beandip

Its been a while but I believe they are 12X 1.25 . The engine stand bolts to the block where the trans was bolted up . Take one of those bolts with you and to duplicate the size and thread size. Length is determined by the engine stand mount. Measure the depth on the block . Just don't bottom the bolts into the block. Use HARDENED bolts like #9s Not just a common steel bolt. With a inline block there is a lot of leverage on the bolts. Gary

My '73 has the copper washer, and my friend's '71 did also. When I finished assembly on both wheels they were stiff as Oiluj has stated. I had packed with the same grease he had as well. I figured it was likely the grease that caused the resistance. I had packed them well. I watched for any signs of heat , indicating a problem and didn't find any. After driving the Z for some the resistance is gone and they spin freely. I admit this is the first time I have done the rear bearings on a Z, but I have packed at least 100+ on other cars and trailers over the years with no problem. Gary

I recommend that you change to SUs . You will find them to be simple and far better , both for ease of adjusting and performance. The Flat top carbs were installed because of emission standards . There performance was one of the reasons that Nissan went to fuel injection. This brought back the performance the Round tops gave , but they could achieve the emission standards. I am running SUs on a '82 ZX engine in my 240 and recently I took the Z into the Testing station, this car is exempted , I passed and I have zero emissions equipment installed. I was on the ragged edge mind you, especially at idle. Gary

I installed two on each side when I redid my Z. She is a vary late '73 8/'73 . If you are replacing the door weather stripping , the doors are harder to close. I think it is a good thing to have the extra support for the glass.

goth, If your Z is a 240 , as Arne said , lowering the rear gear ratio will give you more power off the line , if this is what you are after. A early Z with a manual trans has a 3.36 to 1 Diff. If you changed to a Diff from a Z that has a Automatic trans. This is a 3.54 to 1. You would feel this difference in the butt-O-meter. Another way is to install a 5 speed and a 3.90 to 1. With the 5 speed giving you a overdrive you will still have a Hwy gear that is reasonable. But you need to do both the trans and diff. with this change. What are your expectations from this Z ? What year Z are we discussing here? How is it equipped ? Sus, Injection, Triples ? Gary

I have been running electric only and have been for going on 8 years. A RX-7 electric pump from the Bone Yard. $15.00, vary quiet and cannot be heard with the engine running and barely with engine off. It supplies 4 psi so it doesn't overwhelm the SUs. I have tried it on a Stroaker with Triples and it supplied them with no problem. It must be from a NON injected RX. I did mount with rubber. Gary

Oiluj . I recently did the exact bearing replacement and using the same grease. I used OEM bearings. Torqued to 200lbs the same as you. I found the same stiffness you experienced also. I have driven the Z now about 300+ miles and the other day I lifted the rear and checked the rolling resistance and all is vary good. I recommend that you set the torque just as the manual says and drive the car. Check the wheel for heat once in a while for the first 100 miles . I think you will find as I did , all is good . My 2 cts Gary

I am a fisherman and I had some stainless wire used for making spinners. 350 lb. Test #18 Cheep at the tackle shop. I connected it to the latch and ran it via the holders on the firewall where the hoses run for the washer I put the wire through the firewall grommet where the speedo cable enters the cabin. I made a little handle from some 1/4'' vinyl hose and left it hang up under the dash out of sight. I have had a cable part once but it was easy to open with this in place. Gary

One thing to think about, and Arne mentioned it , is the use of metallic or pearl, I came vary close to adding a gold pearl to the clear on my Yellow. It would have been beautiful , however this last year at the Historic Races there was some slight damage done to my passenger side front fender. This required the repaint of the whole fender and door. Had there been Pearl or Metallic in the paint I would have been screwed because it would have been impossible to match exactly.

If the roof is good and doesn't require any metal pounding and the H. liner can be cleaned and looks good . Save it and leave it in place. Especially if you are interested in keeping the Z non modified : original color, everything stock. If you plan on deviating in any way from original , then She is then a modified and just another Z on the road. Something to think about before you paint a non original color. Personally I did my Z for me to enjoy not just for myself and others to look at. It's your call , you cannot have it both ways. While you have the front fenders off , look at the large hose that drains the cowl cavity into the fender cavity. This draining dumps debris and dirt in the area and causes the rust out of the lower part of the fender and the front end of the rocker. A simple preventive fix is to use a 45* elbow of 1'' PVC and a length of clear vinyl hose to channel the water and crud down and out the bottom drain. The elbow will just fit into the drain hose and the clear hose the same into the PVC fitting. This eliminates this design flaw. Home Depot or Lows have the parts and silicone adhesive keeps all in place. It is all hidden no one will know it is there but it will save further problems. Gary

It is the evaporation tank, this system is the cause of many cars having gasoline fumes inside the cabin area. This was an emissions effort. Not found on the early non American Zs. Colored hoses are not stock and if not rated for gasoline are a fire hazard.

