beandip

this is all basic I know . But some times we pass on some things when we are involved . If you are getting good spark and fuel to the carbs and it is good gas , the timing is correct . The engine should start . Must be one of the three that is not right if the engine will not fire. All the best. Gary

OK, lets start at the beginning. Has this Z been setting for a long time, like years? If so have you drained the gas tank? New clean gas in the tank? Are you getting gas flow to the carbs when you spin the engine on the starter? Are you sure the new plug wires are in the proper sequence corresponding to the firing order? 1 5 3 6 2 4 . To make sure of the engine timing . Remove at least #1 spark plug. put your finger over the plug hole and have some one turn over the engine with the key , do this in little increments. You will feel air pressure when the piston rises on the compression stroke. When the piston is at the top of its stroke on compression. Check the front engine pulley and see if the timing mark is at the marks on the pulley. Also look at the rotor in the dist. It will be pointing to the contact in the cap. This is where #1 plug wire is to be connected to the cap. The rotor turns counter clockwise, and the next plug wire is to #5 and so on.

The vent on the top of the valve cover is to relieve pressure built up from blow by past the piston rings. It is not a intake. The little filter is to stop oil particles form spraying mostly. You likely will smell fumes inside the cabin from the engine vented in this manner. Depending on the model year of your Z the engine is in a closed loop so all fumes are burned by the engine.

Just for information for others reading this thread in the future . If you disconnect the wire form the sender and ground it , it will cause the gage to peg on the full . Then you will know the gage is working or not. The sending unit can be checked with a multi meter. I don't remember the values for the full to empty readings off hand. guy_geo I am glad you solved your problem. Gary

If you have a '73 with the hangers for the rear sway bar. Look for a early '74 260Z sway bar. They have a bend in the middle to clear the differential . The end links are all the same. I have an spare pair of the plates that hold the rubber mounts in place if you need them or want to make your own. Gary

If you coat the fins with paint , it will impede the heat transfer and the radiator will be less efficient. This is the reason you only see a vary thin coating on the grid. On the tanks and frame , '' knock your self out''. do what ever. Gary

I believe at Canby the only award that was popular Vote was Peoples Choice Award. This is my understanding. Gary

The setup you have should be super for the track. Since I use my Z 99% on the street I went with a softer ride. Still handles vary well on the twisties . My springs are linear in design, all the coils are evenly spaced. I have the euro stage 1 springs that Courtesy Nissan might still have in stock. Also KYB G-2 struts. I have lowered my Z a couple of inches and the ride is smooth but firmer than stock. I installed bump stops all the way around also. I am vary happy with how my Z rides and handles. A few years ago Courtesy had 40 sets of these springs only and no other dealer would have them. Gary:rambo:

It was a good show, 140 cars/trucks . The weather was great and the Zs were to. By the way Arne was awarded with BEST 240Z. Vary good Arne . There was some great 240s to judge, and to be picked #1 speaks highly of your Z. Gary:laugh:

You have not indicated what ignition is on the engine , this would help. If you think that it might be fuel related and are running only a working mechanical pump , be positive that there is not a pin hole leak or crack in a fuel line. The pump can be pulling air and can cause what you are describing. What all have you done already? Gary

Should be a good little show. It is a all Datsun/Nissan show so there is lots to look at. There is a event in Washington on the 10 also so that coupled with the Air Show in Hillsboro . It may hurt attendance , but expect to see some beautiful Zs and 5 10s as well as Roadsters. I have only gone 5 time but enjoyed the show each time. Gary

Sorry but now that you have destroyed the spindle pin ends you have to take the whole mess out and find a shop that will take on the job of pressing out the pin. No spindle pin pull I know of can work now. I loaned out my two pullers to a Z driver in NJ and he broke them both. I don't have a working puller at present anyway. Gary

If you have water in the oil , get it out of there ASAP and flush the engine with good oil and a new filter. Water in the oil , the oil turns into mayonnaise and is a poor lubricant . Plus if there is oil in the water it will raise hell with the new rad.

