beandip

Lets try this again. When the engine is turning over you should have gas flowing to the carbs. Your Z should be equipped with both electric fuel pump and a mechanical one. Information : when you turn the key all the way to start. the power is 12v to the coil and when the key is let to the run position it then runs on 8v. So if the engine is trying to start and wont continue. You need to check the ignition switch . You were told this before . The actual switch is the part at the vary back of the complete switch where the wires are plugged into. If this switch is bad this could cause the electric pump to not be energized also. The electric fuel pump should have power ,the green wire, check it near the gas tank and see if you have any power there in the run position.

Good Find. What are your plans??

about 8 years ago I just went to Home Depot and they made some for me, I have not had any trouble.

Dave is right on , but there is another notch further back also and if you can come up with a 2nd roller, this is where it would go. These rollers help hold the glass from vibrating when you close the door. This in turn makes the window channel last longer, plus the door sounds more solid when it is closed. While you have the door apart, this is a great time to apply a silicone bead along the door stiffener where it almost touches the door skin. Another vary good thing is to install some sound deadener like B-quiet or Dyna-mat to the door skin. Gary

What you are asking it seems is the hoses that connect to the emissions equipment , correct? Not the ignition . I am a 240 guy and cannot help with this part of your engine. The problem here is that there are sensors that control various things like timing and fuel mixture. I am Sure that some one versed in your year of Z will step up with the information you need . If not remember my name and send me a PM. I know someone that can help but he is difficult to contact. All the best .

So much depends on the distance traveled. I also will be driving over 2000 miles to the Nationals . Even with almost everything done on my Z she is still a 35 year old car. So a roll of duct tape and a length or bailing wire will be in the tool box . I know when I have traveled a couple of hundred miles from home , in the past, I am aware of every sound and vibration. There are a few of us from the Portland/Vancouver area planning on making the run south, and stopping at Solvang for the Roadster show on the way down. Gary

Don't feel like the Lone Ranger in this , there are fewer and fewer all the time. Other than my friends cars, I haven't seen a 240z on the road in 2 years maybe longer. A number of 280s but not many. Our weather is kind to Zs too if the cars are garaged. No salt here but lots of rain. Gary

Where did you get those numbers ? Something is way wrong here. .008'' and .010'' is all I have ever seen. Gary z137 nailed it.

You need to systematicly look at what you have here. First off correct the loose wires and what ever you have going on at the starter. There at the starter is a white/red wire that runs form the solenoid to a plug that connects to the wiring harness. This is not a ordinary wire. It is your fusible link. It's function is just like a fuse in that it protects your whole wiring system from burning up if you have a direct short. So don't just eliminate this safety element. You can test the link and see if it is blown. This could be the source of your whole problem. At the coil, there are two black/white wires. One connects to the + side of the coil. The other one connects to the resister at one end and there is a green/white connected to the other end. The one attached to the coil is coming from the tach and the one that is attached to the resister is for the ignition switch. the Tach Must be connected for he engine to run. Do not use the hot wire set up you are using in trying to start the engine . You are getting some sort of feed back effecting the dash lights and who knows what else. Make sure the main battery cables are good , and the batt is charged. Gary

For what it's worth , the K & N part number for he stock air filter is E-2910. I have been running K & N filters for many years on other vehicles and on my 240Z since I have owned her. I bought mine from Summit , but any parts store that carries K & N can order one for you. One thing about them . If you have an injected engine , be sure to follow the instructions provided to service the filter and use only there spray for this. Otherwise you will ruin the filter and if you apply to much spray it can cause problems with the throttle body. I am not a injection guy but three of our vehicles are injected. I am a SU guy. Old School.

Dog , when you put the timing light on the engine is the timing steady or does it waver ? If it wavers you likely have worn bushings in the Dist. and the shaft is wobbling . I had the loss of power with my car . I am running a ZX 12 80 ignition and what I found finely was that I needed to adjust the floats in the SUs. Now she doesn't hesitate to 5500 rpm. to answer your question about the death of a module. I have had one fail in the 5 years I have run this ignition and when it failed the engine just quit like the switch was turned off. I checked the wiring to see if something had come loose, and found nothing wrong. Tried again to start he engine and it fired and ran fine for about a month or so. One time I went to take the car out and couldn't start the engine. No spark , nothing. I had a spare module and installed it and she fired right up. That was almost 4 years ago . I went to my friend that is far more knowledgeable than me when barth , was having the issues with his ignition and I was told by Kim to get ride of the Blaster Coil, that it was frying the Modules. I have always been running with a OEM , ZX coil. By the way I have my timing set at 16* BTDC Gary

