beandip

Welcome to the club. You will find that there are some great people here of all ages. The one thing is we all love the Z. Gary

Pull the plugs and do a compression test. This will tell you which cylinder is in trouble. Could be a broken ring , a hole in a burnt piston. Several things . None of which are good. Most likely you are looking at a rebuild .

Set the timing at 10 degrees before top dead center.

Rahail, You have a fine looking Z. As for wheels, I think they are like art. It's in the eye of the beholder, as to which are the best looking . Motorsport has some great choices available and they should ship to the UK. All the best to you . Gary

Nate, we seem to have gone on to the equipment part of the problem. Back to the repair. Will has hit the ''nail'' on the head. Remove the trim from inside and have a look in the cavity of the dog leg. You most likely will find the rust has gone through the sheet metal causing the bubbles in the finish. You can Temporally repair this with POR . If it isn't so bad that the car is weakened in this area. From what is shown it shouldn't be. Be SURE , if you use POR that you follow the instructions from the manufacturer . Use the marine clean and metal ready to prep the metal , and it is imperative that the area to be treated is dry. You my need to use some of the ''cloth'' to cover the holes from the inside. I have found if this is needed , to paint on the POR and let it set until tacky then apply the cloth and press it in place. Then while still tacky paint on another coat of POR. I actually sprayed the POR into my rocker and doglegs . I didn't have any rust through only surface rust. I dodged that bullet . Harbor Fright has a syphon ''gun'' that works well for that . Only $6.00 too. I doubt the compressor you have will handle any of the air tools that have been recommended. They all need much more volume . I have a electric palm sander meant for wood working . It is a D/A Porter Cable brand . I used the hell out of it on my Z. When I was preping my Z for paint. Since I have no apparitions to be a professional body/paint guy I just used what I had . I did buy a set of air tools at Costco and also a angle die grinder from Harbor Fright which I used as much as any tool in my project to make ready for paint dealing with the rust issues, and doing the mechanical work. Even these little die grinders use lots of air volume you will find. Not so much pressure but volume . Gary

Well is seems you answered your own question. Hello ! What did you set the timing at? Is the vacuum advance operational ? What ignition is in use, and are there points? Have you adjusted the mixture on the SUs ? Since you said the Z is a '73, is it running SUs or flat tops? Gary

As Arne stated earlier the hose that the parts stores have are too stiff. they will bind and cause the nozzle to wear and or stick. Sorry x-ray but I disagree with you here . I bought a set from ZTherapy about 6 years ago and they are still doing great. UNDER NO SERCONSTANCES USE VACUUM HOSE. It will fail and the header is right there . you connect the dots. Parts stores do have the small hoses but they are for injection and will withstand hi-pressure but are not supple . You can save a few bucks with them however you will not be happy with the results when you start looking for nozzles. Gary

I just used 5/8'' gates heater hose. allow enough hose so you don't kink it. Gary

I picked up a VARY good ZX dist from a '81 a week or so ago for $25.00 at the u-pull-it. the new Distributor will not cure the car from pinging if you set the timing to far advanced. Just like what is causing the problem , most likely, now. The ZX unit is a great mod for your Z. I have been running one in my 240 since 2001. Gary:pirate:

There should be a pipe extending out from the block and it makes a 45* turn and is reduced in size . There should be a hose of about 5/8 inch inside diameter that they connects to the opening in the balance tube . a PVC valve must be installed in to this hole and the hose connected . If you just plug the block breather hole the engine will sludge up badly . The OEM air cleaner with a K&N filter actually will produce more power than the individual ones. May not look as cool though , also the valve cover vent line you now have a little filter on , you will likely find will leak fumes into the passenger cabin . You will also notice that there is a fresh air supply line just below the ignition coil you will need to figure out a filter for that . Other wise dirt and dust will be drawn into the fuel tank . Gary:rolleyes:

you need to buy a manual.

this looks like the dash pot. On the stock setup and emissions stuff , this was part of it. The dash pot function was to delay the throttle from closing quickly when you lift you foot off the gas peddle. There by keeping the engine from dieing . Mostly it came into play , when in traffic and start to accelerate and the car in front of you stops and you need to brake quickly . This keeps the engine from dieing . Gary

