beandip

In all over the past 3 months there were over 350 z cars crushed here in Ptln. of the total about 100 were 240s . It s a sad thing to see. Three years ago I posted that way back in my youth when involved with doing this vary thing with " Hot rods" . The same thing happned. It seamed that over night the yards dident have the fenders and windows and grills any more . Well it's happening again . With the internet it helps to find stuff but things are drying up. For myself I have replaced both front fenders , the engine, and diff. and am keeping the old parts. 2manyzs is right he dosn't have 2many . I wish I had a place to park a couple.

why wouldent you change it ? Think about it , was the oil fresh 12yrs ago ? Most likely not . Can water vapor condence in the unit over the years of sitting ? Most likely yes. Everyone knows that can do damage , why not spend a little time change it.

:classic: Thanks . Some vary good information. I do have a question on the process of jump-starting . I always attach the jumpers from the good batt. car + to + of the batt and - to ground on the engine of the discharged car . I have been told that this will help protect the alt. . I have done this several times in the past with out difficulity . Have I just "dodged the bullet" or is this good info. and a method to follow?? Good info on the shutting down of the charged car before disconnect, this I dident know but makes vary good sence.

:classic: If that isn't it do check the float levels .

what is with the water in the first picture are those tears of joy !!! From what I have heard of the lack of Zs , unless they want an arm and your first borne , what is the problem , she looks great. :classic:

:classic: the places to look is first , because you are interested in the car look under the hood. Pull the dipstick and check the oil , see if it is clean this will give y ou a clue as weather the engine has been taken care of. and the general appearence of the engine bay, while you are there take a close look by the Battery and it's support , big rust area. Then get on your knees and look under the passanger floor pan and look by the door jamb and look closely at the bottom of the front fender for little bubbels in the paint same with the area just back of the door down low. If you see bubbels in the paint that is rust coming from the back side, not good . Look inside and pull up the carpet and look at the floor for rust same behind the seat . Check the dash for cracks and the overall interior . As you go to the rear of the car look at the fenders by the wheel wills for rust. Open the hatch and look at the bottom of the hatch and the bottom jamb , rust places. duplicate the inspection along the driver's side . Rust is vary expencive to repair so find the cleanest rust car you can afford. You are MUCH BETTER off paying more for a clean car than a cheeper car with rust and or problems. Believe me. One of the reasons the rust is such a big problem is, that there is no frame and the sheet metal is structural and is the frame. Good luck:classic:

I have hunted almost every year since I was 12yrs old. I just thought that Bamby killer might want to change is mode of huntingROFL , It's to hard on the car ! BY THE WAY HAPPY FAT TUESDAY !:classic: It's raining here 2many and is frocast to continue for the next 10 days or so. Maby thats why I get down from time to time . Maby I should get some " SUN" lamps !

where are y ou? I know nothing about working on fuel injected engines but I have a complete set up from my engine . It is from a running engine I bought and am installing in my 240 and I am running carbs. The intake is a '75 and is polished and it has all the sencers and linkage injecters hoses everything as far as I know . O' I dont have the wireing that connects to the injecters. I am in Portland Ore. lit me know I will be fair. It may be something you can use for parts or to run on your car from what I have been told the '75 intake breathes better than others & it dosent require a EGR . I dont know if this is true . dosent matter to me . as a member I will cut you a deal if y ou want it .Gary:classic:

If I can add my condolences. Here is a little bit of advise take the car to a cusotm auto body shop , if there is one where y ou live. Most of the auto body shops today are not fabricators and just pannel and parts changers . Go to a true body shop.

I want to thank you all, really. I dont want a pity party it's just that sometimes it seems like I am spinning my wheels here. Things are coming along and I just need to pull the rest of the wireing out then start on the metal repair which isn' t that much really after hearing of the problems some of you have had to deal with. On one hand I want to get on with it but , I want to do it right, and not half assed. As Zwolley said when you get to our age and have to ask your self , how long am I going to be able to enjoy this this car, do I really want to spend this time working on her and not driving . I dont even buy green banans ! Ha Ha. For me this part of the process and I like working on her and take pride in the fact when she's done and I can look at the finished car and I can say to myself yah she looks good and I did it . I have been here before and I just need to keep focus . I have done many things harder than this in my life and it all boiles down to keeping a positive outlook. I am taking a few pictures and I will put them on a CD and post some and you can all get a good laff. Especially at my brazing ability , which I may not do and have it done it just depends on $. I SHALL HAVE HER ON THE ROAD THIS SUMMER !! Thanks all Gary:love:

