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hand glaze/wax


Mat M

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Someone recently posted a link to a car-care website that I took to heart. My car had a bad case of oxidation after being banished to the PO's side yard since 1992. I decided to purchase the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze and 3M Perfect-it Show Car Liquid Wax.

The first pic is right after the hand glaze was buffed out, with the hood down. The second photo is of the hood down, from a slightly different angle, after the wax.

The third is with the hood up, after the glaze, and last pic is hood up after the wax.

I think this is money well spent, shining up a single stage (no clear coat) finish that is older than I am!!

I can't wait to drive her to work this coming week! It's supposed to be sunny all week!!!

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O.K, so I'm probably preaching to the already converted and trying to teach lizards how to suck eggs but;

The bloke who did the paint job on my car explained to me that, even on a good surface, "Polish" should never be used as every application removes paint.

He explained that, when looked at under a microscope, paint is not smooth but dimpled. Each aplication of "Polish" removes paint from the top of each dimple, whereas a good wax fills in the "valleys", giving the paint a smoother, longer lasting finish.

For what it's worth,

Rick.

:devious: :devious:

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I read the same thing that Rick stated on the website, I think it was http://www.carcareonline.com/viewarticle.aspx?art=5

I thought about using polish after the glaze, before the wax, but the guy at the autobody finish place where I bought the stuff told me that the glaze is just a bit more abrasive than the polish, and would strip the grime, wax, bird stuff, whatever, easier than the polish would. And then the wax would fill in the low spots.

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Polish does do that, its why you dont do it all the time, just to help, I use it once a year, then a good carnuba wax and finish with this new cream I found at a Dupont store for finishing, this stuff, though it looks like something you would buy at a flea marker really makes the car shine!

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