Jump to content


cam sprocket--need help NOW!


Recommended Posts

hey guys, i got the cam timing thing figured out. looks like i was a tooth back on cam timing. so now the thing seems to run half way decent but for some reason the fuel pump eccentric is hitting the valve cover. i'm wondering if i put the sprocket on backwards. it seemed to be the only way to make sense to me but maybe i'm wrong. the way it is now, the shoulder is facing forward. there doesn't appear to be enough clearance for it to be turned around but since i didn't pay adequate attention, like i should have, during disassembly i don't know:o need help here, please!

also, i don't know if this is related but it also seems as though the cam cover is hitting something on the back when i reinstall it. i've checked that all the cam towers are fully seated and inspected the cover for signs of contact but came up with nothing. still, when i put the cover on and just lay it in place, there seems to be a 1/8" gap between the cover and head sealing surface. any thoughts on that as well?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1) Be sure you haven't pulled the cam forward in the bearings.

It can be moved forward and backward alittle. Look down from above and see if you can see any shinny areas. Move the cam with a push or pull by hand to cover any shinny areas. This is probably not the problem but look anyway.

2) when looking at the cam sprocket face that faces forward (toward the radiator) the 3 dowel holes are marked 1 , 2 & 3. You should be located on the one marked 1. If you can read the #'s from in front of the engine then it's on right.

3) Check to see if the valve cover is hitting the cam-oiler tube , not allowing it to sit all the way down. - Newer valve covers do not fit on heads with the external oiler rail.

Hope I helped.

- Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks, jeff. all information is good information. i don't remember seeing any numbers on the sprocket. the one thing i do remember is there are three notches on the ring. they are facing out, toward the front of the engine. i don't know if this is right or not but seemed to make sense as i think that raised hub would hit the plate if it were turned around. i also thought i saw a distinct line on the sprocket where the varnish staining had stopped where it's bolted to the sprocket (i dont' know if i'm making any sense here). additionally, since nothing was really replaced except the bad valve and related gaskets, alot of the internals are still as they came apart. this gave me some hint as to which location to use for the dowel. there are two dark varnish spots that correspond to the holes in the sprocket. i've just made sure the sprocket holes line up with the varnish stains to make sure the cam is timed correctly with the sprocket. that only works if i have the sprocket on correctly.

thanks for your help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

clutchdust - Those notches you mentioned ..... belong on the cam side not the bolt side. The notch corisponding with the dowel used will line up with the mark on the cam retaining plate. When the cam to crank timing is correct 3 items will be lined up.

1) The 'bright' link on the chain will be in line with the 'one' dot on the cam sprocket.

2) The other 'bright' link on the chain will be in line with the dot on the crank sprocket.

3) The notch on the cam sprocket will be lined up with the mark on the cam retaining plate.

To see the notch on the cam sprocket you need to look through one of the four elongated holes then you can line it up with the mark on the cam retainer plate. The mark on the plate is at about 11:00 o'clock - the bright link will be lined up at somewhere between 2 & 3 o'clock for the cam - at 3 o'clock for the crank.

The engine reassembly section of my manual explained the proceedure very clearly.

- Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ahhhh. so i do have tha sprocket on backwards. i was wondering about that.

the other thing is i never removed the lower cover so i couldn't see the crank sprocket at all. i started out in the hole, although it would have been nice if i had timed the motor before just tearing things out.

one other thing. i never saw any obviously 'bright' links in the chain. there were several that appeared to be cleaner than the others but i'm unsure if these are the ones others were mentioning or what.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.