zbane

I was just putzing about and found this place by means of a Datsun rally site-check it out- http://www.ninfiniti.com/index.asp located in SoCal.

Would (could) the caliper "reset" itself after full compression (to come to a stop) and act normally thereafter? I am planning on getting a brake job, I'd been hearing the warning 'chirps' that occur when pads are getting thin for a couple days.

Hello everyone! I had the sh*t scared out of me the other day as I was driving home. Here is what happened. Driving down the curvy mountainside road about 30mph, my car started vibrating (almost like when you are approaching a toll booth or hit a "sleeping policeman" on the side of the interstate, or a flat tire). Now, there are no places to pull over on the twisty 2 lane road, so I try to slow down, but the car doesn't respond quickly. I am trying to stear, but the wheel feels heavy (not like a car without power steering) and sluggish. I let the go of the wheel once I hit a straight section to see what happens (normally the car would straighten out by itself, right?) but it doesn't. It just keeps on turning, so I straighten out. All the while, the car is vibrating, and I am very nervous. After about 45 seconds of this (maybe longer), I come across a driveway on the side of the road. I pull over and turn of the car. I am thinking that perhaps it's a flat tire (felt and sounded like one), if that were the case, I've got fix-a-flat. The tires are all fine, but I smelled hot brake smell from the front right tire. Confused and very worried, I got back in the car and continued with great trepidation on my way home, about 6 more miles. No noise, no vibration, the steering still felt a little heavy/slushy/lazy, and wouldn't return to center with the gusto of other times (although, now it would, just a bit slow) If a brake caliper where to stick in the out position, even partially, do you think it would cause symptoms like I experienced, or do you think it's more likely something with the power steering? The car is sitting in the drive, and I am forced to drive the Mitsubishi. Any suggestions will be appreciated. I'm not terribly well equipped to check stuff, but I will do my best, if anyone has suggestions. I do apologize for the rambling nature of the post.

Van, what color is your dash? If I remember correctly (and I probably don't), there where only three options- 1. brown dash, tan interior, brownish carpet 2. dark (navy) blue dash, blue interior 3. red dash, red interior. I think things where different for the GL models, they had leather seats, and some other stuff, so I may be completely off base.

Start looking through the classifieds, junkyards, behind shady car dealerships (really, I'm not kidding), e-bay, the classified section on this forum, the afforementioned Z barn and Black dragon (different thread), friends who live in other cities (again, not kidding), etc.

These are the stickers that show paint code (between radiator & air filter area) production plate 1 (left hand side firewall, when looking from the nose) production plate 2 (door jamb) There is also a number stamped into the firewall, just to the right of the production plate-I don't have a shot of it. While you are on that side of the car, turn 90 degrees and face the engine. On the back half of the engine side (between cylinders 6 and 3) there is a number stamped on the engine. It will probably be hard to find/see due to grime and wires being in the way, but poke around and you'll find it. What it's for, I really don't know (I'm sure someone here does, though-so feel free to chime in here!), but it's nice to know where it is. There is also a stamp somewhere on the cylinder head-this you should find, since different years/models had different heads- this would be good to know if you decide to order engine internals. I would suggest looking around for a factory service manual-it will be your friend.

What would you think about using the tinted sugar scoop covers? The clear ones look nice and all-the headlights are almost like diamonds sparkling in the sun, but it doesn't fit with the theme (in my eyes). Or maybe some tasteful driving/fog lamps in the airdam would add balance to the clear headlights. Either way, the car is Beautiful as is, and any suggestion given shoud be tempered with the fact that we are looking at a photo, not the real deal.

the warm, happy feeling I get whenever I sit in the driver seat! Crappy day at work? Just sit down and relax in the Datsun Induced Bliss (and hope it's not just the exhaust fumes).

Things to add to my S30- Since I don't have one, I would like to add THE ENTIRE CAR! :stupid: Seriously, though, things I would like to add/have regardless of model-hmm... 1. Better, beefier brakes. 2. solid exhaust system (those fumes...) 3. EFI system that isn't so cantankerous. 4. Self tinting windows (its been done, and not just on KITT!) 5. Rock solid rails. 6. Roll cage (just to make other drivers nervousLOL ) If I was made of cash... All of the above, plus 1. A good rolling chassis and all affiliated parts so that I could make a semi-sleeper. 2. RB26DETT, suspension and drivetrain capable of handling said engine. Of course, if I went the made of cash route, I'd end up with two Z's (nothing wrong with that)

You were thinking I WANT TO DRIVE MY CAR! My suggestion, and that is all it is, would be to split the difference. Go with the proper torquing order from your book. Unscrew, flip and tighten to appropriate torque in the order the book says. That way everything stays tight, no chance of messing up the gasket... Like I said, though, that's just a suggestion, but I hope it makes sense.

Some cars lose their character when they are painted black; fortunately for us the Z car is not one of them-yours looks as sharp as a razor (although a little weird w/o the front bumper). -Congratulations, and a belated welcome!

Miles, I was thinking along the same lines-If a replacement top could be found of roughly the same dimensions from a parts catalogue (JC whitney, perhaps), it could be adapted to the "new" car. 240K...-what is the distance from the B to C pillar, and the width from corner to corner? Surely there is something close in size. At least you have a working template for the time being.

That's too bad that the trip fell through. Send me a PM when the trip is back on, it would be nice to meet another member.

Waynesville to Brevard on hwy 276-straight through the national forest as well. It's only about 45 miles, but takes about two hours (if I remember right) There's a section between Brevard and the Greenville/Spartanburg area that's a blast-the whole drive is twisty, and relegates you to driving in first or second gear. Your arms and legs get so tired, but the time is well spent. I stumbled on it by accident, therefore I don't remember the route number. Will-did you already come up here?

Just saw "Grand Prix" on TCM (Turner Classic Movies, for those of you outside the US)-It really is just a movie about racing with a little drama thrown in, very well done, indeed. They even showed a little documentary on the making of, I hope it's included on the DVD. If youv'e not got it, find it-you will not be disappointed. The film is top notch filming, great acting ,good story, and INCREDIBLE locations, cars and racing.

There are other lesser used roads around that have not recieved any coverage. Asking if it's worth it is like asking if it's worth driving to Carmel from SF solely for 17 Mile Drive when Highway One will take you to Big Sur. Point being-different strokes for different folks. I imagine some drive it simply to say "I drove the Dragon," and that's fine, but there are better byroads available, like the Great Smokey Mountain Parkway.

Red_dog, where are you located? I'm about an hour away from the dragon, myself. As to the assertation that the police don't care...not from what I understand. Police presence has risen over the last few years due to increased fatalities on the road. The increase has come about because this stretch of road has recieved national coverage as an "enthusiast's road" on certain SPEED related channels. Before this coverage, the cops didn't really care about speeding, because the road wasn't used very much, and if you paid attention to traffic patterns, you could figure out the best time to drive and avoid the semi trailers. Here's a link to a ZdayZ youtube thing. It only shows mostly 350's, and that is not the coolest, but what you need to watch for happens about 13 seconds into it. I see this happen most every day as I drive 30 miles from Cashiers to Sylva on Hwy 107. Rock face on one side, drop off on the other. Here's a bit I pasted from the dragon website regarding cops- Watch for periodic show of force by Tennessee Highway Patrol on the Dragon. Always take it easy along the river on US 129 as you approach the Dragon. Blount County SO will usually have a car shooting radar along here. There will be increased enforcement on western North Carolina roads this summer by NCHP. Watch for radar on the Cherohala and major 4-lanes such as US74/19 and NC28. Also expect to see NC Motorcycle Troopers on weekends in the area on a limited basis. We have seen Blount Co Sheriff cars on the Dragon at various times. Be aware that they will issue tickets for unreasonable speeds and unsafe riding. http://www.tailofthedragon.com/ The roads here are GREAT to drive quickly, and that is where the Z car truly excells. These are not roads for flat out speed, they require finesse, agililty and forethought. As more people race on them, more police will patrol. This ruins it for EVERYONE else, so if you want to race...go to a track. www.roadatlanta.com/ www.virclub.com/ I'm not trying to come down on you, just trying to keep the police presence low, keep you alive, and keep your Z in one peice and keep it so we can enjoy the drive (when there aren't motorhomes in the way). Best,

It's always nice to add another person to the group, even nicer when that person is from a different continent. That just shows that love for the Z car is universal. At least there is one thing that people from different races, countries, and cultures can gather around in (relative) harmony. Welcome

Steve, my 79 zx has some bubbling in the windshield area, almost dead center on the bottom edge. It's not much, but is a concern. From the parts magazine I've got (Black Dragon), I haven't seen any replacement roof panels, so either it's a treat or cut and weld operation. Good Luck.

"David Box size for shipping a single G-Nose is 185 x 70 x 50cm. Cost would be approx. £275 (GB pounds). There is a chance that we could get two sets into this box. At worst, two would go into our next size box at 185 x 80 x 50cm which would cost approx. £310 (GB pounds). Three units would go into the next size box at 200 x 100 x 50cm for approx. £425 (GB pounds). Regards, Mike at MJP"

"David As far as I am aware, only ourselves and one other UK company have access to the moulds for this kit. The problem would be shipping to USA - fibreglass is charged on volume, not weight and shipping cost would probable exceed th ecost of the unit. The price of the two piece G-Nose front end is currently 302.50 GB pounds - equivalent to approx. $550 (US dollars) at current exchange rate. Regards, Mike at MJP" I've asked the approx. size of the box, and the possibility of bulk shipping. I am hoping that if several of us want this unit, we can have them sent together. I have my fingers crossed, but considering it's fiberglass, I don't expect a shipping break.

Check the other thread, I think I found the place in England.

Found this website, I've emailed them about the g-nose, as I am interested too. I'll post whatever info they provide. "Other kits available : eg. G-nose conversion, Kaminari style front and rear valence." http://www.mjpauto.com/280zx.html I searched the galleries at the Z club (UK) and found the original shot of the g nose in question, along with some other beauties. http://www.zclub.net/gallery/showgallery.php?si=g+nose&limit=