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Besides the washer fluid pump, what else gets power on the drivers side?


ktm

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I have two pairs of leads by the brake booster. One set is for the washer fluid pump, but I have no idea what the second set is for. I personally removed the tank for now and disconnected the first pair of wires, but I am trying to find out what the second set is for.

Any idea?

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I'm not aware of another pair of wires. There is a single wire that goes to the "brake line pressure differential warning switch". This causes the red lamp that you normally only see with the parking brake on to illuminate. It indicates a difference in pressure between the front and rear brake systems. You'll sometimes see it trigger when the brake fluid is low.

The wire has a bullet connector and plugs in to the switch which is mounted on the inner fender about 6 inches below the master cylinder. Look between the front master cylinder reservoir cap and the air cleaner. The top center connector is where the wire plugs in. All of the other lines going to that unit are hydraulic brake lines.

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What about the wires to the coil (blk/wht) and dizzy (blk), or the original ballast resistor (grn/wht & blk/wht)? they shouldn't stretch quite as far back as the MC but they do terminate on the driver's side.
True, but they come from the other direction. The ignition wires come from the harness after it crosses under the radiator. The wires for the washer pump and brake warning light come across the firewall.
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I actually have another pair of wires running over there in addition to the brake warning light wire (whichs is still connected) and the washer pump wires.

Can you post a picture? I'm wondering if it's for something aftermarket like an alarm system. I don't think it's stock at this point.

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I actually have another pair of wires running over there in addition to the brake warning light wire (whichs is still connected) and the washer pump wires.
Is or was your car by chance an automatic? I just remembered that there are a pair of wires that run down into the tunnel on automatics that connect to the kickdown switch (or whatever that switch is) on the transmission. When I converted my yellow car to a four speed, I tucked those two wires up along the harness and they ended right behind the washer tank.
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I'll post a picture tonight.

Arne, I have no idea if my car was an automatic as I bought it with a 4-speed.

MikeW, given the state of the wires and the connectors on the end, I am led to believe that the wires are stock. The previous owners that messed around with the harnesses did not care about neatly wrapping the wires in electrical tape or using connectors. I spent a little time last night remove poor, exposed splices and re-splicing with butt-connectors and re-taping.

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It's not clear from your description but I assume that you're trying to figure out the two wires that enter from the right center and end on top of the fender. The other wires shown resting on the master cylinder cap match what I expect. The Black and Black/Yellow wires clearly are for the washer pump and the third wire is already connected to the previously mentioned brake switch. On my car (also 1972) those three wires are included in a single harness that comes through the firewall beneath the battery (along with other wires) and runs up and across the firewall at the very top near the hood.

What's not obvious to me from your description or photo is where the other two wires are coming from. Are they part of the same harness as the others? Also, what colors are the wires themselves? That should give us a clue.

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I just checked. The two wires on top of the fender come from the same harness as those for the washer pump. The wires have bullet style connectors and are black. No other markings. I stripped 2 inches of the outter coating to expose as much of the wire cover as I could and they both still showed black.

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Interesting. I don't see anything in the factory service manual wiring diagram for 1972 that shows two black wires going to anything. Certainly not in that area of the car. How long are these two wires from where they split out of the harness? Is there any electrical component in the car that's not working?

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I'm still leaning towards the possibility that either the car was originally an automatic, or that the engine wiring harness is from an automatic car. The wires look just like the pair of back wires with bullet connectors that my automatic car has, and I note in the picture that the metal clutch fluid line looks hand-bent, not like a factory line.

Does your car have the rectangular clutch stop on the firewall as pictured?

post-8596-14150798762023_thumb.jpg

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Mike, which is why I am here. :) I have scoured my FSM and Haynes wiring diagrams to no avail. They split out from the harness approxmately 24-inches back from the connectors. All electrical components work save for the clock (go figure) and the dome light.

Arne, yes, I do have the rectangular clutch stop on the firewall.

Edit: In the end if they are not required for anything that is fine. I just want to make sure that I am not missing a component in the car. I am trying to refurbish (not so much restore) the car and would like to replace missing components, like my inspection lamps.

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Arne, I double checked near the ignition coil - no unused wires. However, there were two unused black wires with female plate connectors that were taped up to the coolant temperature sensor. These wires have the wrong connectors and are not long enough to reach the other unused black wires with the female bullet connectors.

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I know you decided to put this to rest but I just quizzed the local Z car expert on this and he thinks that it was indeed for an automatic just as Arne theorized. The two wires in question actually go down to the transmission itself - not to any accessory in the engine compartment; I'm guessing that this is for the starter inhibitor switch (can't start the car unless you're in park). That would explain the two feet or so length; they were probably hanging down after the tranny swap and the PO just moved them over with the other wires in the harness to get them out of the way. The bullet connectors are similar to the wires to the reverse lamp switch on my car.

He says that even automatics came with the clutch stop - it just wasn't needed. He also said that one practically guaranteed way to check if the car was an automatic is to look for the kick down switch at the top of the accelerator pedal arm since people making the switch would be unlikely to bother removing that.

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Take all of this with a grain of salt, as your 'local Z car expert' is only partly correct, at least concerning 71's.

The two wires mentioned in this thread do appear to be similar to a pair that run down to the left side of an automatic transmission. If that was really what they were, they would have been for the kick-down modulator, not the starter interlock, which is located on the right side of the transmission.

The reason this theory doesn't wash is that that pair of wires was not the only additional wires in the automatic harness. There would also need to be the extra pair in the right side of the tunnel mentioned above, plus there is an additional relay with several extra wires on the inner fender under the coil. Without those as well, I don't see how that car or harness could have been an automatic.

Additionally, some automatics did NOT come with the clutch stop - my yellow car, for example. So that statement is not always true. The comment about the switch mount above the throttle is probably correct, however.

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