beandip

I used 5/8'' fuel line from the connector pipe to the PVC valve at the intake. The Connector pipe for a 240 has the smaller fitting on it for the fresh air system to the fuel tank , but the later version does not. . Gary

You can make this a complicated endeavor if you wish , but your uncle is correct. Tighten the axle nut down firmly , about a turn or so past finger tight. spin the wheel a few revolutions each directions. Back off the Axel nut until loose , do not turn the wheel when doing this part. Then tighten the nut finger tight plus 1/4 turn . spin the wheel . now grasp the tire , from the front and back and see if you can feel any play or looseness. If ANY is felt tighten the nut slightly until none is felt and the tire turns freely. You want the bearing to be only slightly under tension or load ,but not loose . If too tight the bearing will fail from too much friction. If too loose it will also fail because of miss alignment to its race in the hub . If you have just replaced the bearings or cleaned the old ones , be sure to use grease for a wheel with disk brakes and also be sure that the grease is pushed into and through the bearing holders so all the voids are full . All the best . Gary USE A NEW COTTER PIN , YOU DONOT WANT THE AXEL NUT COMMING OFF !

Bruce this little hose marked Goodyear is way too small to be adequate to act as a vent for the engine block. The main function of the metal larger port on the side of the block , is to allow the engine to breathe and to help keeping the engine from forming sludge. It is supposed to be connected to a larger hose like a 5/8'' hose and connected to a PCV valve and to the intake manifold . The little hose you are talking about and showing is part of the fuel tank fresh air systime.

I have also been using the CD since it was first offered , back in the day. as they say . I think if any one owning a early Z should have one. When and if you must find parts for you Z , if you have the numbers ,the parts guys will be much more likely to look for what you need. Plus you will find the right things you are looking for . BUY THE CLUB CD YOU WONT BE SORRY . Gary

Will , thanks . Sounds good to me . Since I have a new wind shield and all .

Are these the simi clear blades ?

If your oil consumption is not high , was previously stated . I wouldn't bother with the seals. If this is a high mileage engine in need of a overhaul or valve job , do the seals when the other work is done. Both the air and cotton rope will work. What you said about the lack of oil on the valve stems is true. This is the reason it is recommended to put oil in the cylinders and pour oil over the valve train , on a engine that has set for a long period of time. There are always 2 valves open when the engine is not running . What is the compression like ? If this engine was one that had set for a year or so , could you turn it over with a socket with out difficulty and the plugs out ? If you had difficulty turning it over because there may have been some rust in a couple of cylinders , then watch the oil consumption closely . But do a leak down test or compression test in any event. If your valve seals are leaking . If you remove the intake manifold you will see build up on the exhaust valve stems . My old L-24 had almost golf ball sized deposits and the seals were not that bad . But she was tired. Gary

one thing I might add . my Daughter just insured her 16 year old son . there total premium went up $300.00 PER MONTH . JUST TO HAVE HIM BE ABLE TO DRIVE TO AND FROM SCHOOL. They live in a rural area so being able to drive for him is important . This is with no tickets , right out of he box. Count your self lucky to have a car , any car given to you . Much less a Z . I worked two years to save a down payment for my first car , which I bought and paid for my self. I didn't have the luxury of playing sports or after school stuff. I had a job since I was 15 . take care of your Z , I had to wait 30 yrs to have mine. Gary

you are hi-jacking the thread . post your own thread. double clutching is for transmissions that have no cyncros. Like large trucks , fire trucks and such not for Zs.

The 0 psi at idle was with the mechanical gage ? There is a pressure relief in the oiling system and it could be stuck in the relieving position . I have never had any issue with one but I know this can happen. The oil pump is a positive displacement pump , so it must bypass when the oil is cold to keep the pressure below 70 PSI. If it sticks open , what you are experiencing could likely be the result. I believe it is right at the oil filter in the side of the block. As I said I have never had any problem with this so therefor no personal experience. 0 pressure on a running engine is NOT acceptable . What is the point in ignoring this and doing the suspension and loosing the engine ? Gary

Ravencree, to answer your question about receving your money out of your car if or when you sel it . Much depends on who does the work and how well it is done. If you must pay labor costs , then no not likely. If you highly modify the Z , V-8 and such . Not likely again . I see V-8 Zs for sale all the time and rarely do they bring much when sold , at least compaired to what was sunk into them . That is my 2cents . Gary

Ed , the only problem with storing it in a enclosed container like your trailer is moisture. Especially if it is at all damp when you close it up. Each time the sun shines on the trailer and it radiates heat through the skin ,the inside will condense the moisture on the contents ,when it cools . Your Z in this case. It's just the same if you start the engine and don't completely warm it up . Moisture is not completely gone and it will condense on the inside of the block. Lack of ventilation is the enemy here. I live in a high humidity area here in Oregon and if our cars are garage kept, especially one that is attached to the house we have no real problem. In a detached building either , really because they breathe . Even when the temp drops to 33 degrees , which is the dampest temp as far as when it is cold , as I am sure you know . The changes in temp , up and down and up and down ,this is the culprit. In your unheated trailer or garage , do leave the windows open a crack of about a inch , to allow the car to breathe when the temp vacillates up and down. Lightly spraying Lysol over the interior of the car will also help with preventing mildew if this is a possibility. I have used this stuff for years on boat interiors with good results . It smells good too. Doing what Marty R posted are all great suggestions. When I stored my boat , inboard V-8 , I always ran the engine to COMPLETELY warm it up . Then change the oil and filter . I restarted the engine and again brought it to operating temp and then ran some Marvel Mystery oil down the intake. I did this to the point that the engine started to stumble and load up from the oil richness. This coats the cylinders and head , then shut it off . Remember , when these Z motors are setting there is always two valves open to the outside. Coating the valve stems and all working parts , in my estimation , is a good thing. In the spring the engine will smoke until all the residue oil is consumed but no harm is done . I have done this for many years and have never had a problem . With SUs this can be done by using the over flow hoses on the carbs to pour oil in to the float chambers . I have never used Sea Foam or Fog Oil for this but have heard that they are good also . I imagine A T F would do fine also. Gary:) One additional thing I have neither injection or a cat/converter to consider here.

