beandip

I am not the paint person , escanlon seems to know this area, and he has told me he uses a prouduct called RED CAP .:classic:

Is POR available in ozz? Eastwood also has a simular product if there stuff is available to you. www.eastwoodcompany.com I cannot find the e-mail address for POR . epoxy primer and paint may be the next best option and then undercoat to protect from rock and sand chips. :classic: the best to you and yours .

:classic: I saw the pictures and saw a little discolored stuff. Real rust has holes and nasty stuff. Just kidding , looks like you are dealing with surface stuff and that is great and I am happy for you. I am heving to replace the floor on the pass. side and repair the driver side , Plus a little work on the battery tray. I decided to pull the tray because it had rust under it and am glad I did , I can see why this is an area of trouble. I used a tool to remove spot welds and ended up with 6 3/8" holes in the inner fender. Not good . Since I have to have welding done that will be fixed at the same time . I am glad for y ou that the white stuff is going away. Gary

:classic: is Amsoil that much better than the regular oil for the diff. is synthitic the way to go . gary

I am sorry ro report that in Portland Oregon that 240z s are few and far brtween. I still see 280s around and I think that most of the owners are un aware of what they have as a daily driver. It 's sad when I see a 280 that is fairly clean but is being let go , because it is a daily driver and is looked upon as another old car. It is sad. I keep handing out cards and notes to go to classicZcars.ccom and see what they have. There are a lot of 300s and a club , but mosty owners of the 300s , frankly yuppies! Sorry but it's the trooth. the local club is mostly the later cars and I doubt any of them even change the pluggs or get there hands dirty. Gary

I just want to say that the UK and that encludes the auzzis are a extreem CLASS ACT!! I just whitnessed a brefing from the british commander on what is going on in Iraq . Thank you you guys, you are truly our friends thank you . We are all loosing our people for the good of the world , but it dosent make it any easier, when you are loosing loved ones. I pray for our loved ones in harms way . thank you one more time . Gary ,, We are kicking arse and not taking names and dont plan to.

Iam in the process of doing just that. I in fact have a '73 and am installing a 54 block from a 82zx. In my case I am keeping the auto. trans . and the engine is from a manual. The engines and trans. are all interchangable. take a look at geocities.com2001/engine/html there is a ton of great information t here. :classic:

Diff and Trans oil for manual units . I was just wondering and wanting some input on the different brands of this stuff . To start with is Amsoil really better than the others ? Is synthetic beter to use? I am asking for info from actuall use not from adds. I know that the products have advanced since '73 when the manuals were printed. :classic:

are you pulling the diff out or just replacing the rear gasket and oil?

Unless you have just changed the position of the needles before the problen stated leave them alone at least for the time being. If the engine was working and all of a sudden , as you indicated , you experienced a loss of power , unless the needles came loose or something like that I seriously doubt that is the trouble. Back fire through the carbs can either be a lean pop or timing. Have you checked the filters that are in the carbs? Since you have changed the main one what about them? How about the vacume advance on the dist. you stated that you installed the different ignition with no change , is this right? Since you have done this and checked the timing , look to the fuel as the cause. Did this happen right after refueling ? Maby you got a bad load of fuel and some of the crap got by the first filter and has done a number on the filters at the inlets of the carbs them selves and causing a lean situation. This would account for the smooth idle and poor performance. thats my thoughts Gary Another thought Have you checked the oil in the carbs ? this normally wouldent cause this problem out of the blue , but it is easy to check and fix if needed.

I dont think you will hurt the coil but you will most likely fry t he points .

That was going to be my next suggestion . to take everything to a shop to have them pressed out . they have a press and is an easy fix. Not every one has a shop to go to. :classic:

When awhile back that France dident recognise Hitler for what he was . What did the French do when Hitler over ran Poland? What about Hungury? Was there any clues there? Do you see any thing similar with what has been going on in the middle east? What about Iran and how Sadam used gass on them and on his own people ? What about the those that were torcherd and burchard in Kiwate . What about the Scudd misseles that have been fired against the US army ? They DIDENT EXIST is that right. You arnt the only one that has lived around the world, my friend. We as a country stood tall for your country , not once but twice .In just afew years , and this is how we are thanked for our blood. Again I am full blooded French and for the first time in my 64 years of live an ashamed of it. As for the IRA , I dident support them not at all . I will say this about that , I can see why they were doing what they were. And I still cannot understand the situation in Belfast and how England is handeling it. It seems so wrong , on both sides. The auzzies have stood tall by our sides through out history and I am vary prowd to have them as our friends. Even though they talk funny !

