Bonzi Lon

My experience, New carbs (1980) 4 screw front, 3 screw rear, 96 miles on them then the car parked 26 years. Looked in front bowl, after gasket fell apart in multiple pieces, full of varnish. Tried getting rear lid off for 1/2 hour until it was decided surgery was needed. Trimmed enough to get the lid off, full of varnish and gasket parts. Never been in a carb before 2006. Got the video, watched it twice, took both carbs apart, cleaned, reassembled and back on in under 3 hours. Fired right up, minor adjustments like the video showed. Found out the rear 3 screw was best at 2 1/4 turns down, front was 2 1/2 for plug color to match. One other difference in the two styles is the choke cable attachment. The 4 screw uses a 'P' clamp with 2 clamping screws. The 3 screw carb has a single screw clamp attachment and has a steel cable stop swedged to the end of the choke cable. Three weeks ago I changed out the above set for a set of rebuilt polished 4 screw carbs with cad plate attachments. Added a polished euro balcance tube and a polished valve cover. They were synced and set in less than 20 minutes. Light brown plugs. My advise is get the video and either sync tool, these carbs are too easy, just misunderstood. I remember seeing a motion emoticon (on here?) showing a SU carb working, at idle small amount of fuel flowing, choked the nozzle went down and more fuel flowed, at wot the butterfly opened, suction piston went up more fuel flowed. Anyone remember it or have it avaliable? Bonzi Lon

Might try pulling the drain plug, if these trans had a magnetic plug like my 73, anything iron / ferris will stick. Won't detect any brass but if it has a tooth on it you may want to pass on that one. Bonzi Lon

Painter Ray got this about 2 years ago, still going strong. Bonzi Lon

I've only heard good words about this company. Mine will be done there this winter. Bonzi Lon

I used the word 'fragile' as a watchmaker with lots of experience with springs. If not made or tempered properly they can and will fail. Rust also has a huge effect on steel springs making them weaker as time goes on, until failure. So, thinking out loud, maybe they wern't needed (early VIN) as the fuel door had a latch, or sub-standard springs were installed and failed right off the bat, and fell out, the 'welded plate' added to help reduce the loss, better springs, first 2 coils then 3 coils were used and the knob discontinued. Makes you wonder. Bonzi Lon

I find the crash photo very interesting that it appears the car is missing lots of parts. No emblem on the fender, front bumper ?, windows down, seats ?, rear quarter window appears missing, no door handle or lock, no gas door lock, missing rear bumper, and the rear hatch glass appears missing. I understand the quarter vents covered by crash markers. Would some of these parts installed help the crash worthyness? Sad to see it in that condition. Bonzi Lon

I don't care for a bra either, but will find one before the trip to Branson and Nashville. Bug juice is hard to remove once dried, a screen will go in front of the radiator also. Both will be removed before judging. Bonzi Lon

Yep, #110 also has those shapely legs. Bonzi Lon

Sure, all of mine are original except the hatch gaskets. Really wanted to use them but the fumes were making me very sick, several times. Bonzi Lon

I tried it and it won't work unless you use the 280 struts. The single 240 struts have more pressure in them than the 280, maybe twice as much. I didn't realize that until I had everything welded in and all set. Put 2-240Z struts on and could barely close it because of the pressure. When opening it shot up so fast my nose could feel the breeze. Also, if the body brackets are not perfect, say 1/4 inch to far to the rear of the hatch, the hatch will tend to buckle up, breaking the seal and allowing exhaust gasses to enter. I think that is why most 240's have the left corner up a bit more than the passenger, that one strut is powerful. Putting the plastic piece in without the cutout made it bulge out. Removed everything and made sure the original body bracket was properly welded in. If I had the 260-280 struts it might of worked, but I had several 240 struts on hand and a spare body bracket and made a plate with capture nuts for the hatch part. The reason for trying this in the first place was the body bracket spot welds had broken years earlier. I have heard from others that their '73' body brackets had come unwelded also, most were of high VIN like mine. Bonzi Lon

Mine went MIA over the 25+ years of being apart. I found some at the local hardware store but the head was larger and longer overall. When I bought a set of tail hooks they came with the bolts. They are 14mm head, 10mm dia., 1.25 pitch and 32mm long overall, just enough to get the back 3mm exposed and rusty. Bonzi Lon

They must be fragile because #110 is missing both of them, the holes are there though. Bonzi Lon

As a suggestion, you might drive it around for a while without putting in the rear part of the interior, checking for gas fumes or exhaust fumes. Leave the windows up and put fuel in it and check of raw gas fumes. Driving around with windows up then down for a while in all directions will reveal any exhaust fumes you might be getting. My interion has been in and out several times untill I finally got it all sealed up. I can smell new carpet now. Bonzi Lon

Yes, it is a very nice interior and color. Don't tell your son, but this car will hold 3 chicks and the driver. Tested and confirmed. The smallest one we folded up and put in the hatch area. Crazy college days. Bonzi Lon

I bought the WIX filter on the advice here for about $12.50 at my local parts house. When online ordering parts from Courtsey I noticed the genuine blue Nissan filters offered for $6.12 each, ordered 4. Bonzi Lon