I HAVE NO IDEA . I HAVE NEVER HEARD THERE WAS ANY DIFFERENCE. One thing I have heard though , is many times when you buy a ''turbo'' pump at a parts house . A rebuilt unit, they are not turbo pumps , but standard parts. FOR WHAT IT IS WOURTH.

Over the years , one thing I have learned is . You CANNOT rely on the stock oil pressure gage ! It mearly is a gage . Like licking your finger and holding it up to see if the wind is blowing. That is all . It indicates some pressure , but what is some ? If you want to know what is happening install a mechanical gage . This will give you the real pressure . Then you can compare the reading on the stock unit and see what it represents. A little up from zero at idle ? What does this account for ? The stock gage is just a gust-a-mation of what is happening . The same for the Temp gage , it is just a indicator . Unless you test it otherwise how do you know how hot the engine really is with the needle in the middle ? Gary

WHY ARE YOU REPLACING THE PUMP ? DID IT IT FAIL ? RARELY DO ONE OF THESE PUMPS FAIL. If you are indicating low pressure , first attach a mechanical gage so you can get a true reading. $15.00 at the parts store . Much easier and a whole lot cheaper than replacing a good pump . If you truly have low pressure , how many miles in the engine ? It may be time for a overhaul . Not flaming here , just trying to keep you from chasing your tail here. Gary

I measured the pressure over a 3 week period while driving the car . I used a mechanical gage connected directly to the block with the gage on the console. I didnt calibrate the cage separately however . I was showing low pressure with this engine so I wanted to see what was going on. I have a new sens er now and it seems to be showing comparable readings. As much as the stock set up will allow. Gary

Just use a straight edge across the face of the piston , have the shoulder of the needle touch the tool and tighten the screw. That's it . Gary:)

I have been running this same set up on my engine and now it has just over 40K on it with no problem so far. I am running a TURBO PUMP though. I have about 20 psi oil pressure on a warmed up engine at idle and right about 50 or so at 2500 RPM . This is with 10w30 . This was measured with a manual oil pressure gage . Gary

what is the build date

I am not familiar with the 4070 pump . as to the relay I would find out how many amps it draws . This is a big factor because of the load put on any switch. One thing with the RX pump is that it is a 5 psi pump but will feed triples with no problem . We tried one on a Stroker with triple mikunis' and it handled them just fine. An inertia switch is something all of these car could use to be safe . Of course those with electric pumps. Had to say that , other wise some one would jump on it . Gary

The pressure switch is just a simple one . The automotive industry has used them for years for stoplight switches also. When the fluid becomes pressurized the contact close. Just take your oil sender to the parts store , buy a Tee that will allow the sender to screw into it. Ask for a pressure switch that will also fit the tee, and one that activates at 5 to 7 PSI and has two mail spade contacts. You run the switch in the circuit so that pump power flows through the switch when the pressure is up. Screw the tee into the block and you are done . Now this must be for a carburetter engine only . In the event that you run out of gas , just use a modern fuse with two spade connectors and just plug it into the leads to the pressure switch and turn on the key . The power to the pump will fill the carb float bowls and the engine will start. Gary koolhoff , either your pump is drawing a lot of amps or the connections are corroded.

DO NOT LET A BRAND NEW ENGINE SET AT IDLE !! maintain the RPM at or around 1500 RPM to keep the oil pressure and to lube the cylinder walls. Do not be concerned about a little oil smoke on a new engine . Drive the car as you plan on driving it all the time . Not a good idea to spin the engine up to high Rs when not under a load . I agree the oil sender cold be faulty , a common problem. I just went to the parts store and bought a cheep mechanical gage. I think it was less than $15.00 , connected it to the engine where sending unit is screwed in . This will tell you what the oil pressure really is . Mine came with enough tubing that I could have the gage on the console inside so I could see what was going on as I drove the car. I am getting about 25psi at idle and around 50 while driving . This is after warm up. Your engine will run better if you just drive in normally as you want to later . It will brake in better. I am not saying to go out and drag race or see what the top speed is . Be mindful of the temp as well as the Oil pressure. Gary

I don't know by your description what you have or talking of. The Dists. that you should look for are '79 through '83 Manual is what I have been told to find. Which I have. I do not know if the advance curve for a turbo is different or not. I have a non turbo and do not know any one with turbo part to compare. The module on the side of the dist. on the '79--'80 will show 12 80 marked on it . This is the correct one. If you use the other type you must change the vacuum advance pot and add an additional vacuum line to manifold vacuum . Plus the addition of a retard limiter. Which must be fabricated by you . Simple to do, by the way. If you or any one is going to do this mod of a ZX ignition , be sure to get the part the dist bolts to , that attaches to the block. The 240 part will not work with this new dist. Gary:rambo:

I had a new windshield installed in my 240 , it has the darker tint along the roof line , good improvement but not original , they used my gasket $175.00 . I got one price for a Nissan part but it was a few days wait and the price was $375.00 Needless to say , since I don't care about OEM , I went with the $175.00 I have a good wind shield in my attic but the difference in price between them installing my glass and the new one wasn't that much and they wouldn't guarantee my glass and they did theirs . If you MUST have a Nissan marking on the glass , if you can find a new part that is one thing, other wise the difference between a bone yard glass and a new one is only about $40.00. Gary:rambo: