beandip

AND THERE IS NO CURE! Just a word of worning , if you dont own one dont drive one because you will be infected like the rest of us ! Worse than SARS:classic:

Good thoughts it all makes sence. And I agree. What the hell am I going to do with my inbord v-8 ?? The best I can I guess. :classic:

:classic: I just bought some , came highly recommended to me by escanlon , however he said that to get the best results to be sure to get SEM cleaner . From what he said it is secound to none. The paint store was out of it when I was in there so I cant give you any numbers. They have vinyl prep , plastic prep . There is also a flexable bonding clear, I don't know about this stuff. Like anything else prep is the key. My 2c:classic:

we have by count more brewerys in Portland than any one city in germany. Just a little factoid I just read. there is a chain of pubs owned by the Mac Minamun brothers that are truly great. They are all micro-brues .. If you like Sam A . you will love thereTermenater , Is's alot like Ginnes only not creamy. :love: If you make it up this way we can make a tour.

I have been away and just saw the posts. great that you are doing well and will completely recover. As far as the loss of the 240 , you will find another. But there will never be another you. Keep us in your thoughts and I hope to see your posts here right allong. Good to have you back . Gary

hell I can buy a new one for $60.00 why should I buy anything that is junk. ??

I have a '73 and need a brake drum one ore if you dont want to brake up a set I will take two. Aluminum only. I only want units that measure up so dont bother if they are not turnable . Gary:classic:

I bought my colur-tune from r.d.enterprises www.rdent.com ray had the best prices. I bought the uni-sun to ballance them at the local parts store , go to the performance section. Edelbrock made mine. $25.00 . the uni-sun is a must the colur-tune you can do with out.It is a good tool and one you will use, but if cash is tight you can do without it , it just saves time . The reason that the adjustment biker was talking about was so different is that most likely the throttle shafts are leaking air due to ware either that or a vacume leak. :classic:

the highest hardness you can fine there is a lot of stress you can use regular washers . If you get standard bolts they can snap off. Dont skimp. :classic: I looked for my receipt but couldent come up with it. Sorry

:cross-eye scanlon after you broke the cable and went through all the trouble to remove hood why did you close the damn thing without attaching a new cable and you said your self you did this twice??? :stupid: bambikiller you dont need to have the cable hanging down under the car , just put the loop thru the dash where you can reach it from the drivers side ( needs to be on that side so the pull is from the correct direction) that is if you are driving a left hand drive car.:classic:

Drain the oil and change the filter , after y ou get her started and drive about 500 miles do it again. Before starting pull the pluggs and squirt about a teasoon full of marvel Mistery oil in the cylinders and let set for overnight if you can , withe the pluggs out and the oil changed to fresh spin the engine about 10 revolutions , let the starter cool and repeat this two more times. Put in the pluggs and start the engine and watch the oil pressure gague. As for the oil in the carbs I use 20w oil I get from the cycle shop. As soon as you can replace the carbs with round top SUs. You need to get a uni-sun to ballance the carbs . It measures the air flow on each one so they can be in ballance , this is a must. $25. 00 at the parts store , speed shop , section or a cycle shop. You can pour in some engine oil to top off the carbs just add about a tea spoon full to each one. Good Luck Gary

Is this on a manual trans. ? I have never heard of one slipping . How can this be If the gears are engaged I dont see how that could hapen ? the only thing that can slip is the clutch. This is a learning experience. Check the help forum I have a Brake problem I need help for. Gary

warm up the engine first, it helps to dry things out . The wd-40 is right on the mark. I use gunk and or Simple Green . Ijust bought a degreaser at Costco that really seams to do the job and smells better than the others. what ever you do keep the module dry if y ou can. Another thing that works good is to connect the hose to the drain on the water heater , that is if it is in the garage , the hot water really helps to melt the grease. It's good to drain the water heater this way , it helps remove the sediment at the bottom of the tank. :classic:

It's because of my love of Mexican food. I can have mexican food every day of the week .

I worked for Chevy in '59 at the Van Nuys plant. their was a whole area set aside for body work one for mechanical repair and so on. I worked at the end of the line , right before the gas went in and the engines were started. No start , they were shoved off to the mechanical side body work needed, sent to a parking area to be delt with later. Some times it takes longer for your car when they are dented or damaged. The maker weather it is a Chev. or Lex. is repaired as quickly and as cheeply as can be , sorry but that is the facts. There are a lot of new cars form the factory that have lots of bondo. In '60 I worked at a body shop and we got 6 brand new pontiacs in that were on a transport that overturned and dealer dident want them at there shop. Some were heavely damaged , all were repaired in our shop two with bent frames. I personally drove the repaired cars to the dealer when they were finished. Be careful when you buy a "demo" car.