If this is a 240Z , you didn't say, check the Black/white wire coming from the tach to the ignition. this is needed to trigger the module. You did say that the engine had been ok before though. this sounds like the module died.

rahail240, It my be obvious what color I prefer. What I did was to look at the body shapes of the autos that caught my eye and how the colors looked on each one. My thoughts are that not every car looks good with the same color. I have seen some beautiful paint jobs that didn't compliment the auto it was on. The color I chose ''Screaming Yellow'' the 2005 Ford Cobra color. In my opinion looks awful on a sedan . Likewise a beautiful color on a sedan on a small sports car can look the same. I personally think that a bright color on a sports car is appropriate. I subscribe to the ''I rather stand out , rather than blend in", Adage, for what it's worth. Gary

Wing, I hadn't seen your thread or wouldn't have started another. I received the Magazine on the 1st and only had the time to read it last night. The Mention of Goertz , was in passing , and I didn't see them giving him any credit at all for the Z. They only mention that he was in the employ of Nissan prior to the Z and that his influence of design was seen on the Toyota which was too costly of a car. That the Z came later from Nissan, under Fumio Yashida which I believe is the correct info. In any event I think the article is a good one and one interested 240Z owners would enjoy. Gary

I just received a Magazine from a friend , that I have not seen before. There is a 10 page spread with pictures and a well written article accompanying it. The Magazine is Collectible Automobile , the Dec. '08 issue. I personally think that those of us with 240Zs should have a look. Much of the info. is info. we seen in the past. However this Magazine is one that the Collectors look to and has influence in the collectors arena. Classic Zcar Club as well as Zhome are mentioned at the end listing as Clubs for Datsun 240Z Enthusiasts. Gary

the use of different oils in the carbs seems come up every few months . Nissan in the manual I have, it recommends 20w. Since it is not available everywhere I have been told 10w30 will suffice. I have heard everything from brake fluid to 90w gear oil being used. including water! In my own use I was using ATF then Marvel Mystery oil, because this was recommended. I hadn't read the Nissan info. I was having a stumble coming off idle. It acted like ignition in this regard. I could not find the source of the stumble for the life of me. I switched to 20w after reading the Nissan info and the stumble vanished. Looking into this further for a reason, I learned that , using a thinner oil causes the vacuum piston to rise too quickly causing more air to enter the engine BEFORE the fuel mixture had a chance to increase. This causing a momentary lean situation. In a race scenario when keeping the engine up in the high revs/power band the piston is always up anyway and it is not a factor. But on a engine driven on the street it is a different matter. It may make a difference for those of us that live in high-altitude parts of the country like Denver. I have been using 20w exclusively for almost 8 years , not that long I know, and have been vary satisfied with the performance. Both off idle and all through the range of the engine. I use Fork oil. I found 20w fork oil at the cycle shop, bought a qt and have given some away and still am using the same quart.

When I found my Z next to the barn , I met the guy that owned it . He had another Z in the barn he was working on. He didn't know Jack S either and had the exhaust removed and would start the engine and rev it. Just to hear it run with the header. This is what his neighbor told me . After a few times doing this , he did it on a cool evening and warped 4 valves. Come to think of it , this is about the time he sold me my 240 for $500.00. Ha ha . Gary

I installed bump stops all the way around. With the springs cut and the travel diminished some what , the soft stops still offer a great ride. I will bottom on them on speed bumps if I take them at some speed. However even on uneven roadway the ride is good. These are the only energy suspension parts left . I have been told that this is the brand Nissan is now selling for our cars. Gary

jc , welcome to the web site . This is a place that you can find many others infected with the Z virus. Just for kicks if you have a problem of almost anything Z related , try the search function. It will bring up posts from the past covering most everything. You might find it interesting. Where in Washington do you live ? Gary

The coolant was meant to go through the intake manifold for BOTH heating and cooling . The Z club I belong to recently held a car show. And had a Dyno available to us to run our cars. I found it interesting that the Zs that had the water disconnected to the intake manifold had predetonation problem under power. I have the lines hooked up and had no trouble. I realize that driving on the road and on a dyno are two different things , but with the exhaust manifold only inches away , think about it before you re-engineer a proven method. Believe me after 35 years you are not the first one contemplating this change. I suppose if you live in a cool climate you could get away with it. But having the coolant going through the intake does NOT effect the performance. Save your old air pump. In the event that you have to test for emissions , Just the core charge is $200.00 for one of these.

As much as I like the sound of a Z engine under power. I am so glad you don't live in my area.

Welcome to the Club. I can imagine that it is difficult to locate parts where you live. I admire you for saving this Z. If we can be of help please ask. We will do what we can. Gary

One of the couples in my Club has a four post lift. they have a 240Z up top and his muscle care on the ground. there garage is a typical 2 car. With the high ceiling the electric garage door rolls straight up and out of the way. The four post do limit movement around in the garage . Getting in and out of the bottom car is not a problem. I don't know what brand it is , but from the looks of it , it looks vary heavy duty . It uses compressed air to latch the safety latches as it rises and it has a large hydraulic ram attached to a cable system that lifts the ''runners''. I am 5' 10'' and there is plenty of room to walk around and under the lift. I personally would shop around and look at the 2 post lifts. Just for comparison sake . As long as the posts are off set then there is no problem opening the doors. This is the type brake shops and tire shops use so they can access the suspension and work . I wondered about stability and have been assured that the 2 post are vary stable. I don't own either , these are just my observations. I was surprised that they are not really that expensive. The two post lifts do not take up nearly as much room, this is a positive in there favor. I can get the brand that they have if you want. Just send me a PM Gary

One thing to consider switching from the OEM to the Polly. Is this Z for use primarily on the street? I ask this because I just removed my Polly bushings and went back to OEM. The road sound and gear whine was driving me nuts on long cruises. Now the inside of my Z is at least 50% quieter. I notice no difference in handling at all. My 2 cts. Gary:knockedou

On our last Cruise one of our club members hit a deer. ''Bamby killer 2'' Sent the deer flying into the bushes . the only damage was a bent License plate two seat cushions and the jangled nerves of the driver and passenger. This was in the Oregon Cascades last Saturday. Arne was there.