aldersonr

There was this cat who loved to get drunk, who went to the bar on the other side of the tracks. He stayed all night long and got so wasted he could barely stand up, much less walk. The cat starts to stumble on home. As the cat comes to the train tracks, he doesn't notice a train coming down the tracks. As he started to cross the tracks, the train zoomed by, and cut off his tail. The cat turned it's head to see the damage, got his head stuck into the side of a speeding box car, and is instantly decapitated. The moral of the story — don't lose your head over a piece of tail!

Quite blurry, but DEFINATELY true! I rue the day that stupidity was rewarded.

That's what I was thinking so I'm gonna take off the back one again and see

I finally got the Z running without stalling!!! Now comes the bad news... The back carb is leaking out of some tube pointed towards the air cleaner. WTF could cause this?

Welcome. I have the same situation myself except mine has 80,000 and set up for 12 years, so share what you learn and I'll do the same.:bandit:

For a road course car a manual for control, but for a drag car an automatic for consistency.

The rods don't have anything to do with the displacement. It's only determined by the crank throw and the diameter of the piston bore. As for the length of the rods, they will change your compression ratios and rod angularity which affects torque output. Higher compression and longer rods will improve as the opposite will, of course, hurt. Sounds like you have a pretty decent engine in a very light car, have fun!

Lance is right, but be careful about buying another block. You may end up with one worse than yours.

I just ran into that one myself, but since mine had been sitting for 12 years I replaced EVERYTHING. As for your situation you may trying spraying the e-brake cable and linkage by the back wheel with a lubricant and tapping on it with a hammer. This has worked on other cars I've dealt with in the past, no promises though. As for the brakes they're a pretty simple setup. Just leave one side together and use it as reference. Also if you connect the bottom spring to the pads before putting them on it saves a lot of hassle. Good luck! -Robert

SUCCESS! After soaking over night in berrymans' and WD-40 I was finally able to pry them out with a little persuasion from a pair of wire cutters (very carefully). It was the pin/rod whatever that held the floats in. Thanks for all your help and suggestions. As soon as I get the other one rebuilt, hopefully with less hassle since I know what I'm doing now, I'll finish getting the interior back in and perhaps another Z will be roaming the streets again!!!

Yeah, any machine shop should be able to do that.

Oh and they're $18 each U.S.

The part # is: 96-293

I got mine through Autozone. It came with all new seals and a new float switch (don't know the tech term). However it didn't have any of the springs or hardware but you shouldn't need those. Just be prepared to do ALOT of cleaning. I definately suggest a lot of spray Berrymans and the gallon jug for soaking! One of the pistons was completely seized so that one took some work . Hopefully it was worth it, not like it's gonna hurt being unseized!

Unfortunately they are holed and I had to rebuild it any way so I may as well do it right. The car sat in a garage for a little over 12 years so most of the seals have semi welded to the metal. It's taken quite a bit of berrymans but they're finally clean and ready to be rebuilt if it wasn't for the bars being stuck. I don't have a problem with these carbs at all since they've been submerged and still ran well. And yes, I've purchased everything I believe I need to do a complete rebuild. I look forward to your response, thank you. -Robert

I'm having trouble replacing the floats on a 260Z. I can't seem to get the bar that each one attaches to out of the housing. If anyone has any Ideas please let me know. And no, unfortunately I can't switch to the round tops just yet thx.

The question is still cost, unfortunately. This is just a temp fix until I can start pumping the money into it that it deserves. Thank you much for your help! -Robert

Sorry Arne, I don't have a camera that can get decent detailed photos. Atleast not enough to see anything.

Yeah I know, but budget and parents(the owners) won't let me stray far from stock so I'm working with what I got.

I just got the carb rebuild kit for my 260Z with new floats. Unfortunately I can't figure out how to get the old floats out. They're the original flat tops that have a bar that holds them in. after removing the screw covering one side I found that it was sunk in to far to get any pliers in to reach it and I can't really pry it out. Has anyone done these yet? I can't find anything in the archives.

Personally unless you're planning on building the SBC to rev over 6500 RPM I would stick with a supercharger. They've gotten quite efficient and work better in lower RPM with no lag time. However if you're dead set on using turbos I would give Greddy or Garrett turbos a call. They're tech departments can gice you a good idea based on RPM, compression ratios, when you you want it to hit full boost, etc. Also if you're using this setup for racing you can eliminate turbo lag by installing a nitrous setup into the exhaust. Make sure you leave room for the exhaust gas to heat up the nitrous enough for it to expand(usuaully about 12-16 inches) This also prevents damage to your engine from the nitrous since it never enters the combustion chamber. Good luck in the quest for power!:bandit:

Here is a link to one: http://cgi.ebay.com/DELRIN-2-3-4-X-24-White-Round-Stock-Acetal-plastic_W0QQitemZ140000487060QQcategoryZ61794QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

If you're looking for the best performance with the least maintenance I would suggest Delrin bushings. It's not widely used so finding premade bushings may be difficult for older cars but it provides a fairly smooth ride without the deflection of rubber and doesn't require grease like the urethane. Bar stock can be found on Ebay and any machine shop with a lathe can mill it within specs!

I ran into the same problem with my 260Z. As a fix and theft detterent I reran a wire with a cutoff switch on the positive side. Just make sure you use the right amp fuse and tap into a source that only has power with the key on in case you forget to turn it off!

That's probably what I'll end up doing. I was taught to do things right the first time, it just seems like a daunting tasks. But how will you learn if you don't try! After all most of the wiring I have gone through was aftermarket radio and CB that was very sub par which mat be causing some of the problems as well. Just another step in restoration!