I read this post a while back when it was sent to me as an e-mail. I passed it on to all the frends I have , I think is right on and funny as hell. Tell me . Where is the church that the "REV.JACKSON IS THE PASTER" If you remember a few years back there was comic that played a black pretcher at the CHURCH OF WHATS HAPPINING NOW. That is Jackson. :classic:

If he is getting used to handeling this car 4k should be plenty , unless you need a parts car, only kidding. I was just trying to get him to get into the power band of the engine with out loosing controll , he will be doing plenty of that on his own. By the way ed did you mail Phred.

be vary careful of high revs when an engine is not under load! you could easily damage the engine, when not under load you are putting stresses on the engine that it was not designed for. As was stated water in the exhost is usually from condensation . If there is water coming out of the tail pipe after driving 10 miles or so ,you may have a head gasket problem . Most often water will be found in the oil and or oil found in the coolent when a head gasket is blown. If you are seeing "brown dust " exiting the tailpipe , you are most likely reving the engine to extreems, unless you lugg the engine in normal driving and rarely are driving at hi way speeds. There is no reason to rev a engine higher than 2500 RPM with out being under load.:disappoin

there is a great site geocities.com/zgarage2001/enginehtml take a good look and see what you think. I think it will asnwer all your ???

It appears that you are inexperienced in the driving and handeling of the car. What you could do here is to take the car out to a stright road with no traffic and dry pavement . start out form a stop like normal in first gear and take the car up to 2000 rpm and level out on the speed and dont shift. Now as you are crusing along do nothing with the clutch just floor the gas and take the engine up to 3000 . Now that you should have felt some power . go ahead and shift . Now if you have the room do the same thing from 2000 only this time take it to 4000 but do it in secound gear , you should be getting the picture. Just make sure you are on dry clean pavement . As for the mileage if you are not shifting at the right speeds and lugging the engine the mileage will be crap, and the enging will be getting loaded up with carbon. Be careful here when doing this test as the car should respond unless it is so loaded up and running bad . How ever this should blow it out and clean things up . I have seen this before with people that are not use to driving a manual shift car, trying to pull hills with a load in the wrong gear . This is good that you are asking these questions because y ou can knock out the lower end of the engine by lugging it. The lower end is the crankshaft and main bearings not to mention blowing holes in the tops of the pistons. Get back to us on this . Gary

POR is a step process , follow the three steps and you are in good shape.

check the compression . did you check it after running and warmed up ?what did the pluggs look like. Are you sure it is oil and not water with soot driping from the tail pipe ?? with the winter cold and dampness it could vary well be moisture that has collected in the exhaust

It sounds to me that you need to ballance the carbs and adjust the mixture. As for the oil in the carbs , there is a line on the dampiner rod that shows the oil level . If you over fill the oil in the carb it will just go into the carb throat and into the fuel mixture and be burned with the fuel, no worries they only hold about 1 tsp full. My '73 tank holds 15 gals it says it on the gage if you look closely in red. When the carbs are in tune and the timing and plugs are all set as well as the valves the engine should be s m o o t h .

you are asking your engine to produce power with out turning any RPM ! what are you thinking , these engines are good strong LITTLE power plants , but they need help . An engine must be turning more than 1500 rpm to create any ammount of power . You need someone to show you what lugging the engine will do and not do. This engine will not make power in secound or third gear under 2000 and will pull it's hart out up to 5000. Drive an automatic and duplicate the shift vs. RPM shifting pattern in your 280 and you will then see what this car can do. Maby you are used to driveing a desel powered car they make power at low rpm. As far as the post on SUs the oil in the damper is 20wt that is what is recommended by the factory and I find it to work the best . 10w30 will in a pinch. You can find 20wt at a cycle shop it is used in the front forks , it is called fork oil by the 20w , as to the level of oil there is a mark on the dampiner , if you put in too much , no worrys it will just flow down into the carb and be burned with the fuel. By the way the dampiner is the little rod with the black plastic cap in the middle of the dome. On the injected ingine If the idle is vasolating between 800 and 1300 look for vacume leaks, to start with.

I use a heavy hammer like a 3 lb single jack , you must be sure the bearing cap on the off side will be able to go into the gap in the bench vice, give the socket or drift a good hard hit , it will come loose and start to move just keep it up untill the cap is out the other side and romove it. Repeat on the othe half. Use the socket to replace the new unit but it should go in much easier since you have cleaned and lubed the opening. :classic:

cayenne pepper in a toaster will evacuate the building!! Then you can pick the TV station you want. A little on top of a light bulb works pritty well also.