beandip

I must agree with what others have said . I have similar damage under my Z . I think this kind of damage is from driving off a curb and hi centering. At least this is what mine seems to be . I replaced the floor on my passenger side but it was because the floor was cracked length wise along the floor rail. I would just treat the metal and POR it . Gary

Is there some reason you don't want to go with a up grade and use a electronic ZX ignition. They are a great upgrade. I just picked up on from a '81ZX that is in fantastic shape for $25.00 . For a spare. I have been running one in my car for 6 yrs. Started with it in my L-24 and moved it to the F-54 engine now in my 240. Vary simple to install . Just do a search , there is plenty of posts on this mod. If you do need help with this just ask . Gary

There should still be one where Bryan outlined. there should also be one between the electric pump and the tank. Back on the passenger side between he rear axles and the tank. There are also small, vary fine screens where the gas enters the top of the carbs float chambers. That is if someone haven't removed them . Gary

Well I found the solution on my car , I just lubed all the rotating portions of the throttle linkage and the plastic connectors . She no longer has any other idle positions . Just the one that I have set. Shortening the springs will also do it , until it binds further . Gary

If you are running SUs there is no benefit to pumping on the throttle. SUs do not have any accelerator pump . Depressing the throttle only opens the butterflies and that is all . Adding choke is what is needed on a cold engine. Albert, are you in an area that has summer heat ? sounds like hot fuel lines . Are you running an electric fuel pump? These were added to the Zs in '73 to alleviate the peculating of the gas in the fuel rail. Just a thought. If you add choke will the engine fire up ? Gary

I want to chime in here one last time. The Marine Clean . This is not just a degreaser cleaner. If used on a polished aluminum or Mag wheel it will dull the finish. I used it to clean my wheels after I spent about 3 hours polishing and removing the 30 odd years of neglect. I was preping for paint. I needed to re-polish . It didn't hurt anything but it caused me to redo what I had just finished. However it is a class A cleaner and I have used it to prep for other paints as well as for the POR . I have used it on my front suspension and so far after driving my Z about 8000 miles since applied , I haven't found any chips or problems in the finish and it doesn't seem to be effected by the Sun so far. It's only been a little over 4 years though . Gary

I haven't used the Dynamat , but if I remember correctly , form when I was looking into this stuff , that it is a heavy product. I would certainly think about adding much weight to the doors. Also remimber I used over 75 sq ft of product and total it was only about 45 lbs. I would have done like ED and put the ultamate on the roof . However this was a new product to me and I was un sure of how it would react to the heat in summer. Now I wouldent hesitate and would use it on the roof. One advantage , I think , of the B-Quiet product is that the finish is not a tar based surface but aluminum. My 2cts Gary

I agree 100% With Bryan here. I have a system but I will not tell anyone other than my closest friends how it works . security is only good with this if now one knows what has been done. A certain member came by my house when we ,EScanlon and I , were installing my system. That vary evening he came on this forum and told everyone what was done and how to disable it and my name . I had some choice words to say about the STUPIDITY of this person. And he knows who he is and I am still pissed about it . Even though he went back and edited the information.

Just a thought for information on composition that would be resistant to oil. Try and contact a work shoe company . They may tell you what the shoe soles are made of for there oil resistant shoes. Just a thought . Tomo you must be kidding RTV ?

for what it's worth, I bought my floor Jack at Harbor Fright for $40.00 on sale. It's a 2 4/2 ton . I have only been using it for 7 years but I have no complaints. I have used it plenty during my reconstruction/re fresh of my z. One thing I think that is important , other than capacity, is good quality wheels that are not the little small one you see on some of the offerings. If you need to move the car with the jack to reposition it or something the jacks with the small wheels are difficult to use. It was mentioned that it is your life that is under the car . I NEVER go under my car when it is only supported by any jack. Jack stands are SO important and don't skimp here. Besides the weight rating look at the spread of the legs . To narrow and the car can topple , if you are pulling hard on something . I would like to second what webdawg said. Having a over capacity tool is never a bad thing. My 2 cts. Gary

I have had the B-Quiet installed for about 4 years now. I have not had one problem with it coming loose or any rust. How ever I prepared the surfaces vary will with POR using it inside the doors and on any metal surface that was bare metal and some painted surfaces as will. I did apply it to the outer skin of the doors as will as the rear fenders, as far as I could reach. Also to the backs of the plastic trim panels in the hatch area and inside the hatch and spare tire well . I covered the fire wall up to and including the cowl . About the only place I didn't put it was the underside of the roof . This material seals to the metal and if you have treated the surface with POR and done it properly I cant see how it can rust. Unless it comes from under the car. By all means DO NOT use any insulation like the pink stuff for attics, in the doors and the rear fender cavities . It will muffle sound but will NOT allow any air flow and you WILL HAVE RUST PROBLEMS . Gary

I use 1 gal of coolant to one of water and this about what it takes to fill her up . I wouldn't add the anti/freeze until after you have run the engine some because if you find a leak in a fitting or hose or what ever and you need to drain the coolant to remedy the problem then you either have a mess or loose the stuff. When you first start the engine watch the temp gage closely because you can trap air in the head and block and over heat the engine before the thermostat opens and allows the water to circulate. I prefer to start the engine and while she is at idle , keep feeling around the spark plug area and when the areas become hot, shut the engine off and let it set for 5 min or so. This will allow the heat that has been generated to cause the thermostat to open . Then start her up and be checking for leaks. If you don't find any , drain the radiator and pour in the the gallon of Coolant . You may want to have a richer mix being you are in Alaska. So a 50/50 mix may not do it for you . Gary