Well you can check to see if the gage is working . Just unplug it from the sender and ground it . Turn on the key on and see what the gage reads. It should peg to the right if it is good. If this is the case the sending unit is gunnysack. If you want to really see what sort of oil pressure you have . Buy a manual oil pressure gage. I bought mine for $15.00 and connected it to the port in the block where the sending unit is normally screwed into. I ran the tube through a opening in the dash and put the gage on the console so I could see it while I drove. I found with a warmed engine I had 25 psi at idle and 50 psi at 2500 rpm. Gary

With your z in ca . If you have any friends there ask them to start calling around the bone yards . There should be some available there. If you want new regulators and such I have no idea.

Doc, I recommend that you educate your self on Z cars before you decide what you are going to buy. You are concerned about the cost of shipping form the West coast. You will pay much more for the same car on the East Coast because so many of the Zs left are rust buckets. No salt on the roads here out west. 240s are becoming harder to find out here. One of our Club members has a nice '72 that he bought in California that he is selling and you could drive it back to Georgia . I think he is asking 6K but am not sure. He has three and decided to sell one.

I used the tried and true buffing wheel with polishing rouges that I bought at Sears. I polished the valve cover and domes on my SUs. I started with 600 grit wet/dry sand paper with kerosene on the cover, water would have most likely been just as good. Then the buffing wheel followed with aluminum polish. Recently I tried the Meguiar's new Hot Rims aluminum polish and I like the results. Works great on my wheels also. On my intake manifold and head I didn't polish these although when they are polished they look stellar. I just use one of the small stainless steel brushes the size of a tooth brush , and scrub the castings dry . It brightens the casting and removes the dirt and dust, if oily the simple green does a good job on the oil.

To answer the question about reaching the vent hose on the top rear of the tank. there is only about 1 1/2'' between the tank and the rear valance. If you can replace this hose without pulling the tank you are a magician. Almost always this is the hose that is leaking.

If you all do a search there has been several times this has come up. I did an article on how to eliminate the evap tank entirely several years ago. I showed dogma how to do it when he came by my house and then he did a step by step on one of the threads. All these hoses and there connections have been discussed several times and how to either replace or in some cases eliminate them. Gary

If you are keeping your Z stock and plan on showing the car in that class. By all means keep the wires. In this event I would take them off the car and store them for use when you show the car. Contact Arne, he has a all original early '71 so equipped. Actually I think he pulls the whole Dist. and the original head lights for the same reason. I think he has about 65K on his Z and he drives it all the time. Gary

you have the back top vent leaking. Your tank has a few vent lines that terminate in a evaporation tank located on the passenger side to the rear of the wheel. The vent hoses enter the cabin behind the plastic panel below the rear hatch , and travel to the area next to the filler neck. To do a repair the tank must be dropped and the hoses replaced. If you do not use OEM parts , be sure the hose used is rated for GAS . DO NOT be tempted to use heater hose. Napa has 5/8'' gas rated hose. If you do a search you will find a lot of information in this area. Gary

In Oregon my '73 is exempted and I am fairly sure the cutoff is '74. It was 25 years in the past but that has been changed. At present not all the State is under the Emissions testing. I seem to remember that Cal has a '74 cut off also, however I believe the whole state is under the emissions rules.

Quality doesn't come cheep. This shop does good work , mostly Hot Rods and show cars. Let us all know what you find. Gary

Realize with these gages, is that they are merely indicating pressure. Depending on the setting on your gage will depend on where the needle is at idle or what ever. My gage was showing with a warmed engine at idle about 1/8" up from zero, and above midway while driving at about 2K. I bought a cheep mechanical gage for about $15.00 and installed it where the sender had been mounted, and put the gage in by the shifter where I could see it while driving. At Idle I have 25psi and at 2K 50psi. With the engine room temp the pressure is at 70psi where is supposed to be with the relief by pass working properly. For my peace of mind the $15.00 was a good investment. So now I know what the pressure is when I look at the gage . I used the mechanical unit only for testing.

If you are dealing with the original window rubber , the likely hood of saving it is vary slim. The gasket become stiff or hard after this many years. In an effort to save the rubber you could crack the glass. If you use a razor knife and just cut around the glass and peal off the outer lip and metal , then lift out the glass. Installing the glass with a new gasket. I use spray glass cleaner for a lubricant to make things slippery. Put the gasket on the window and the metal trim ,BEFORE installing the glass. I use a 1/4'' dia. cotton rope to rope in the glass. If you have never done this before or seen it done . I recommend having a glass shop do it for you. Gary