beandip

Today I bought a '84 Maxima Alternator. Does anyone know what the output is for one of these. I did a search but only found several threads on how to do the upgrade. I know how I just want to know the Amp output . Gary

Classic failure of a 12 80 Module. Loose the Blaster coil , and go with a OEM coil and all will be good. Just went through this with a friend and after frying 3 modules found the Blaster is the cause. Puts out the wrong values for this ignition. Thank you Kim Blough for the heads up. Gary

Chaddy, if you put a floor jack under the diff. and watch it when you raise the car, it it moves first before the car starts to rise. It is the diff mount. It could be the u-joints also, so have a close look at them . There should be zero play in the u-joints. Gary

Just how much smoke are we talking about here? In my experience some blue smoke at start up first thing in the morning is valve seals. The oil leaks down the valve stem while setting for a long time. How many miles on this engine? This will have a direct bearing on what you can expect from it. Is there a oil consumption problem? Like does the engine use more than a Qt. of oil in a thousand miles, or two thousand? You could have seals leaking some and or rings that are getting worn. For what it will cost to rebuild things , a little smoke now and then is not a big deal. If you have a leak down test done , this will tell you what is going on. Do not buy any parts until you know what is in need of replacement. Especially bearings and rings , or valves, or any of the valve train. Gary

I don't know if you are open to checking the bone yards . I just pulled some from a '77 280 and they were in decent shape. Just clean with lacquer thinner and look like new. Just a thought. If you have the metal part making the rubber to fit is a easy thing. As you said freeze then drill . Gary

Nissanman, you are absolutely right if this is the case. Funny thing though both of my engines were AC equipped at some point. I think you are right in that the pointer may just need to be repositioned on the other side. Gary

Thanks guys this is the one. rdfabri the site has been up dated with new info not too long ago. So you might have a look to see it your info is current. Thanks to all. Gary

KTM, My L-24 had the indicator on the driver side, My F-54 block on the passenger side. I have seen it both ways . I now have a pulley that is going to go on the F-54 and this will change it to the driver side along with the pointer. I am changing because it is a light dampener. Like was gone over several times here. Find out if the engine and head has been separated and or if the cam was removed or changed.

I am running just a electric pump. On my '82 zx engine. However I am running SUs. If you are using the injection the old pump will not due. I have been running electric only for years and no manual pump , even on my old L-24 that was in the car before. There is no need to butcher the P-79 or P-90 head for the manual pump. My electric is from a RX-7. Gary

The cam lobes look like they are in the V as best as I can tell in the bottom photo. But is is it on the compression stroke? With the plugs out put your finger over the hole and have someone spin the engine . You will know when the piston comes up on the compression stroke. You can do this with the car in gear and pushing it turning the engine over. Shine a flash light in the plug hole and you will see the piston rise to the top. Now if it is on the compression stroke the cam lobes in a V the timing mark should be at the pointer. Now if this is what you find , remove the cap on the Dist note where the rotor is pointing. This is now #1 connect the plug wire to this corresponding port. then follow with the rest of the plug wires in the FIREING ORDER. I have see guys do them 1,2,3 and so on , FIREING order. The engine should start. Now if the cam , or head has been removed , then all bets are off because you could have the valve timing all off. This is an entirely different matter. Assuming all is correct , then with a timing light set the timing. The degrees of advance will depend on what ignition you have, it looks like a stock 240 dist. Set the timing at 10* BTDC . About where the mark is to the pointer in the picture. My bet is that your 180* off. You have set the timing on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke. A common error. Gary

Maybe that's it . I use Fire Fox also. thanks guys , I am going to try the new datsunzgarage.com/ and see if this works. Gary

Has any one tried to access the site? I went there to check some information and it is gone. I tried last night and a couple of times today, nothing but advertisements from yahoo. I wonder if yahoo trying to sell everything has anything to do with it? It will be a shame if all that information is gone. I have sent so many new Z owners there. Gary:cry:

Has he been messing around under the hood by chance? If he has disconnected the wire that goes from the tach . The ignition wont fire. not knowing what was done to the car it is hard to guess. Look around the ignition coil and see if there is a wire pulled loose there. Hope you are feeling better. This is a lot of car for a teen. I hope he keeps the shinny side up. Gary

Troyz, If you want to contact ezzzzz or 3rd strike . Simply click on the name and it will take you to that person's profile. There you will see a prompt if you want to send a private message, PM, to that person. click on that and follow the instructions. Welcome to our Club and good luck finding your part. Gary