I have heard that there is a group from Canada that caravan down through Washington and Oregon all the way to San Diego. If I can do this I would like to pick up the bunch coming down. I have heard of Solvang show however it is off the beaten track and it would be a maybe . I have to consider finances in all of this. But thanks to all . I have plenty of time but a limited amount of funds. Especially with the $3.00 + cost per gal and I am looking at 2800 miles at least plus expenses. Gary

Sure, drain the oil and filter and use some good 10w-30. If the brakes are ok and the tires are safe. Just drive the car arround a bit the rings may be in need of use. Hopefully. Watch to see she dosn't over heat. After you have driven the car some , like for a few days, re-test the compression. then squirt some oil in each plug hole and retest . If it is rings the compression will increase with the addition of the oil. If you have the time before you drive the Z like I said ealier, put some ATF in the cylinders. It is a 5w oil that is highly detergent oil and it may help if there is a sticky ring situation. Let it soak overnight. Then do as above. this is what I would do . Gary

If you are driving a injected Z some other member will help . If you are us carbs and they are SUs . Holding the throttle down or pumping the throttle does nothing. You must use the choke to rich en the mixture for a cold engine . Other wise these engines are hard starting cold. With Weber's , they have accelerator pumps that will pump raw gas when you pump the peddle . My engine when cold , I pull the choke full on and when the engine first starts to catch I push the lever forward about half way. usually 2 revolutions and she starts .

I installed a 280 ZX engine in my '73 and am running the SUs , that were on the old L-24 . No problems there either . there is a remarkable difference in performance and I think you will like the difference . The crank and stroke of the L26 is the same as in the L-28 the difference in the blocks is the bore size. the F-54 block has a different casting in the water jackets but other than that it also is alike. The L-28 , dished pistons , F-54, flat top pistons in the NA configuration and dished in the turbo version. Keep you present fuel pump it will be what you want with the carbs . In my Z I found the 54 needles to work the best. I tried different ones and came back to the 54s . I have headers and large exhaust and a street cam and thought I would need richer needles but found that was not the case for me. I live at near sea level . Gary

Yes K & N makes a filter cartridge for the stock air box . I have been running mine for a few years now. E-2910 is the number. I found mind on line as the parts stores most likely don't carry that one . They should be willing to order it for you though . I have used K & N air filters for years on all my vehicles . Gary:)

Good Job, Glad you had asked prior to looking at the Z. For anyone reading this thread. the MILKY looking fluid on the dipstick , in all likelihood was water in the oil. Blown head gasket, or cracked head or cracked block. Gary

If you still have the stock air cleaner , it is a tuned component for the engine. It will provide better performance than the Cool looking single filters.

Well on my '73 I used about 75 sq ft of B-Quiet ultimate . Found it to be easy to work with and it seems to have done the job intended. I applied it over the interior of my Z . All the interior was removed and the Z was a rolling shell at the time . After paint, this was when I installed the product. Nun of which have come loose any where. It was meant to help deaden the resonance in the sheet metal which it did vary well . I am happy with the outcome. Gary

Rufcut, as was stated by fun in my Z , those places and also look at the bottom of the fenders both in front and just to the rear of the doors. If you see any bumps or bubbles in the paint , that's rust coming through from in back of the panel. The area to the rear of the door is more troublesome that the front fender GENERALLY. But do pull the carpet on at least the passenger side and expose the metal floor and have a look. All this is more important than how well the engine runs . That is , as long as it isn't a smoker or you hear some rattling sounds . But being you have owned cars in the past you should be fine in this regard. The rust is the biggest enemy with a Z . Gary

I think you will find the good shops will be this way for a time frame . I know of a good shop in Idaho if you want the information. He seems to have a waiting list though . But it is worth a check if this would work for you distance wise . Hiring the work done is a spendy endeavor especially if it is done right. Most any one can slap bondo. But a good job takes talent and skill . Gary

The engine weigh about 500 lbs , so any of the three will work . Just one thing , make sure that it has four ''legs'' . I have seen some with only 3 and they are designed for disaster. Also if the spread of the front legs is too close it makes the whole affaire tippy when you roll it aground . It is unsettling enough having the engine sticking out like that, Be sure to use HARDENED steel bolts to secure the block to the stand. There is quite abit of leverage with the engine being held from one end like that . Phred makes a great adapter that allows you to bolt the block from the side. This is a fantastic improvement in that you then can access both ends of the block and it is vary easy to rotate it, for cleaning and painting. Gary

Same here , I have a '73 auto trany with a ZX engine and a gear reduction starter . no problem. I have a spear regular starter if needed. the numbers change because of different models , gear drive or not , but they will fit. The differences I found is for the early style weather a auto or a manual trans . those are different and not compatible.

Graham, It depends on what you are doing with your Z . If you want to replace all the seals then the kit is the way to go . Piece meal is much more spendy. Motorsport , black dragon , too intense restoration . all have what you need . The best manual is the Nissan shop manual . Other than that How to Restore Your Datsun Z car is a close second by Wick Humble , check B Dalton's Books. There are more than one supplier of seals and I used precision seals. The professional installer for my windshield told me that they were the best , softer and sealed better. I used the kit from Motorsport and found them to be 1st rate. However I replaced all the seals , windows doors hatch everything. Gary