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Front Passenger Hub is Binding - Help


ktm

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I am in the final throws of re-assembling my front suspension. Everything is on save for the front passenger hub. When I initially seat the hub on the spindle, it will rotate freely without a sound. However, when I fully seat the hub in the correct location, I get a severe grinding noise coming from the back. If I HAND tighten the nut so that the hub has no lateral free play, the hub is very hard to turn and there is an awful grinding noise. At times the hub will completely bind up.

Does the back lip of the hub have a tight clearance with the spindle face? Previous POs have hammered on this lip a bit and it is uneven. Could the deformations on the lip be rubbing/binding against the spindle face? If so, can I just grinding down these deformations?

Thank you.

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Take a Sharpie or a permanent marker and put some ink on the bent part where you think the hub is rubbing. Then put it on and turn it a couple times. If it is scraping there it will rub the ink off.

If that is the problem, yes, you can grind it away. The only issue is that you don't want to get any metal in your bearings, so be careful about that...

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I am prepared to ditch the bearings and rear seal for the reason you just mentioned. They are relatively cheap, it's just the labor involved to remove the seal and clean all the grease.

Thanks for the tip about the Sharpie.

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I might be thinking of the wrong thing here but, don't you tighten the nut to a certain torque then back it off like 1/2-3/4 of a turn? Sorry, I'm going from memory here. The service manual explains it a heck of a lot better. Are we talking about the same nut?

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Almost. You are correct about the nut tightening procedure (I have an FSM as well), but my hub is rubbing/grinding before I put the nut on the spindle. If I just HAND tighten the nut, the rotor is VERY hard to turn and there is an awful grinding noise.

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They are brand spanking new as are the following:

Remanufactured calipers

ST Sway Bars

Urethene Bushings

MSA T/C kit

Powerslot Rotors

Tokico HP Shocks and Springs

Ball Joints

Outter Tie Rods

Steering Rack Boot

Pictures:

DriverSide.JPG

DriverSide2.JPG

Bottom.JPG

FrontAssembly.JPG

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As my original post indicated, when the nut is HAND tightened, the hub binds up and there is an awful grinding. I am not talking about grit in a bearing grinding, I am talking about two oceanic liners colliding grinding. Sometimes I can not even turn the hub with the nut hand tightened.

I am replacing the bearings tomorrow as well as trying jmortensen's tip about checking the back of the hub.

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I just went outside and did jmortensen's trick - nada, though I may have marked the wrong area. Since the back of the hub slips over the back of the spindle (right behind the rear seal), I may have a 'lip' that is grinding instead of the back face.

When I attempted to pull the hub off, the bearing stayed behind along with the rear seal. I was able to give it a slight tap and it popped off. I checked the bearing play and there was no grinding, same goes for the outside smaller bearing.

Back when I first bought the car, it pulled to the left. I thought I had a sticky caliper as I heard grinding (and it was hard to spin) when I manually turned the wheel. Looks like I found the true culprit, but on the other side (most likely due to switching the hubs).

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Well if all else fails I have two sets of 240Z hubs that I put up on ebay and never sold just hanging around, one with stock studs and a bend in the back, but not enough to grind or see when its installed, and another set with long studs. PM me if you're interested. Say $25 for either set...

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Thank you for the offer Jon. I am going to give it one more try tomorrow and if I can not get it to go, I'll probably take you up on your offer. I'll drop you a PM either way.

Again, thank you.

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shot in the dark here, but did you receive the correct rotors?

the first set i got from the parts store mistakenly turned out to be for a 280z. there was a definite height difference (1/4-1/2" IIRC) from rotor face to hub which could account for the heavy grinding.

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Good thought Bart. I have had that happen also.

Check the bearing races, bearing and seals to make sure they are COMPLETELY seated. I replaced my bearing recently and thought I had everything well seated. Drove the car a few miles and started hearing some noises from the front. I had to re-torque the bearings quite a bit once they fully seated.

Marty

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Both boxes were marked with the correct part number. Also, the back of the hub does slightly protrude from the back face of the rotor. My dust shields are freshly painted. Any grinding on the dust shield would be immediately evident. Furthermore, the driver's side does not bind or grind at all, which leads me to believe that it is hub related.

I had a thought last night that my race may not be seated correctly. I had a shop seat the races after pulling my shocks out. I say this now as a result of my observation late last night. When the bearing stuck to the spindle, it appeared to be kilted. This would explain the binding, but I do not know if it would cause the horrendous grinding I was hearing.

Thank you everyone for all of your suggestions. This is driving me crazy. The car has been non-op since July because I am taking me time and thoroughly cleaning, repair/replacing, and stripping/preping/painting everything (to include the Ziebart undercoating). I am soooooo close to getting the front done and now this.

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Both boxes were marked with the correct part number. Also, the back of the hub does slightly protrude from the back face of the rotor. My dust shields are freshly painted. Any grinding on the dust shield would be immediately evident. Furthermore, the driver's side does not bind or grind at all, which leads me to believe that it is hub related.

I had a thought last night that my race may not be seated correctly. I had a shop seat the races after pulling my shocks out. I say this now as a result of my observation late last night. When the bearing stuck to the spindle, it appeared to be kilted. This would explain the binding, but I do not know if it would cause the horrendous grinding I was hearing.

Thank you everyone for all of your suggestions. This is driving me crazy. The car has been non-op since July because I am taking me time and thoroughly cleaning, repair/replacing, and stripping/preping/painting everything (to include the Ziebart undercoating). I am soooooo close to getting the front done and now this.

Don't trust the boxes!!! The rotor I got was the correct box, with the wrong part inside. Check it against the other rotor or the old one. You could even swap it over to the other side and see if it is a problem there.

But, if the race is kilted, that sounds like your problem. Carefully tap that race down completely and reassemble it.

Marty

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Problem solved. The race was not seated properly. I should have double-checked the shop's work. The race was 1/16-in. off.

New race, new bearing, new seal and she spins freely without a sound.

Thank you for all the help.

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