beandip

I am NOT BUILDING A THEME BIKE OR ANYTHING . IT'S A 240 Z . If I dinen't like the Z and the way it looks and drives I would have a HONDA 2000

I would send a PM directly to phred . He works on heads daily . Pose the question to him and since he does these repairs , he is the guy. Gary

you can reach Bruce at ztherapy.com Have you checked for vacume leaks? also the vacume advance , have you tested it ? To check for vacume leaks , with the engine running at idle spray some carb cleaner where you suspect a leak and if the engine changes RPM you found it. Try removing the vacume line to the brake booster and caping the fitting. The extensive list you provided cover about everything I can think of . What did you use to clean the windshild ? Sorry couldent reZest. I doubt the floats are a problem , especially at idle , if there is any fuel in there at all. As for the choke sticking did you use the proper fuel line , if the line is stiff it will bind the choke and it will stick resulting in a vary rich mixture. But this wont account for the lack of RPM . I don't remember you saying what you set the timing , 10 BTDC ? NGK plugs ? Run a ground wire from the engine to the body or frame. keep us posted on this . Gary Bruce's phone 503-587-9800

I presume that you have checked the oil for coolent and the coolent for oil. Have you pulled the valve cover and checked the rocker arm and lash pad on # 1 ? If you have done these things , is the engine smoking more than usual? I am thinking head gasket, water and oil question, valve train or burned valve or something holding a valve from sealing. Did the rough idle happen all of a sudden or has it been slowly coming on ? If the engine is smoking it could be a burned piston , or a broken ring. In any event , it looks like the head will need to come off.

Bambi hit it . I have a late'73 8/73 and it has the factory mounts for a rear swaybar. If you have a early '74 look at the bar you have if it is has not been removed , and you will see that it has a bend in it so that it will clear the diff. all the others are stright and will not fit using the stock mounts. I dont remember what the cut off date was for this set up , for the 260. If the bar is gone just sight down the line from one mount to the other and see if a stright bar would clear . The stright one is the later design like on the 280s The end links are all the same.

I agree with posts with Inf & Shevets, but some people are there own downfall , an learn the hard way. Then wonder why .

You see , this is a web site for exchange of information on the classic Z cars . It is NOT ROMPER ROOM SCHOOL. Tough crowd you bet . Stupid no. Just don't treat us like we are stupid and we will be there when you need help. As for a good manual to watch out for Clymer is the publisher and the 1970-1979 shop manual . The best is the nissan shop manual . The clymer on ebay goes for under $10.00 the Nissan four times that . Gary :disappoin

Just in case you don't know , take a picture of the area of the battery and below , the fender area to the rear of the front tires and infront of the doors and the area just in front of the rear tires. Open the hatch and shoot pics of the sill of the hatch , each end. Lift the carpet in the footwell and show the floor pan , both driver and passanger side . All these should be close up pictures showing detail. Pictures of the overall condition of the car , like a view of the front looking down the drivers side and the same looking down the passanger side. One more of the rear of the car showing both tail lights . Gary

DON'T DIGNIFY THE STUPID COMMENT WITH A ANSWER. I just took a look in my Clymer manual and it gives a discription of the drain and fill plugs and the location , it also states that full is 1/4'' BELOW the level of the fill plug. 90W gear oil with a API GL-4 API GL-5 for the diff.

THIS THREAD IS AN OLD THREAD

For overall driveability performance , injection. With out a doubt. For ease of maintainence SUs , HP is about the same between the two. The computer does the thinking for you on cold starts and change of altitude . Injection is much more complicated by a long shot. My 2 cts. I have a 280 flat top engine running SUs. In my 240Z .

When doing a rebuild on a engine , much depends on the condition it is in to start with. You will most likely need to have the head gone through , the valves ground and or replaced if necessary . New valve seals , likely new springs and lash pads possably new rocker arms and cam. The head resurfaced or milled dipending on what you intend for the car performance wise. The block should be disassembled and hot tanked . The cylinders either bored or honed . That depends on the condition again . If bored then new pistons . In any event new rings , and if the pistons are good and the cylinder was only honed they can be reused . The rods and crank shaft shold be tested for cracks , magnafluxed , possability new wrist pins. New timing chain and tensioner and gear . Possibly a new oil pump and water pump. Resurface the flywheel and new clutch and pressure plate . Throw out bearing and all new gaskets and seals. If the crankshaft is good it should be turned or polished. New inserts , rod and crank bearings, new head bolts and possably rod cap and crankshaft bolts. I am shure I am forgetting something but this is most of it.

