Ok so, to make sure that I have got this all straight, what do I do with wires when upgrading to a ZX dizzy with the E12-80 module on my 240z?

I have a print out that is telling me to

Ignition Box pin "B" to Postitive (+)

Ignition Box pin "C" to Negative (-)

Then remove and connect the B/W and G/W wires from the ballast resistor.

Is this the right stuff? Any more or any less to do? Over at the Z garage it doesnt even say anything about messing with the ballast resistor so I am not all sure what and what not to do.

That pretty much covers it. The resistor by-pass is technically optional, but doing that will allow hotter spark. I hooked the single wire that went to the points dizzy to the "C" terminal, and ran a new wire from the (+) terminal of the coil to the "B" terminal on the module. Or you could run a new wire from the (-) terminal of the coil to the "C" terminal, whichever way works best for you.

Ok cool, thanks.

Does the hotter spark make much of a difference in terms of say cooling? I am still stuck on the old 2-Row which will be another month or so till I upgrade to a 4-Row.

Also, the Dizzy came with two sets of wires. One for the module (B and C), but then the other wire was for a pin slot on the dizzy itself on the other side of the dizzy compared to the module. Not sure what it is, but do I need to worry about that or no?

Thanks for your help. Need to get some kind of gasket sealant tomorrow and that sucker should be finished.

Sorry, I just doubled checked and the other pin connector on the dizzy isn't on the opposite side of the module, but it is about at a 90 degree angle from the module. The pin is right beside the vaccum canister thing. (What the vaccum hose goes into)

Red-Dawg,

I have a link to the Atlantic Z dist swap.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

The wiring dia. at the bottom has the 240 to ZX swap.

I don't know how to cut out the bottom portion for you, however if you scroll to the bottom it is there.

Tuck \o/