I am planning on it. Any one looking for a Zedd Findings floor pan for the driver side on a 240? I will bring it and some other things I have. Gary

I like the look of louvers and have a set like yours . One thing that they do is to help brake up the air flow over the rear of the car and reduce lift to some degree. Also by disturbing the flow of air this way it helps to keep the fumes from exhaust from entering the cabin area. I ran my set for about 2 years and there had been a set mounted prior to mine by the PO . The big down side of these is that they rattle like a marimba band on the hi-way , also mine wore a line down the center of the hatch glass where the center support touches. They do save the interior though and do not restrict your vision at all. I do prefer the look of the metal to those made of plastic, but this is just a matter of taste. Gary:rambo:

There is a way for the newer module to work as Arne stated. You have the right Dist. There is a Z Guru in Idaho that has sent me the instructions to modify your present ZX set up to work vary well with a Carburated Z engine. Send me your email address on a PM and I will forward the information. I haven't done this my self but I personally know the Guy and value his knowledge. This information also will apply to injected engines as well to achieve faster throttle response. It is a simple modification really. The module you have now requires a computer input or it will go to retard timing . That is the problem with it unless you add this little mod. That you make your self. You just need to buy a different vacuum pot. You can contact him directly if you wish, but have patience because he is sometimes slow to respond to email. Kim Blough Idaho Z Car smokyyaro@velocitus.net All the best Gary

I saw Arne's bre before and after he installed it. He is right , about the quality it is vary well done. I don't know what the price difference is, but Les Canaday makes a top notch unit.

Dave you just might like the 260 engine with the longer stroke you should feel the difference in torque. Sounds like a great buy indeed. Gary

Z speed, Are the floor pans that bad really? If they are just dented and pushed up, this can be pounded out. If rusted through this is a whole different matter. I like the looks of your Z . Not a car I would keep as it is . Not to my taste. Especially the hood . To me it takes away from the lines of the car . I would also remove the mirrors from the finders as well. If the car is meant for the track, then that is a different matter. Sun roofs , sorry. I have a Camry with a sun roof and never open it and keep the cover on. I don't know if I would go through the trouble to fill the roof in though. She looks like a great car. I think Spoke wheels look super on a Z. Arne sold his before I could raise my hand. Dave, I am planning on making the run up to Golden Gardens, if all goes as planned. There is a group of us leaving at 7:00 am from Delta Park , by the I-5 bridge. I will be looking for you. Keep a look out for Ole Yeller. Gary

They are still available at Nissan and you will know that the parts are correct.

Ha ha and a mirror from a right hand drive Z won't work. It's been tried

the difference between the two diffs is only 25 lbs. gear ratio is gear ratio period. Makes no difference in performance which diff is used other than the little extra weight being moved. The R-200 is a stronger unit this is the main reason to make a change. I made the change to the r-200 because I wanted the 3.70 ratio. LSD just makes both wheels drive. The slip part is when you go around a corner it allows one wheel to turn less than the other. On a straight away they all will feel the same in the same gear ratio. Cornering or fuel consumption will be also dictated by the gearing not the different pumpkins. LSD on a corner if the power is applied will lock the diff and could cause the rear end to slide out. Actually slower on a road coarse or auto X

should sound super . Since you already have it I would use it. What size are the pipes 2'' ? this setup sounds like you want performance at the top end. Gary

Nathan, welcome to the club. I hope the Z is as good as you want it to be. Keep us posted. Gary

I just returned from buying a new set of tires and now my measurements , which have changed from before , are now 26''at the front fender lip to ground and 25 3/4'' at the rear. So these new Toyo 205/70 14s raised the car 1/2 '' . from the 195s . the rear came up 3/4'' because the old tires were worn down to the wear indicators . The car seems to be quieter , I haven't had a chance to drive it much as yet. Gary:rambo:

To my knowledge the 2 + 2 s started in '74 260s in the USA. this is the first I have heard if any were numbered differently . Wouldn't surprise me though. I am not aware of a special 2+2 or any that are considered rare. Gary

I never use a socket to install spark plugs . I use my bare hands and screw them in finger tight, then tighten with a socket . This way I never cross thread a spark plug. Same with lug nuts. Gary