For one thing a early Z must be kept under cover at the least and in a garage, much better. To qualify for a classic car insurance the locked garage is required. By at least all I have checked on. Also as Arne put it, you will be looking at a great deal more than the $1500.00. The insurance companies that are covering classic cars are not interested in what you are describing . Sorry you would be far better looking for a Honda Civic or something similar, for a driver. Gary

You would most likely have more people answering your post if you started a new thread . This one being almost 2 years old. The part you are looking for is available at the Nissan Dealer. I may have one soon in hand. But cannot promise. Waiting for the whole dist to be returned to me. I had the part number written down but I cannot find it right now. Sorry Gary

I also use Hagerty. I opted for the towing also. They guarantee a flat bed and I have 100 miles covered at no extra cost from brake down or accident to where ever I want the car taken. This coverage extends to all other cars I own with no additional charge. Agreed value is $12,000 and my costs are under $200. a year total. I have not heard one complaint from any one that is covered with them. Unlike other companies Hagerty only insurers these type of cars. If you have more than one in a collection the additional cars premiums are a fraction of the first one. Yet another advantage. I have just the one , but my friend that has more told me this. Gary

I think I would have the valve work done by a shop that knows and does Z valve work. They are not like on a Detroit engine. If replacing the rings , you should at least hone the cylinders so the new rings will seat . Another thing to consider is to replace the timing chain , or at least the tension-er and the associated parts, the oil pump is a good idea on a high mileage motor. But you already mentioned the pump.

I Hope you are kidding about the swirls in the water. If you have oil in the coolant ,likely you have coolant in the oil. The head must come back off and drain the fluids. Hopefully you haven't damaged anything. You said a stuck valve? if a valve and piston collide you likely have a bent valve and maybe a damaged piston. Hopefully the valve guide and seals are OK. I am sorry to hear of your problem. Gary

Once again EScanlon nailed it. I did most all of the work on my Z in my garage at home. Scanlon taught me how to work the sheet metal and the proper way to sand and prep for paint. He helped a great deal on the body work . Scanlon shot the color and clear also. I did all the mechanical work disassembling the car and reassembling her by my self, R&R of the engine tranny and all the drive train. For the most part I enjoyed the process , I became discouraged at one point and if I hadn't driven the car for 2 years prior. It would have been difficult to see the light at the end of the tunnel. But I had that going for me and friends that encouraged me. Three years later and I took my first drive. And it was all worth every minute of my time and some times frustration . At first I was vary defensive driving her because of all the time invested. No longer really , she is a strong runner and I love to drive her like she was meant to be driven. Not abused but pushed in the twisties. I would do it again in a heart beat. I don't have room for another project or the funds really so I work on others Zs to get my Z kicks. I learned a lot on this car and made many good friends that I wouldn't have otherwise. Gary

The picture of the engine is of a 280Z with injection. If the car it's self isn't rusted badly and the engine is good . The top could be filled or replaced for not that much money . It would only pay if the rest of the car is sound. I cannot imagine that sort of top in the NW with all our rain. Look closely at the floors. Gary

It is strongly recommended to at least resurface the rockers, or replace them with new. Because they have a wear pattern for the old cam, you could destroy the new one . I would replace the springs also since your new cam is for hi revs . You don't want to float the valves and punch holes in the pistons or bend your new valves. I would do the same thing with a new OEM cam. I know they are spendy but it goes with the territory. In for a penny in for a pound, sort of thing. Do you know what the compression is on your engine now? Because , this is the time to mill the head if you need to , for the cam. The Shop can cc the chambers and tell you what you can expect for compression ratio . From stock you can remove up to .030" with out having to shim the towers. Gary

sblake, you are stating that the ZX hinges are the same as for the later 240Z? If so that is a good tid bit of info. Gary

Straight across swap. Numbers matching means nothing with this project. Sense everything is being swapped around plus installing a 5 speed. If you are going to spend money on a engine , think seriously of finding a good ZX motor and if necessary go through that one. It will perform much better and it is a direct swap. You can use the intake manifold and keep the SUs. I did this vary thing and am vary satisfied with the results. You will need the drive shaft from a 280 Z to mate with the 5 speed. If you are staying with the R-180 diff. both are the same . The difference is with a R-200 Diff, you will need the moustache bar for the R-200 as it is different than the one for the R-180 . Also the mustache bar for the R-200 must be reversed to provide the correct spacing for the larger Diff. the cross member from the '72 must be used for the R-200 also as it is curved and the '70s is straight. This is also to accommodate the larger ''pumpkin''.

It's amazing it even runs. You need to either properly repair the Distributor or replace it . For starters. The timing must be set correctly before trying to adjust the SUs. Then the air intake must be balanced between the two carbs . Then the fuel to air mixture adjusted. Like was apply stated . holding things together with a vice grip and wire wont cut it. Not with this stuff.