1977 280Z Voltage gauge "Always On?"

[sblake01]

Does this setup work with the upgraded '82 model alternator?

I don't see why not. Although the 77 is externally regulated and 78 in intenally regulated the fusible link setup is the same for those two years. I use 78 as an example becaue I know the 78. I don't know how the ZXs links are setup but the 78 and the 82 (non turbo) both use the same LR160 alternator.

[Zed Head]

The aren't wires per se. They are fusible links. The front box should have an 80 amp link closest to the fender and the other three are 50 amp as in this picture from the Alantic Z site.

I almost hate to get involved in the fusible link discussion but it seems to me that the "red = 50 amp link" data that is on the Atlanticz site is incorrect. Everything that I have seen in the FSM (the wire gauge information, from smallest to thickest), the labels on the actual fusible link holder in the car (Br matches Br in the FSM), and on the Nissan representative's own web site (Courtesy Nissan) suggest that "red = ~30 amps."

I have not seen the atlanticz page data verified anywhere else.

Edit - I also just noticed, on the atlanticz page, that it calls out red as 0.69 mm^2. This might well be a 50 amp link. But it's not the red that Courtesy sells, and it's not the Br that the FSM calls out. Also on the page, it is suggested that Br (Brown, page BE-2) is actually BR (black with red stripe). More confusion. "Pink" is called out as 30 amp.

From the Courtesy Nissan web page -

Black = 1.25 mm^2

Green = 0.5 mm^2

Red = 0.3 mm^2

The attached image is from the 1976 FSM showing that the numbers are the same as the FSM but what was Brown is now red.

Also attached is a picture from the fusible link holder on my 1976 car. B (black) for accessory, Br (brown) one for ignition and one for headlights, and G (green) for ignition.

The Courtesy Nissan page for reference - http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_search_result.php?chassis_id=59&keywords=link&Submit_Button=Go&cat=1

So, on the atlanticz page, either green is not 40 or red is not 50. Or Courtesy Nissan is selling the wrong gauge fusible link wire.

Thanks for listening. I know that this has been beat to death over time, but these logic errors just bug me.

Edited February 16, 2011 by Zed Head

[FastWoman]

SteveJ, FAIW, not all ammeter systems route the current through the ammeter. For instance, my '66 Mustang had a very creative ammeter system, in which a galvanometer was used to indicate voltage drop across an approx. 3 ft length of heavy wire. It lacked for accuracy and, in fact, was defunct in my car. (I never repaired it.)

I've suggested to some people on this list who were upgrading the alternator wiring in their 240 that they could run a heavier line from the alt to a shunt to a fusible link to the battery, all beneath the hood. Then they could run two small-gauge wires off of the two sides of the shunt and to the ammeter, whose shunt had been removed. I further suggested that they could drill a hole in the middle of the shunt, attaching the wires to the middle and one end, to cut the shunt resistance in half and therefore reduce the full-scale sensitivity of the ammeter by roughly half. So ammeters don't need to be quite as clunky as they're currently wired.

I'm with you, FAIW. I'd like to have both. However, of the two, a voltmeter seems to do me more good.

Edited February 17, 2011 by FastWoman

[sblake01]

I have problem in diverter valve of fuel pump any suggestion??

You're gonna' need some pliers, and a set of 30 weight ball bearings (it's all ball bearing nowadays) And you're gonna' need about 10 quarts of antifreeze, preferably Prestone. No, make that Quaker State.:stupid::stupid:

[FastWoman]

You're gonna' need some pliers, and a set of 30 weight ball bearings (it's all ball bearing nowadays) And you're gonna' need about 10 quarts of antifreeze, preferably Prestone. No, make that Quaker State.:stupid::stupid:

Hannah, I think what Steve is saying is that you should first search the archives for an answer and, if still clueless, post a question in a new thread.

FAIW, I'm not sure what you mean by a "diverter valve." On the fuel injection style pumps there's an internal bypass valve and an external check valve. I don't know the anatomy of the pumps for carbureted models. Anyway you might search for either of those terms. Obviously when you do post, it would help greatly if you could tell us a bit about your car, as there's a world of difference between a 240Z and a 280Z, and there are even important differences between the years.

Anyway, welcome to the forum!

[sblake01]

No, actually I'm thinking that the poster is a 'bot/troll. Just thought I'd throw in the Chevy Chase quote..