During refurbishment the cooling system had been dry for years. Original rad, new cap, unknown thermostat. Added water and ran for 200 miles, temp needle at 'M' in temp, sometimes slightly higher into the 'P'. Drained, muddy looking, refilled with water, ran to 1k miles, still 'M to P', radiator sprung a leak 3 blocks from the driveway, rusty water all over the bay. :mad: Took it to the shop, repaired leak, flushed out, pressure tested. He said it was full of mud, rust really. Put it back in with anti-freeze for 4k more miles and the needle is always on 'E' in temp. It got to the right of 'E' when driving hard. Drove it to a car show yesterday 150 miles round trip, never over the 'E'. There are several meat thermometers in the drawer, I'll find out for sure. Bonzi Lon

GreenZZZ, you read my mind. Took the entire back end out it and 'used glue' this time on the new tail light gaskets, sealed every posssible entry point I could find. WingZr0, figured you would, if asked. Someday hope to have a perfect system, you will be notified. If anyone shows genuine interest in the Z-car for some time, I do give them a ride. What they get out of it makes the legend go on. Bonzi Lon

Last Friday and Saturday was the exhaust system. Sunday was enjoying it. Monday morning is the first photo, Tuesday night is the next, sunshine would of helped. Wednesday was tuning and experiencing way more tourque and hp! Thursday the entire evaporative system was repaired, the larger fuel rated hoses were found at the John Deere dealership, 300psi Friday was wash, dry, wax on wax off, polish & detail. Today is my first car show of the season McPherson College, the USA's only accredited 4 year course in automobile restoration. Bonzi Lon

The key has always been able to be removed in the off position, the buzzer never worked in the 3 years I drove it, never knew it had one. Flash forward 26+ years, put a battery in it and all the buzzers are going off. Didn't take long to find and disconnect. Bonzi Lon

Need to add another $50 to the exhaust system bill for replacing the rear hatch gasket. Yes, I considered that 37 year old gasket part of the exhaust system. Bonzi Lon

The resonator and muffer were off the shelf no name white box generics. Price drops fast without a Nationaly advertised name brand. The resonator is 14" long, about 3" dia. The old system did not have a resonator. The muffer case is 12" long, 6" round, center in & out. Chrome extender is 9" rolled lip. The tube was crush bent. He wanted to do it in 1 piece but had to splice it to get the muffler square. I'm with Arne too, if and when I do get a good set of headers, coated satin black, I'd like to go with stainless & flanges all tucked nice, everything square and straight, Ansa's with a blue tip . You know, in a perfect world. GreenZZZ, that hitch came with the car and was put to use moving me home from college pulling a small enclosed U-Haul. The whole episode was an experience, from letting U-Haul wire the lights to pulling in the driveway. Mine did not experience any damage but can see how if TOO much weight was pulled TOO many times could put a V in the bumper, buckle the spare tire well & other bad things. I really wanted to put mine back on after refurbishment, for a conversation piece with a 1.5" ball. Both the hitch and car fought me trying to put it back on. After smashing a finger I realized the car did NOT want to wear that hitch anymore :mad: but I left the bracket. Bonzi Lon

AZ-240z is correct. I have the Nissan box on the table. I ordered 2 from Courtesy and got 1, need to reorder. Bonzi Lon

Simple. Purchased in 77, driven in 1 snow, Paris, TX no salt, parked in dry KS garage in 80, refurbished and on the road in 08, 1 sprinkle of rain in 09, first since 80. Keep em dry. Bonzi Lon

How loud is loud? Its subjective. It does have a nice soft, low rumble at idle, it does make you wonder whats under the hood. I have a brand new pair of Paltec SU carbs, cam 13001-N3626 .434" 256, into pacesetter 6-2-1, then what they installed. The dreaded drone is gone. Just as important, the sloppy first install. When it gets to about 2200rpm is when it starts to sounding nice. A steady 3000 to 3500 in 4th at about 70-80 is smile time. Running through the gears in an agressive manner makes the sound of a true sports car that I remember hearing on TV in the 70's, mostly Farrari's. Bonzi Lon

Mine is the only 240Z on the road in the entire county, none in hiding that I know of. Since it has been refurbished after a long sleep, stories and rumors have been going around about it and the Z cars that have come and gone in this tiny town. The most infamous one was the first one, an orange 70 bought in April as a HS graduation present for Lynn, the rich spoiled kid. He gave that car hell and it took it! He even used it in the pasture to round up cattle! Several times! Took it to drag races! Burned up tires doing doughnuts and power-braking! People in this town STILL remember that car. Muffler shop owner told me his stories about it when mine went in. The other 2 were brothers that were Doctors. One was orange the other was lime, (cars, not Dr's) both 71's. Both were driven daily for about 5 years then both traded off at the same time. There were several other 240's but all were gone or off the road by the early to mid 80's, IIRC. I sometimes get asked if it is for sale. For fun I usually say, 'sure, if its enough. Start putting money on the table, I'll tell you when to quit.' Bonzi Lon