beandip

the one on the far left looks like one of our members ! Just put a foil Bennie on that one E .

What abou rised

What about the lash pads . Are they correct thickness . The towers only would need to be shimmed if more than .030'' was milled from the head. I am not sure what you are experiencing. If you adjust the valve with the cam lobe straight up and the setting is correct then when you rotate the engine . The rocker over compress the valve ?? Gary

Steve , I also have a '73 and went with the harness that is being touted . I am not sorry one bit . If you are concerned that the set up will look hatchet . Believe me it is first rate. I have installed Hi wattage H-4 and am VARY glad that I did. Even with the 90/100s I am still running the stock alternator and have not had any trouble . With the head lights on the fuse box stays cool completely where before it would heat up even with the old sealed beams . If you save your multi light switch alone it is worth doing the new harness . Price one of those . With the head light harness my dash lights are brighter also . In my opinion , not installing one is a mistake. Gary

Could be Roadster carbs. Contact ZTherapy 503-587-9800

There are two professional engine builders on this web site. Phred and Paul aka burrap . Not to say curtus240 isn't correct here . Gary

Welcome , I don't know how much aide we can be. I suggest that you contact Ztherapy . They are in the SU business. This is what they do . Gary

Well Joe welcome to the club. Good luck in your decision for what you would like to have . I drive a '73 240 and have redone her for me. From out side she is stock other than the color and early bumpers. I did install a ZX engine and other mods . Early Z in rust free condition are becoming difficult to find , but once in a while they pop up . Gary

A couple of years ago we tried a RX-7 pump I had on a stroker with tripple Mikunis and it worked great. This was my pump but another's engine. I have since installed it on my Z with SUs and again it works great. We didnn't find any lack of flow on the stroker and I tested the pressure at just a shade under 5 psi. the pump is from a '79 rx . I like the pump on my Z because it is quiet and can hardly be heard even when the engine is not running . I have however installed a oil pressure switch that activates the fuel pump only after the engine has 5 psi oil pressure . Also I installed a inertia switch so in the event of a crash the pump will stop running . Crispy critter is not something I want happening . Gary:rambo:

Pull all the bulbs effected and clean the bases and inside the sockets as well as the connectors. Vinegar works on a Q tip . Don't forget to wipe clean with water to neutralize . This is one place a LITTLE , WD-40 is good to finish. Sounds like corrosion is causing high resistance . Gary

Just a helpful hint . Any time you suspect a fuse , don't just look to see if it is burned . Remove it and check it with a meter. Sometimes they look good and are not. Sure saves a bunch of work searching all through the wiring and connectors and finely finding that the first place you looked was the problem. Gary

If when the joint is lubed , do not push grease into the joint untill it shows. Stop when you see the rubber seal expand. If you are seeing grease , then the seal is out of it's seat and it will fling the grease out of the bearing cup as it spins . I must have changed close to 100 ujoints or more in my life time, and have never bent a yoke. What in the heck was he doing other than no paying attention . Gary

That's odd, my build date on my '73 is 8/73 . I am registered on Zhome aswell. Gary

I installed a '82ZX engine in my 240 and kept the SUs. The engine runs great with the carbs. I tried a few different needles and found the 54s which are stock work the best . If you have a 280Z or ZX why change from the injection ? I have been told the engine running SUs develop a little more low end power . But not enough to be making the switch and giving up the drivability of injection. There are members that have stripped off most of the emissions stuff from the injection and the engines run great. You cannot run the injection fuel pump with SUs unless you add a pressure regulator .

