beandip

59 , check the linkage , you may find something is binding. Unless there is some crud on the piston and causing it to stick. If this is the case , just remove the dome and carefully lift off the piston . Be careful not to damage the needle, clean the piston and the cylinder it slides into. After reassambily insert your finger and lift the piston and let it drop and it should do so with a clunk when it bottoms , if not you still have dirt holding it back , check to be sure the needle is not bent and rubbing on the jet as it travels in an out. Dont forget to refill the dampers with oil . I use 20w only , but thats me . Gary v12 , you may be experiencing the same thing . The only "cables" that go to the carbs. is the choke cables. the throttle has linkage directly connected to the gas peddle. If you are having choke sticking trouble , it could be caused by the small fuel line that runs from the float bowl to the bottom of the grose jet. They harden with age and cause the jet to stick in its movement up and down as you adjust the choke level and then "turn off" the choke when the engine warms. This causing poor fuel ecomony and poor performance. Some things to look at and things that could vary well cause the things you two are trouble with . Gary:classic:

:classic: Had you been driving the car regularly before taking it into the paint shop? What I am asking here is if the fuel was fresh before the paint. If so I doubt the fuel is the trouble if only 6mo. old . You could have a clogged filter. Now this next possability could be the trouble as I have heard of it several times. Some one could have used your tank as a convient yurnal ,which puts some "water" in the mix. Especially if you dont have good relationship with the workers doing the preping. It does happen! :sick: Other wise having the car painted should have no effect on the running of the engine, the engine was not running when the painting was done so the air intake filters should only slightly effected , like driving down a dusty road at most. A water removal addittive may be good here and also filling the tank to delute any contamination . By the way you may still have the filters at the inlet to the float bowl of the carbs. and it could be clogged . good luck Gary :classic:

Often when you are having this sort of trouble is because the engine at idle is using little fuel. When you increse load and RPM you also increase the need for a greater amnt. of fuel , if the filter or filters are restricted then the engine starves. As was mentioned by others , the coil or capacider could be failing when the engine warms up . I f y ou are still running points, the condenser is the silver cilinder looking thing inside the dist, and it has one wire coming out of the end (like a fire cracker) , cheep to replace and should be every time the points are changed. Are you sure the fuel pump is working properly ? Along this line pull the dipstick and smell the oil and see if has a gas smell or looks thiner than it should. Mechanical fuel pumps can dump fuel into the engine when they fail. They work by the flexing of a rubber diaphram that pumps the fuel , if or when the rubber fails then the fuel can squirt into the timing chain area of the engine , not good. If you are running a electric pump by the tank , check to see if there is a filter in the line before and or after the pump. It will be right next to the tank by the right rear wheel. Good luck with this . Gary:classic:

:classic: You can salvage your old tank or at least add years to its use. POR is one co. but there are others that make a coating for fuel tanks . If POR is not available in ozz , try going to a truck building or truck repair shop. They may be able to help you with this , as they fabrecate fuel tanks all the time from sheetmatel and coat the insides to seal them. It is a paint like stuff that is pored into the filler and sloshed all over the inside and the excess is dumped out let to set , and replace the sender and your good to go . I have had a few built for me years ago when dual and triple tanks were not available for pick up trucks and we needed the long range . The stuff will even seal small pin holes in the welds and is safe. Good luck Gary:classic:

Marvel Mystery oil yes ATF no. Mystery oil used as directed on the can will not hurt a thing . I use it every year to winterize my inboard to treat the cylinders. If you use a good quality oil in the engine and change it regularly and the engine is tuned properly there should me no reason to put any in the crankcase. I change the oil and filter at 3000 miles and use Quaker State 10-30 . I have heard of people using kerosene and oil as a flush , I would never do it .

they are trying to change the emmissions law in calif. to include all cars reguardless of year. Or at least going back to something like 40yrs. your going to need a cat converter on your leaf blower and lawn mower! I am sure glad I moved !

if the engine was a turbo engine it will have dished pistons and vary low compression if a zx motor then a flat top piston and higher compression but still low compression but better than the turbo . take a look here geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.htm

How many miles on the engine? and what is the state of repair. Have a leakdown test done( air pressure is put into the cylinder through the sparkplug hole and then it is measured how it holds th e pressure.) this will tell you what is going on inside the cylinder , weather the rings are worn or valves leaking . If there is need to overhaul the engine , when the cylinders are miked you will see the ammont of wear that has taken place . Many times these engines are so tough that only a hone is used to freshen the chambers and the same pistons can be reused with new rings. The same with the wrist pins and the crank shaft if it is not worn new berrings and your good to go , if the crank shows wear have it ground and then new bearings of the proper size installed and you again are back to new. If all this is going to be done have the block , hot tanked , to clean everything up before reassembly. lf the engine has been cared for properly and has 125k on it , maby it just needs a valve adjustment and a good tune up. Not a lot of information was given here to start with. to answer the question , if you for an example take starter and clean it, replace the brushes , and bushings and reassemble it you have rebuilt the starter. The rest of the starter is untouched but still it can be sold as rebuilt. the same with a transmission intnstall a cluster gear and you have rebuilt the trans . but not overhauled it. I hope this helps gary

Buy some carb cleaner and with the engine running squirt some carb cleaner around the intake manifold where it mates to the head then around the vac hose couplings and so on if there is a vac leak the engine will change rpm when you shoot the leak with the cleaner. Gary:classic:

