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Idles, But Sputters & Stalls @ Slight Throttle-up


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Beandip,

Thanks on all points. It is a "new" (year old) Mallory dual point. It is also a cintrif. advance. I did however substitute the original dist. a couple of weeks back with no success...RATS! :disappoin :disappoin

Your thoughts are making me consider your direction relating to wiring at, and inside that bad boy. - Thanks!

Cremmenga, sorry for all your frustration.

I once had a similar prob. related to Carb. damper oil. Try ATF unless 30 wt. has been good for you. Also make dead sure that those "Mouths" open and close with out imparment. Remove the damper caps, and with your finger just lift them and release them. They should fall easily and completely.

Also, atop the "vaccumm bar"?, there is (or used to be in my case) a small round shaped thing that is emloyed by "other" unnessisary) air related gagets to do other things. well one of its effects controlled how quickly (almost damper like)the carbs resumed proper idle speed.

....Some'em just "happened" to mine... I "lost" it sort of...

Well all for the better! It was good that I "lost it". Oh, if you happen to "lose" yours also- God forbid, plug the hole, I feel that it would have wanted it that way.

Be encouraged, there are alot of us out here with probs. whew!

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Your right I think I already took that part off,, I mean I mean That part fell off or something, must have happened when all of the other smog crap "fell off"!! Oops I really should tighten those bolts!!LOL

I know i'm going to catch hell with the smog pump purist for that one, oh well!

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Hey Beandip!

I'm making progress... I think.

I actually drove the car today! I shouldn't get too excited as the plugs quickly fouled, and left me on the side of the road. :disappoin Anyway, now that It is "running" I may be able to lean-out the carbs a bit. I also have a sticking nozzel on the front carb. (That will certainly make it run rich, huh?) I think the choke bar is the secret to that isn't it?

Lots more to do before she's 100% I'm afraid. By the way what happened was... As I tightened the nut on the outside of the distributor (the one that the condenser, and coil wire go to) the whole screw shaft rotated inside the distributor, and my point lugs came to within 1/8 inchs of the "plate". This allowed idling, but as I required more "fire", it must haved arched to the plate, and grounded my points!

Oh, well... One problem at a time I guess!

Thanks everyone, I'll keep you posted. P.S. to Zedrally, Sorr that I didn't get back to you on the vaccuum advance issue. I probably failed to mention that this mallory is a centrifugal advance model. That is a great suggestion however, Thanks!

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good to hear it, mine to is running better I cleaned and lubed the linkeges and the carbs actually function!!!LOL But i soon had to pulled the radiator to fix some leaks, oh well. but about your distributor i was wondering if i don't have to adjust mine, because the carbs are as lean as i can get them?? what do you think?

Thanks guys

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  • 3 weeks later...

SUCCESS! SUCCESS! SUCCESS!

If I remember correctly, that's what the stooges said if they ever got the job done.

Well guys, The Z's Back! I finally got everything replaced, readjusted and I'm rolling again!

IT WAS A SIMPLE CONDENSER!!! If I had just realized at the start that a bad condenser was the problem, it would have been a $7.00 fix, and it would have been over! Well I didn't, and in my own defense, noone else did either. As a result, I "adjusted a few things"; one of which were the points. An outside mechanic suggested that I reduce the gap to 16 thousands. This overworked 3 different condensers, not to mention 2 sets of points.

Also:

Dare I say it, there is a possible design oversight in attaching the condenser only 1/2 inch or so from the exhaust manifold. It is my opinion that placing it there exposes it to extreem heat especially during the summer months, or at anytime that we are stuck in traffic or at lots of long lights. I believe that I may have stumbled on a way to remmidy that situation. I made a heat shield out of some scrap sheet metal that is held in place by the regular screw that normally attaches the condenser to the distributor body. The net gain comes in two ways: It blocks the heat, and it catches the air coming from the fan. This results in a cooler condenser.

Thanks for yoyr help with this thread. It has been really good to have your input on this. I believe that it may have been "Beandip" or one of you who made me rethink the electrical side of things again.

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SUCCESS! SUCCESS! SUCCESS! :laugh:

If I remember correctly, that's what the stooges said if they ever got the job done.

Well guys, The Z's Back! I finally got everything replaced, readjusted and I'm rolling again!

IT WAS A SIMPLE CONDENSER!!! :stupid: If I had just realized at the start that a bad condenser was the problem, it would have been a $7.00 fix, and it would have been over! Well I didn't, and in my own defense, noone else did either. As a result, I "adjusted a few things"; one of which were the points. An outside mechanic suggested that I reduce the gap to 16 thousands. This overworked 3 different condensers, not to mention 2 sets of points. :stupid:

Also:

Dare I say it, there is a possible design oversight in attaching the condenser only 1/2 inch or so from the exhaust manifold. It is my opinion that placing it there exposes it to extreem heat especially during the summer months, or at anytime that we are stuck in traffic or at lots of long lights. I believe that I may have stumbled on a way to remmidy that situation. I made a heat shield out of some scrap sheet metal that is held in place by the regular screw that normally attaches the condenser to the distributor body. The net gain comes in two ways: It blocks the heat, and it catches the air coming from the fan. This results in a cooler condenser. :)

Thanks for yoyr help with this thread. It has been really good to have your input on this. I believe that it may have been "Beandip" or one of you who made me rethink the electrical side of things again.

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