I am in the middle of doing my 240 ,its all torn apart and everything is scattered all over . She is the only one I have and I miss driving the car I love to drive. Her fenders are in the attic her engine is in a barn, and I have all the wireing in my office and a dash in the living room . my wife , bless her , is getting edgey . With gass prices over $2.00 , this was not a good time . Damn I hope to start getting things back togither. With the weather beginning to turn I am getting antsey . 2many I dont know how you doit one thing here I dont have to shouvel rain . thanks to all for listening , I value all of you out there for your knowledge and help , I really do . I hope I dont have a senior moment and forget where every thing is when I go to reassamble the OL' GIRL. I am grateful that I have escanlon for a friend to help and encourage me. But for me at 64 it still is a daunting task. Done it before but I was in my early 20s. Trying to keep my focus. Thanks for listening Gary:classic: 2many thanks to you for the e-mailsROFL

When My Z hits the street it will be running clear covers. I think they finish the look of the car. Wish I could afford the ones with the chrome edging.

have you heard HAPPINESS IS A WARM GUT PILE :classic: That and owing a Z

Things sort of drifted from your question except for 2many. I sent you a pvt e-mail , but one thing about Z-drivers they all like and perfer the car they drive. I must admit I do like my Z vary much. having said that . If what you want is a basic no nonsence sports car the early two seat car are what you seek . The first three years were the most simple and as the years went on they become more complicated. The '73 had alot more emissions crud and as a result less performance same for the '74 but this stuff is easily dumped . In my case I am running '72 SUs and early 240 bumpers, the shock absorber bumpers came in about there. There is a claim that the steel was thicker on the '73 and later but others may be able to shine the light of truth on that claim. For sure I defer to a Alan on that one. As for power and such , it seems that most of us have modified these cars as it is easy as the parts are interchangeable. I am installing a 82ZX 280 engine that has a milled head and an aftermarket street cam and headers. All easy to find parts. I have no air cond. no power stearing . I do have a radio but like to hear the engine and the car so it is not used much. The 240s are noisey inside but that can be fixed. Its mainly most important to find one rust free.

you might check to see if you can run the smoked , they are not legal everywhere.

Tkr , I agree with alot of what you said but personally I still like the 240s profile and stance better , and the size as well. It's like compairing a '57 corvet to a say '80 , both cars are fine looking but I like the size of the smaller car more. now from a comfort stand point I am sure the '79 or for that matter the '83 is better but as the cars get more complicated they loose something in style. It happened to the Vet , the Thunderbird and Continential but the last one is before you were born most likely. I am not putting down the later cars but it's just my preference.:classic:

:cross-eye I have the fuel injecter setup off my '82 if you need one:classic:

what is the translation for thatROFL a tuish is what you sit on I think is that what you mean

I have read ,I think it was on ZCAR.COM of dino results that showed the 10 HP difference but it was on a highly modified engine. one thing I wonder my self is , if I could feel the difference of 10 HP :classic:

from all the information that I have read .030" is the max that you should remove with out shimming the towers. My engine was set up this way and now has 38k on it and the new cam is looking fine . There is a member Phred he is the head guru , give him a post. :classic:

Model air plane engines will be next.:sick:

If you do the zx tranny and not the lower rear end gears you wont be happy off the line, as the trans gearing is higher than what you have now. You need to do both , if only one go for the diff.

working with 240v can rearange your whole life. 110 is one thing but the 240 snake really bites hard. Maybe its so damn cold there your snakes are frozen . Get the book they are less than $11. at home depot and will come in handy if you are going to do any wireing in the garage or repairing any in the house. As a retired contractor please accept the advise. If the snake bites it's all over.

I tried to down load the info. and the computer wont let me download the info . If someone would take the time I would be grateful.. P-79 head on a 54 block milled .030" Thanks :classic:

I have a P-79 head on a 54 block the head was milled .030 and what I was told and also read here on the web was that .030" is the max. to run without shimming. My engine has 38K on it since the new cam and rebuild and I just pulled the valve cover to check the wear pattern on the cam. The towers are not shimmed by the way , and the wear pattern I found was pirfect , to my relief. I did this because I had read here about the rapid cam wear if alignment was off , between the cam and the valve stem length and rocker , and am relieved that all is good. So it appears .030" is ok. :stupid: just thought I would pass on the info.