Must Be Kidding !

I agree with myfairladyz . If you have a shop where you can take it to that can mandrel bend a 2 1/4 set up for you this would be the better of options. I really like the sound of my Dynomax muffler and I recommend one of those. Motorsport sells a whole mandrel bent setup that you can do your self , only it is a 2 1/2'' . I have this on a like application you have . Only I am running headers . I was fortunate to receive the headers and exhaust minus the muffler for free so I went with this . For a street driven Z, the smaller of these two options is a better choice. Both for sound and performance. I have some interesting documentation along these lines if you would like to read it. Send me a PM . Attaching the exhaust pipe to the down pipe is not a big deal for a muffler shop, even if they need to fabricate a fitting . If there is a flange on your down tube they will just cut it off and weld the two together . Gary

Rainman , I wouldn't add any coolant just yet . You might just find that you will have a leak somewhere or need to change a part and need to drain the rad. I just use straight water until I am convinced all is well and on the road . Then I go 50/50 with antifreeze bu not until then . If you remove the thermostat take note that there is a little hole in the body of it and if it has never been pulled since new , the hole will be on the up side . Supposedly this is for air to escape past the unit when you fill the cooling system. I would test the thermostat in hot water and see if it functions , use a candy thermometer to see at what temp it opens. If all is good no need to change it. I use a socket on the crank nut with a brake-over bar or ratchet. I have a manifold that has the tubes blocked off if you need it . It's yours . Maybe we could have Bryan bring it down your way . Or as far as Arne's . Gary