Depends on where you live and the availability of a mechanic that knows Webbers. Now days finding some one that knows carbs at all is not as easy as it used to be. The average cost around where I live is about $50.00 an hour. I cant help you with Webbers but there are a few members that have them. The rest of a tune up is a simple matter. Do you have a shop manual ? If not you need one and a uni-sun to ballance the carbs .

The transvers link is what you are refering to. You should have the curved one unless you have a '70 or early '71 240. There is a member that makes a vary cool transvers link that will allow you to use the finned cover on the lsd. He has a hi-bred Z. Infact he is the one that came up with the spindle pin remover tool that I have to loan to members. It's been so long , I cant remember his name . I will see If I can come up with it . From what I have read on using the lsd is that you need to change the finned cover for a standard stile. I don't know why as my R-200 is not a LSD. If in fact you need a transverse link that is curved like the one Bambi's picture shows . I have one , you pay the postage and it is yours. I ended up with an extra one. Just send me a PM Gary

You still need to be careful when rolling it around with a engine hanging on it. Especially when you are turning . Some times the casters under load find it hard to turn and can stick and if you continue to push to the side you can tip it over . the same if you have cracks in the concrete floor. Phred makes a adapter that mounts to the side of the block insted of on the bellhousing. I dont own one but they are sure nice since it leaves both ends free and accessable. These inline engines do make the stand less stable .

There was a post about 5 speed trannys , the early versions I think that talked about shifting problems and poping out of gear . Caused from a loose nut inside the trans , it seems that they work loose . If I remember correctly they just needed to be tightened and staked in place or some thing like that. I don't have a 5 speed my self but remember reading the information . It was on the list. list@240z.org Have a try and see if you get a reply Gary

Be sure to use hardened steel bolts. I used 9.5 hardness and I have the same stand. the bolts are 10mm X 1.5 and I used 3 1/2'' long with washers so the bolts wont bottom out in the block. A good cleanup of the stain on the floor is Gunk Engine Brite Foam , used to clean engines . just spray it on and scrub with a broom if you want , then hose it off. Cleans the dropings on the drive way and around the Bar B Q as well . Gary

Since no one has posted here to help I can offer a suggestion. I dont know of he hole you are speaking of ,but did you check the fluid level in the tranny . If over filled they can do this . Same with the Diff. Only it has a vent on it's top. Perhaps some one her that is a tranny person can answer your specific question. Gary

first off , have you done a compression or leak down test ? If the engine has reasnonable compression , and it has been setting for a few years , drive it some before you start tairing into it. Then do another compression check , look at the oil and the coolent and see if the oil is water free. Do you know how to adjust the valves ? If new to this , the first time do it on a cold engine. If you are going to error do it on the loose side not tight. And do the valve adjust before tearing into the engine and doing the secound compression check. Now if the compression shows all within 10% each other drive it and enjoy the ride . If you have one cylinder that is way down , put some oil , a teaspoon full , and test that one again and see if there is a change and how much. If the compression comes up a lot , the problem is a valve, By the way how many miles on this engine ? It may just be tired and needing a rebuild. Or if you are lucky a valve job. If the engine clears up after driving it a stuck ring . So , the best to you . Gary this is my 2cts

advise to live by Gary

The pressure switch is the way to go , in my openion. Also install a switch to kill the pump as a security measure.

I can use a license plate light also. My PO installed to large of bulbs in mine and it is worped Gary

sence when does the government care what it costs you to keep track of something. As for computing the charges that will be done each time you fuel up.

welcome to the group of us Z nuts. You are now infected with the Z virus and there is no cure. Sounds like you are doing things right and on the right track. All the best, Gary

Send phred a PM the one he built is great and ask him about the side plate adapter to mount the engine on the side.