jcdozier

In addition to EScanlon's response, I have had a couple of direct responses as well. One suggests a problem between the positive connector on the coil and the tachometer, the other suggests the diode in the tach is shot. This is a warmer-weather problem, but I will post the fix when I get it done. Thanks for the input.

I also agree with 2MANYZS. Since you're already painting exposed undersurfaces with POR-15, why not continue on to the fender wells too? The only rust my 1971 240-Z has ever had has been in the fender-well area. (Just a personal preference, but I think black looks good in the fender well.) JIM DOZIER

My Type-I 240 is still the original "gold" - often referred to as "mustard". Not what I would have chosen had I bought it new, but after a few years I have come to like it. My boys still laugh and say it looks the color of something found in a baby's diaper, but they don't get to drive it. JIM DOZIER

The tachometer on my 240-Z maxes out (i.e., 8000 RPM) when the ignition is turned on. Reads zero when ignition switch is in the "off" or the "acc" position. I suspect a grounding problem, but haven't yet begun the search (it's mid-forties and windy here today). Whilst I wait for a warmer day, has anyone had (and fixed) this problem? BTW, the car has a Mallory electronic ignition - has been working well for months. JIM DOZIER

In his ZTherapy video-tape, Scott Bruning offers a simple, no-tools method of setting the needle "height". Insert the needle with "excessive" shoulder exposed and tighten the set screw just enough to hold it in place. Put the piston in place and press down until it bottoms out - the needle will bottom out and slide up in the piston to the "correct" position. Carefully remove the piston and tighten the set screw. I use this method with my SU's and the car runs great.