Everything posted by MDyer
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Why Toyota Four Runner Brakes?
What are the benefits of the 4-Runner brakes? Lot's of people have used them, but are they using them primarily for racing?, availability of parts?, safer?
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Found a 73 240... maybe for the right price?
Firstly, the body is trash... not even a resto candidate. What I like, that I might use: -perfect condition bonnet (ventless, unlike my 77) -4 excellent condition "BBS" style wheels, Black w/ Aluminum "rings(?)" -nice condition Corsa type steering wheel -windshield is perfect (mine has rock chip, and my rubber seal is hard and shiny) .... AND, the shifter knob tells of 5-speed. If so, I'd love to have that 5th gear (provided the tranny is in good shape:ermm: ) The car appears to not have ran in many months/few years. I'm waiting to hear back from the guy if it's still for sale. QUESTION: Did 73's come w/ 5 speed?
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tranny swap
If not, I'd suggest focusing on the rest of the car first (ie, body, engine, etc.). Had an automatic in the 74 260, and it was a nice transmission (smooth shifting and never a problem). If the tranny is in good shape, spend the bucks on everything else (and enjoy not shifting....)
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Removing dash?
I've been putting off this task for far too long. Apparently, not as daunting a task as I originally thought.:classic:
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Crack Between Rear Pillar and Roof
I don't think it's in bad shape. Given the hairline nature of it, I think if rust exists, it would be readily visible. I'll take a look. Don't take this the wrong way, but after looking at your gallery, I'm sure that I'm starting with a car that APPEARS to be in much better structural shape.... That said, it's still worth a look!
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Crack Between Rear Pillar and Roof
I've spot sanded all over the car, and the same layers exist everywhere. I think it's some type of heavy primer (?).
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Crack Between Rear Pillar and Roof
I've noticed on several Z's that there exists a hairline crack at the point where the rear pillar(?) meets the roof. Mine included. Is this just a weak point in the structure? Is it evidence of hard driving, where the body flexes? I'm just going to re-weld; unless that's a bad idea. Attached is pic of mine.
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Victoria British Steel Panels?
Called VicBrit, and not much help. If anybody has experience and current catalog, here's my question: Page 25 top illustration: - is #6 just a smaller cut out of #5? or is it an inner skin? -#11 a cutout of #10?
- Dscn0667
- Dscn0670
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Ready for body work
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Early 2+2's
We bought a new 2+2 in the autumn of 74. The dealer described it as a 74-1/2. I guess there were some mid-model year changes that were significant enough to merit the "1/2".
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The Horror
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The Horror
I need to get beyond my zealousness to get started/finished. I just wasn't ready for this type of setback...
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The Horror
Actually, behind the BIG hole, the metal is in good shape (despite the appearance in the pic).
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Does your car have a nick name ???
My 6 yr old son: "The Blue Rocket", or "Rocket" for short:classic: My 9 yr old daughter: simply, "The Z":classic: My 41 yr old wife: "That stupid car":finger: Me? Any of the above; depends what day you ask:stupid:
- The Horror
- The Horror
- The Horror
- The Horror
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The Horror
After starting my body work in earnest, I found rust under "decorative" rocker panel trim. See pix. I think I pretty much whittled it back pretty close to unblemished metal. How much should I cut out? I REALLY don't want to replace entire panels/fenders; would prefer to cut cleanly and weld patches. Looking for advice. ...this sucks.:sick:
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stumped
I bet the private messages are flying right about now...:tapemouth
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Air Dams, Spoilers and Exhaust Fumes
The reasons for the spoiler are more cosmetic and performance... I was just hoping it might help that as well! Thanks for the input and the pic 2many
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Lowering Suspension
Nick: I didn't do anything to shorten the struts. Like XYZ, mine lowered about 1-3/4" XYZ: I have same tire specs. Do you every rub?
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Air Dams, Spoilers and Exhaust Fumes
I haven't started the sealing process (or checking it for that matter) yet. My understanding is that the aerodynamics of the car naturally create a vaccuum, and hence the fumes. Even if the car is sealed up, don't the fumes still come in through a window (if open)? I was hoping that the aerodynamics would change just enough to eliminate the vaccuum... I'll try your advice!