They only need about a tea spoon full each. There are variables that can change the need of different weights of oil. Recommended by the factory 20w. ATF and Mistery oil I have tried and found to be too thin, in my area because it is to warm here in Ore. and it causes me to set the carbs too rich so I can have a smooth acelleration from the start. I have heard of people trying brake fluid, and things all over the board. At least here in temps from 40 f to 110 f the 20w works the best. You hear of faster throttle responce but what thin oil does is cause the piston and needle to rise quicker and so doing it leans the mixture at first because more air is let in and not more fuel untill the air speed causes the fuel to increase. the thicker oil richens the mixture for that moment and then the fuel mixture is increased as the air increases in volicidy and draws the gas out of the jet . With a carb that has no accelerator pump to squirt an ammount of fuel into the throat when the butterfly is openned to add rich mixture this how it is accomplished. I use fork oil from a cycle shop and have been for a couple of years now and all is good. There is a lot of missunderstanding in this area as how these things work. But this is the stright poop.

a decent floor jack with wheels large enough that will roll over the crud found under a car. ample size jack stands and or ramps to ger the car up off the ground. this is in addition to the things mentioned in privious posts. A tap and die set and good quality drill bits. Decent lights to be able to work and see in the evening. a asortment of vice grips . thats my 2 cts :classic:

:classic: :stupid: what the hell , it's supposed to snow above 1000' tonight , and when you live in the hills and start at 500' well! April !!! O ' Well globel warming or something, I dont seem to have cancer as far as the tests go so far , as of yesterday, and our troups found the young POW and she is alive and are guys are kicking butt. It looks like my Z is finely coming togither , and all seems good in my neighborhood, good lord willing and the creek dont rise , summer is just around the corner. I have alot to be thankful for and I pray our troops are going to be done soon and coming home , and these people will be free to live like humans. I have never experienced it first hand , only through my father and brothers, I spent 22 yrs as a fireman in LA , not even close, but after 20 yrs past I still have night mares, on a weekly basis. I cannot imagin what something like viet nam or iraq is like to cope with. Bless our troops. Lets get this over.

iI have talked with my painter and if I do go for the airdam I will favor the varithane . Thank you everyone.

This is the car that was used in the movie , distruction Z. and was cought in the huge machiene that ate steel and spit out Hondas !! Glad that you have liberated the star. Good job !

What are the pros and cons of the different materials ? I am seriously thinking of a air dam for my 240 and they come in fiberglasss and urethane as most every one knows. Price is not the issue here . I have heard that the urethane are flexable but do flex to the point that they are not effective is this so ? If they flex to this point is it difficult to keep the paint from cracking? What I specificly am looking at is Motor Sports 50- 1402 and 1411 thanks for your input . I am not looking as a racer but as a driver that would like the stability improvement for the ocassinoal faster travel . Gary PS also to show a ricer the tail lights once in a while.

be sure to look at both sites as there is specific information as to the specific diff that you bought . the finned cover must go according to the info. check it out.

Hard to tell with the info supplied. I have a friend that is running triple mikunis and lost his pump. I told him to find a pump from a rx-7 , one that is carbed and NOT injected, I found mine on a '79 for $15.00 at a local boneyard. In any case he found that he had better performance than he had before with this "new" pump. my 2cts

are you running a electric pump or just the mechanical pump? Have you been working on the engine previously to this ? How about the filters at the inlet of the carbs. ? Could also be the coil heating up and failing , but it think first fuel.

I truly am sorry , really , but I think that you are in sticker shock here. Yes there is a vary slim possability that you will find the "GOLDEN " Bee Bee for not much money . Those stories have gone on for as long as I have been involved in cars , which most likely longer than you are alive. I know where you are coming from believe me . I know you are in love with these cars as I am and if you are not driving one right know , and enjoying the experience , well , life is really short and there are no do overs . Where else can you buy a classic sports car that stands out from the pack and has the performance that they have for under 10K , reguardless of make. To find a car like you say you want for what you are looking to spend , man I really think you need to reevalueate, and I really don't mean this as a critissem I dont . If I find such a find and am not in a position to buy it my self I will for sure pass on the info. I mean this as a friend. Gary

do you have the 20th anaversary issue of Motor Sports , the one that is all in yellow on the cover. There is a profile of a 240 with turbine wheels . If yours look like those I am interested.Thanks gary:classic:

do you know of the web site geocities there is a complete rundown on the swap with pictures . I will find the web address and post it for you . what are you running that needs a locked diff. ?? :classic: Ok I am back here are two address check them both. geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.htm and this is the secound geocities.com 593/diffswap/diffswap.htm I think you will find these two sites to be vary informative. Gary:classic:

:classic: The best source I know of is ztherapy.com What wt. oil are you using ? Here in the US 20wt is difficult to find . I use 20w becaue I have found it works the best in my car, and it is what was recommended by the factory. I have tried all sorts of different oils and the 20w is what I use. I found 20w at the motor cycle shop and it is used in the front forks. Here it is called fork oil. good luck:classic:

Give charlie osborne a e- mail and see if he has what you need. I am ordering a set of floor pans for my 240 Monday. :classic: Zedd Findings carry a lot of stuff not just floor pans. datsunzparts.com