Beandip, What kind of power could i expect to get out of a rebuilt L24 with 72 Carbs, some new cams, P&P head, and some new pistons? I really just want to make this car a nice Daily Driver, and have the ability to take her to the track and have some fun around the corners. With the weight being soo low, i could deal with less Hp and Tq. First of all the with the L24 block you are limited in what you can bore the block. Second the crank has a shorter stroke than the 260 or 280 engines . The longer stroke crank can be used with the L-24 block but you will need to relieve it some so that it will clear . I have been told this but not done this my self. Usually builders just use a 280 block and crank. If you were to want to build a stroker the '73 rods are what is used if available. Robello builds some vary astounding engines with these engines. However if you wish some fun on a track the stock engine will provide ample power to have some great fun Auto X ing . Suspension and tires are more important than the HP of a big engine . Although you can never have enough of that. How fast do you want to spend ?? Gary:knockedou

look at post #3 he laid it out for you. The valve has letters marking each port. sblake posted what you need. You should also have a look to see if the evap tank is still there and is connected . Gary

The door post badge is missing and the Vin is HLS30 66772 I am trying to determine what month/year the Z was built . I know this is a long shot but if there is any one with a Vin # close to this one it would help . Thanks Gary

Well since I am first in line here , Welcome to the club and it is great that you found what sounds like a good Z. As to the question of the HP you want the L-24 will not do the job. In fact a 280ZX built will barely make the grade. You should consider a V-8 . There is another web site that is more into this type of mod. Hybridz this is not how it is spelled but I am sure some one will jump in and correct me . Good luck in your quest . Gary:rambo:

What this is a one way valve that allows fresh air back into the fuel tank as the fuel is pumped out. If there is expansion in the fuel tank, like on a hot day the pressure is relieved and the fumes are vented into the engine block. It looks like the PO has made it inoperable by looping the hose from one port to the other. Do you know if the evaporative tank is still in use ? If you are unaware of this tank. It is located to the rear of the passenger side rear wheel in back of the plastic trim panel . There are several hoses involved with this system and many of us have removed all of this. You still need to keep the fresh air vent line though. There has been many posts and threads on this . Do a search and you should be able to learn all about it. Gary:rambo:

Another thing is to check as best as you can for a coolant leak . You might have a heater core or water valve beginning to leak . It doesn't take much to cause the problem you are seeing . Gary

:classic: Before you go any farther with the project . If the pins are still as in the pictures . Spray the tapered pin well with Kroil or PB Blaster and set soak overnight. Do as jetjock said and put the nut on the pin and protect the threads , use a soft hammer like one of brass or lead . If neither are available use a piece of aluminum , hard wood , something to protect the pin . And tap it and it should dislodge. DO NOT try and beat the spindle pin to remove it. If you damage the ends then the puller will not be of any use to you. You are welcome to use the puller , send me a PM with your address and I will send it to you . I only require that you return it to me and pay my shipping cost . Which should be just over $8.00 . The spindle pins will be saved this wan and they run about $25.00 for new ones . It's your call . Gary:rambo:

That's the one that attaches with OEM Duct tape right ?

I removed all the glass in my '73 and replaced all the rubber, after painting. I recommend using some Kroil or PB blaster. and lit it soak over night before attempting there removal . Be vary careful with the frame when you separate the it to remove the glass. If your rubber that is installed now is in good shape and not brittle . You think of just taking the whole assembly in and have the tint installed. Of course having the glass out will be a better job. As long as the frame doesnt come apart. I replaced the mounting screws with stainless . Be careful when you remove the glass from the frame , spread it only as much as necessary .

Vicky, I am so sorry for the loss of your best friend and Husband. And at such a young age. All so sudden it really puts you in a state of shock. You said you were near family . Count on there support. We mostly here are strangers but feel a connection and are saddened by the loss of one of our friends too. I am so sorry . Gary

No. Find a '79 thou '83 ZX Dist. from a manual shift ZX . The '79-'81 has a module on the side of the dist marked 12 80 This is the module you need for your application . All the years mentioned above have the same Dist but the later ones have a different module with one more contact meant for a computer input . For a stroker, you need a crank from a Nissan Maxima diesel engine the rods used are from a L24 , preferably , from a '73 block . They have larger 9mm rod bolts. Not mandatory but I am told these are the ones to use. From there a L-28 or F-54 block. To make the power gain the block should be bored. Generally to increase the CCs to 3000. Then most use the P-90 head or P-79 or 47 as second choices. Debate will ensue over this one . Then which ever head used much porting and other head work must be done. Then for a engine like this Wolf ignition , triple carbs , Weber's or Mikunis. Then headers and a 2 1/2'' mandrel bent exhaust system .

This is the intent. to keep the fumes from the environment. If you know about the dangers of gasoline vapors , I am with you about the surprise to find it in the cabin. My self I did away with the thing altogether. Gary

This is just a side note. On the Handel, to keep from accidentally damaging bumpers or painted surfaces I use a section of plumbing insulation . The gray close cell foam tube stuff . On my saddle I use one of my old ''lambs wool'' mittens that I used to wash my truck. I serves the purpose fine and there is no metal to metal contact . Gary