My Z was orange from the factory and I like the color but I want something a little more flashy . I do like the looks of pearl with or metalic. I saw a great looking Blue that looked almost black on a 03 mitsrbishi. That one has me wondering I also saw a Yellow that is from Fearrari # 355 awsom ! and the orange is 918 . I think that either color with a little pearl or gold metalic would look spectacular. I seem to favor the lighter colors , sportier I think . My 2cts GaryROFL

I just cut out the pan on the passanger side and removed the seat supports also . that was harder than the pan. I cut the spot welds and ground the extra metal off later. The car is a rolling shell with the engine and trans out. I did reinstall the trans support to maintain the tunnel shape when fitting in the Zed Findings floor. I screwed in the floor and bent the floor pan to fit. I had good help in fitting things. The fit is close as we could make it so the welder just needs to do his thing. Tomarrow I will remove the screws and the pan , trim the little extea old floor and grind away the rust and paint so there is clean metal for the welder to work with. then I will reinstall the pan . I talked with my welder and he is enthoused with the project , and the way that I have gotten it ready . I did all my cutting with a saws all and it went easy except to save the seat supports , that was time consuming. I will post pictures as soon as they are developed. No digital camera. I found the pans from Zedd to be first rate. If I can help in any way let me know . Gary to answer the queston of stability. If you screw in the new pan to the rail an tunnel and so forth it should be plenty strong for a rolling shell . Install the trans support . I am going to trailer the Z about 35miles to the welder's house and I see no problem.

:classic: what is Shasta and when is it . I should have the painted car part done by July and driveable from the Portland area. I havent heard about Shasta , maybe Scanlon and I can convoy Mike also If the Jedi is ready. Depends on the timing. :classic:

I have floor pans that I bought from Zedd findings, Charley Osborne makes a good product . I replaced the passanger side yesterday . I did the cutting and Scanlon did the pounding and fitting of the pan in prep for welding. I think the pans are first rate. I took pics of the floors before and after I cut out the rusted area but the before dosent show all the damage clearly and the ones with the installed pan havent been develouped , sorry I dont have digital. If you are wondering if the pans are as advertised they are ! They need to be fitted in place and some cutting and forming is necessary . I cut out the old with a sawsall with a metal cutting blade. I recommend not cutting the floor out untill you have the pans in hand. the hardest part was removing the seat supports and saving them for reinstall. I used a spotweld cutter that I bought at the local auto parts store. the floors extend aprox 21/2" up the tranny tunnel and up the rocker side to the seam of the old floor , from the seam of the old floor at the front where it slopes up to about 3" up the back slope that is behind the seats. I bought the rubber pluggs also. I plan to replace only the pass. side and repair the driver's side as there were only a few holes to patch . all went so well on the pass. side I may just do it also. If y ou want some mor info send a e-mail

If you are going to be doing a cam swap, besure to replace the rockers with Nissan rockers , they will last and not eat the cam. I would recommend having the head surfaced and the valves ground and new stem seals and new lashpads all done at the shop so they will set it up properly. It might cost you a few bucks but if more that likely it will save you from spending more having it done any way when not done properly the first time. Another thing to keep low end torque keep the piping at 21/4 and SMALLER. The larger exhaust will rob low end and will perform at the top end. If you want to increase the off the line responce , change the diff gear ratio to 390 to1 . Check out geocities.com/2001/enginehtml

the back fire in the exhaust is due to a rich mixture of fuel coming in contact with the hot exhaust systime , it can blow the muffler clear off the car , or destroy the muffler as mike said his buldged his. I wouldent think it would be prevelent with SUs just because of the way they work, that is if they are tuned properly. It normaly would occure when coming down in RPM like down a hill or when down shifting going into a corner, slight rapping does no harm .

When you pull the pluggs remove the valve cover at the same time . Do this after changing the oil. I use Marvel Mistory oil but engine oil will work, squirt about a tsp. full in each plugg hole let set for a few mins. . Now with the plugs out and the valve cover off manually oil the cam and rockers, then spin the engine with the starter. Give it about five revolutions let it sit for one or two mins. , cool off starter , then spin the engine again you might oil the cam again , spin once more. I would repete untill you see that oil is being pumped to the cam. Install the valve couver !Or you will paint the walls with oil. Put in the pluggs and start the engine . Keep the engine running at 1500 to 1800 or so while it is warming to keep the oil pressure up, and you are good to go. If the old oil was real dirty when you changed it I would change the new oil and filter at 500 miles , and at 3000 there after. use good oil such as GTX or Quaker State I use 10W40 Quaker.

If you decide to learn how to adjust them E-mail me and I can walk you through the procedure. There is a tape available still I believe on this and other things at Z Therapy . They are the best source .:classic:

Take a look at the connections at the coil and the resister actually look for a proper ground form the engine to body. Do check the points and if they are pitted replace them and the condencer. I would pull the plugs and see if they are burned , most likely they are oil soaked and or fouled, clean them or replace. :classic:

:tapemouth If the car is a manual 10 deg at 700 RPM and if a automatic the same but a 800 if y ou are in california retarded at 7 at 700 . Look on e-bay and find a manual wou will need it for other repairs .