If you can rotate the drums by hand , then get a large rubber hammer or a large ball-pein and a block of wood. To remove the drum you must dislodge it from the hub in the center of the drum. Spray this area with PB Blaster . Take the RUBBER hammer and strike the outward face of the drum at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock. Then at 12 then 6 . Do this three or four times. Then place the block on the back of the drum lip at 9 and strike the block with the hammer then at 3 . you are rocking the drum back and forth working the drum off , so you are striking the block from behind toward the outside of the car . Now if the drum cannot be rotated because the brakes are adjusted too tight. There is a hole in the face of the drum about 1/2 inch in diameter. You must lift the adjuster up and back off the star wheel then turn the star wheel down to loosen the adjustment once the drum can be turned follow the above instructions . All the best . I have never seen a 240 that had any other adjustment port for this . Just the one in the drum. Gary

I was fabricating a bracket for my choke cables and was on my third design . I mentioned what I was doing to EScanlon , and we had a discussion similar to what he posted here . I ended up pulling the choke wires out of the sheaths and found a few small bends that were rubbing . I coated the wires with white lube and reinstalled everything . The result is the choke is so smooth and effortless that I didnt need to go through the trouble of making the bracket. I agree with Carl , this is one more design flaw in out Zs . How ever with a little effort the chokes cable work smoothly and effortlessly . Gary thanks E. S.

You might try Danny's Datson's . He is quitting business and may have a few in stock. Worth a try . Gary

Just one more thing to think about . As if you need to hear this . Each time these engines are shut down . There are two cylinders open to the out side air and moisture. This is because there is a intake and a exhost valve open. In addition the valve stems ALL are exposed in the ports if open. If they are rusted they may stick either closed or open . Also the rust could destroy the valve seals. Be vary sure that the valves are lubed all along the valve train by pouring oil over them. If you have the manifoulds off shoot WD 40 over everything . Just pay attention that the valves are moving up and down when the engine is rotating , BEFORE spinning on the starter . Other wise you could damage the pistons ,head , or valves . That is if one or more stick open when the piston rotates up. Right Mike ! Gary

I use to have a dist with points about 6 years back , there should be a secondary adjustment down on the dist shaft that will allow a further advance. I set the timing at 10 degrees BTDC . At least to to start with . Depending on what cam and such you are using. Unless you are trying to keep your car Concourse correct . The best thing I did for my stock L-24 was to install a ZX dist and coil. Bar none . GARY one more thing after rereading your post . When you are running at a retarded timing setting the engine will likely run hotter . I used to live down there in So cal . Do use coolant mixed at 50/50 . Not only will the engine run cooler but you will have better corrosion protection . Summer or winter . Gary

If your angel grinder is air powered you will need a decent compressor. I have a small one that has two cylinders . The kind for running a number of nailers . I will not power even a small die grinder for more than about 30 seconds. If you are thinking of spraying any primer or paint . Buy once and get a good one . Get the set of hammers , you will use all three at some point. Harbor Freight sells a body kit for around $20.00 that has the dollies and body hammers . This is also a good place to find the air tools to. The tools they carry are not up to professional grade , but for the average person they are great. I have a angle die grinder that I have used a ton . It was only about $9.00 when it goes gunny sack I will just toss it and get a new one. Gary

No grease points , however if you are hearing undue noise check ALL the ujoints. There are four on the half shafts. Another thing while you have the car up off the ground . Rotate the rear wheels and see it you can hear any noise or feel any vibration from the axel bearings . Gary

Yep sounds like good pressure. If you are truly concerned buy a cheep manual gauge they run about $15.00 and remove the oil pressure sender and connect it there . this will give you exactly what is going on. My gage was reading ZERO at idle , or nearly so . The manual gage told me 25 PSI at idle and around 50+ while driving. I installed a new sending unit and all is well . Generally you will see more pressure when the engine is cold and it will drop when at temp. This is normal . When the engine oil is cold and the pressure is high, there is a relief that bypass and will not allow the pressure to go beyond 70 PSI . GARY :classic:

I have a '73 Z and I used Window channel from JC Whitney . Window channel comes in 8' lengths for about $8.00 each and you need two . Part number #18SB4877X The inner belt '' fuzzy'' stuff. It's for the top of the inner door. $15.00 for a 6' length , one is needed .19SB3480P I attached it with pop rivits . I trimed the fuzzy stuff away from where the flange of the pop rivit will seat so that there is plenty of room and it will not touch the glass and they are unseen Gary

Sounds like you need the club's parts CD . I just tried to pull up the info on my parts CD , but I am having problems with my computer . Sorry .Gary