Bonzi Lon

My 73 off-white panels were in storage for 26 years. The majority of the chrome 'foil' had peeled off from back to front, leaving about 3 inches. The blue plastic was a pleasent surprise. It makes for a nice accent to a blue car. However, I understand the ones that want a solution, I sure would if it didn't match. Has anyone tried the 'newer' chrome sprays to cover the strips? Bonzi Lon

Get one of them running by spring and join us at the Branson Z-Fest, end of May first of June. Lots of Z cars and fun. This pic shows half of the car show. Bonzi Lon

Blue would be pretty. This is real close to 115 blue metalic, and Datona Blue. Bonzi Lon

Now, thats a hot rod! ^^ KID-K, you can make it any color you want, it is your car. I wanted you to know I like it, and it 'could' be a rare color combo, as with the 240Z. As 240K&Beyond mentioned, white / off white is a nice combo also. That would soften the beautiful Calsonic Blue. You can see I am partial by my signature. Bonzi Lon

The 2 sets I have are 26 1/2 inches, top to bottom. Bonzi Lon

Thanks, Michael. It was just a sales ploy you don't often see in the automotive business. 'Buy a rear louvre and get 2 free mirrors.' Nice. Bonzi Lon

This is my Zinc of choice. Saw it in the Hagerty magazine. It was used more as a safety precaution than anything else, just in case. Way cheaper per dose as another popular product. About $3.50 compared to $40. http://www.cam-shield.com/ Bonzi Lon

They have those hand held laser thermometers fairly cheap now. Works great in finding hot or cold spots all across the engine. Got my T&D set for $12 at Harbor Freight, paid for itself 3 times over first time I used it. Bonzi Lon

Did anyone else notice in the Datsun ad for the rear louvre, last line. "Comes with right and left side racing mirror kit." Wonder what they looked like? Bonzi Lon

FastWoman: I see the 'bow' in one photo. The NIB one is straight. It has never been installed. I failed to mention that HLS30-00110 has one on from pre 76, the bottom one is straight across, all rubber pads are in place also, the new one has rubber nibs, smaller and pointier than the pads, to protect the glass. My only thought would be a different maker. The one on #110 has a sticker "Mullholland Interpart", the one in the box is "Interpart LiftLouvre" purchased 8-80. Both mount under the weatherstrip. Bonzi Lon

That metal and plastic is your horn. Pop the horn button off, down at the bottom will be a screw holding the other broken part, (hopefully). It can be glued, I used super glue. If it needs to be adjusted to operate, the metal tang can be bent, but is very springy. The end of the brass tang needs to ride on the brass ring, but not too tight as to wear it out. Bonzi Lon

Mine are not worn out but did set for over a quarter century. They did moan, creak and grind untill they were lubed first with 30wt oil, then wheel bearing greese, worked in, and most excess removed. Smooth as can be now. Bonzi Lon

You snagged a nice one, and the color is perfect. I've always liked these cars, even half a world away. It seems you don't care much for the blue interior. Some research may help you decide to keep it that color or not. If they are like the 240Z, the blue / blue combo is the rarest of the color combos for the 240Z, maybe so for the 240K as well. A well done 240Z in either 115 or 908 exterior and blue interior is a thing of beauty. (to me anyway) The Calsonic blue looks close to both of the other colors, same with the interior color. The rareity factor could mean 2 things, hard to find and expensive if you do find them. Good Luck and Congratulations, Bonzi Lon

And the box they came in. Bonzi Lon

You might want to replace the chalk mark, which could wash off, with 'Liquid Paper' or a silver 'Sharpie'. A tip from the forums. Fingernail polish too. Bonzi Lon

I have 9 that I will part with. Send a PM if interested. Bonzi Lon

There should be a 1" dia. double ring (split ring, key chain type) on the chain to the hole in the inside of the filler ring. Filler ring may need to be removed to install, place ring with chain at the bottom. Bonzi Lon

Glad you got it figured out. I was stumped too, so had to compare with #110 and a box of parts. Yep, those clips are tight, don't want that boot coming off during power shifts. Bonzi Lon

Guy, I went through the same thing, its a jig-saw puzzle. Start at the firewall and work forward. I was lucky and had several sets of older linkage parts to choose from. The 73 had a different ballance tube, shorter throttle rod, thus the spacers behind the bracket. The bell crank (that goes over the post welded to the firewall) has several different variations, the two arms are welded at different angles, therefore different lengths of that rod. The rod can be cut and welded to length, same with changing the angle of the arms on the bell crank, to keep from over-caming. There was a thread about it. My over-caming problem was (is) caused by thinner carb spacers & studs. It was cured by bending the shorter rod. It will soon be repaired properly. Bonzi Lon

Pete Brock 'looked' at my blue 73. Would that count? Bonzi Lon

It said 'Flagged for Removal' for me. Bonzi Lon

Just saw this in the Oklahoma City craigslist. http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/pts/2034072644.html Bonzi Lon

"Well now. There's your problem!" Adam Savage, Mythbusters Bonzi Lon

Nice yard ornament if you can get it there. In Kansas we would mount it on a pole and use it as a wind chime. Bonzi Lon

I agree with Ken on the 4' flouresent lights down low. Mine were 2 bulb adjustable on a stand, a pair of them. They will come in real handy when doing the final cut & buff. For some reason I was able to see better & get better results by doing the cut & buff at night, keeping the light consistant. The extra ambient light during the day made it difficult for me to see the proper reflection. My biggest fear was buffing down to the paint, which never happened, but a few edges are thin. Good luck. FYI: I did not bc/cc the car, just cut & buff. Bonzi Lon