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Re: the strut lock nuts - if I remember right, these are the cone shaped nyloc style lock nuts.

I couldn't tell if they were noticeably loose. I replaced my old 280z insulators with 240z shorter ones with the zpartsdepot's adapters. I used 60 ft lbs to torque them. I had to use my breaker bar wedged between the insulators' studs to hold them to apply the torque. I don't remember myself doing this 10 years ago lol - it is possible I didn't follow the FSM's torque specs to the letter.

Now I have to tackle another project - there is some oil seepage around my oil pan/possibly rear main seal. I might have to drop the transmission, replace its seals/gasket as well. Really not looking forward to it.



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46 minutes ago, darom said:

I used 60 ft lbs to torque them. I had to use my breaker bar wedged between the insulators' studs to hold them to apply the torque.

You can do final torque to the center nut after installation of the strut assy on the car. That way, the three insulator studs are held firm by the car body and you can get a good torque on the enter nut.

So keep an eye (or ear) on it and if the clunk develops again, it's quick and easy to snug those center nuts while on the car. If if happens again and torquing those nuts takes care of the issue, it might be time to get some new vibration resistant center nuts. Replacing those nuts is easy with the car on the ground... The weight of the car will keep the springs compressed and you can take that center nut completely off and replace it. Buzz one off, buzz new one on. Easy peasy.

Thanks, this car is a never ending story lol. Now I am hearing what sounds like my speedo cable in the front making buzzing noises which increase and decrease with RPMs :-) I must have bumped it when I was attaching the master cylinder's rod to my clutch pedal.

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